What did you do to your non-G Body project today [2024 edition]
- Thread starter pagrunt
- Start date
I like Cascade. But it may eat the pump, so, if you are going to replace it anyway............
I am still battling that 1950's bathroom. I scored a new handle and escutcheon kit on Fleabay cheaply. But the hot and cold stems were a too short. 😡 So I considered using stem extensions. Ace was the only place that had them long enough. And they were $16 each! Fugeddaboudit. Home Dupa had brand new OEM stems that were the right length. I got both for $20 total. Now to wait on delivery.
we know who the previous 2 owners were (possibly here illegally) and it was obvious how they cared for the truck ("put another patch on 'er!") . in the words of my Mexican co-worker at the auto parts store ...well, I won't repeat it because then I'd be accused of racism, but he knows these types of vehicle owners and says he's not surprised. says they probably just ran straight water thru it when the level dropped.
so now the question is whether to re-install the old radiator, fill it with water and CLR or Evapo-Rust, then circulate and flush? or install the new radiator? (nope, don't want that gunk clogging up my nice new radiator) and do I install the new waterpump before or after the flush? can we safely assume the old water pump is actually circulating fluid?
I imagine the old radiator will need to have a constant dribble of water added to it since it leaks, and since it doesn't have a radiator cap that means I have to add via the overflow tank. my nice brand-new clean overflow tank....
What a PITA....
Technical - Has anyone used Evpo-Rust inside the block cooling passages?
If you have would you say it was successful, & what was your process?? I'm talking a good and and running engine that needs interior cleaning more...
www.jalopyjournal.com
anyone know the correct amount of CLR to add? it's mentioned in the JJ linked thread but not how much. I assume run it 'til it gets warm then shut it off and flush. do it once or multiple times?
I would use the old pump and radiator as mules. My system was very rusty and cruddy. What I did was to remove the thermostat, flush, add the Cascade, let it run until it got nice and hot. Then I let it sit for a while. Then I ran it hot again. Drain, flush, drain, until it stays clear. In my case, the Cascade took a lot of flushes to get all the foamy bubbles out. The radiator then leaked like crazy. Whatever was keeping it tight, the Cascade removed. Looking inside the pump cavity, the cast iron looked brand new. Then I put a new pump on. I had not expected the radiator to leak, so that was a surprise. I got a new aluminum Spectra and the system is clean to this day.
IMPORTANT!! If your heat has been OK, and you do not want to risk ruining the heater core, then you should disconnect the hoses and run them in a circle. Bypass the core and run them right back to the engine. A G-body with no AC is a cinch to swap the core out. But with AC- more work than I care to do.
The heater core in a GMT 800 or 900 is a dash out job. Don't run Cascade or anything else but clean water or 50/50 through that heater core.
If that is just what is immediately visible, gotta wonder what is lurking inside block itself? Almost looks like who ever topped off the coolant used well water or some kind of "hard" water straight from the tap with a lot of dissolved mineral content in it. Which would make sense given what is suspected about who the previous owners might have been. For all anyone knows, they might just have gone to the carwash and used the wand on the rinse cycle to fill the rad; 50 cents and done, and a lot of the washes recycle the water they use by running it through traps and filters to get the large stuff and then re-introducing it back into the water supply.
Nick
Nick
He should have an aluminum block LH6, so I wouldn't lose any sleep over that. I mean, I'm sure it's nasty, but ought to clean up OK.
Which was something I kind of wondered about because the CLR is for delousing cast steel and iron plumbing which ihas gotten rusty or contaminated by mineral or salt deposits Most iron based pipe is fairly tolerant to having its belly scratched by caustics. Aluminum, on the other hand, not so much.
Nick
Nick
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