But how long are we talking? A couple heat cycles surely wouldn't be all that harmful to n aluminum engine?
What did you do to your non-G Body project today [2024 edition]
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But how long are we talking? A couple heat cycles surely wouldn't be all that harmful to n aluminum engine?
yeah, that's my primary concern, what is lurking internally....and we KNOW who the previous owners were...
in case I didn't mention it before , this truck was obviously used on construction sites, specifically, if I'm guessing right based on the crushed caliche mud, dirt, and dust coating everything, including the seats, carpet, dashboard, in the vents, and everything under the hood it was used by the owner in highway construction areas where all that crap is thrown up in the air and coats everything.
With an iron block the CLR ought to be able to do a decent job of rust removal/descaling without too much concern as to base metal being removed in the process. Best all around precaution with CLR is, "READ THE INSTRUCTIONS". I've used the stuff to delouse the water passages and rinse orifices in a toilet bowl; amazing the amount of rust that came out. But, that said, the water itself was cold, straight out of the tank. There were no heat/cold cycles of a cooling system involved and the product was used and flushed in about the space of a half-hour. It did not stand or remain resident in the system for any longer than the directions specified.
I can't speak for Cascade, and I presume that this would be disher washer detergent. Dishes in my house get washed by hand! For a dishwasher to be installed, it would have come out of the ceiling and down on an elevator or dummy lift, which goes a long way to descibing how little room there is in a 50's designed and built galley kitchen. Again though, I think the cautionary factor would be whether the block was aluminum or iron and what the core in the rad is. Cascade is meant to rip week old linguine sauce off pans and plates, that is, stainless steel and glazed/fired dinnerware or porcelain. Is something like that strong enough to derust metal and yet mild enough no to damage the metal surfaces while they are being deloused?
Nick
I can't speak for Cascade, and I presume that this would be disher washer detergent. Dishes in my house get washed by hand! For a dishwasher to be installed, it would have come out of the ceiling and down on an elevator or dummy lift, which goes a long way to descibing how little room there is in a 50's designed and built galley kitchen. Again though, I think the cautionary factor would be whether the block was aluminum or iron and what the core in the rad is. Cascade is meant to rip week old linguine sauce off pans and plates, that is, stainless steel and glazed/fired dinnerware or porcelain. Is something like that strong enough to derust metal and yet mild enough no to damage the metal surfaces while they are being deloused?
Nick
Then do not let ANY cleaner sit too long. Even putting aluminum pots and pans in the dishwasher for extended periods is discouraged. Get it hot, flush well. Then use distilled water mixed with coolant to prevent electrolysis between the iron and aluminum. I go through this on boats all the time. Salt water is an excellent conductor and will eat dissimilar metals to the point of failure. You want your coolant to be as inert as possible. Even on my home steam boiler I adjust the ph to be as close as I can get to 7, which is pure water. I get no system rust at all.
Yup. I'M the dishwasher. And I do a better job than any machine.
Emptied the bed on the 79 Silverado diesel, it's been packed since roughly 2005.
Found some long lost gems, courtesy of a parts swap years before that.
Found a loaded elky header panel, chrome front bumper, and hood all in terrific shape. No rust, nice chrome, clear hood ornament. It was from a low mileage car the owner did an ss swap on and wanted to trade for some bits and pieces to conplete his vision. Also, found a pair of maroon monte ss Buckets, no wear, no fade, but also no tracks.
So, now I'm torn. Honestly forgot I had it, and you know how the saying goes on that, it's supposed to mean I don't need to keep it.
So, brings us to the elephant in the room, also, have no idea what kind of prices elky parts like these bring these days anyways? Never really dealt with those years ago never mind what it might be these days as stuff got older.
Bed on the '79 Silverado needs to come off for replacement, but, I've got three straight spares sitting around anyways. So does front clip, and, it's got a small hole in the floor pan that's been there for 20 years but hasn't gotten worse. Like I said, too many projects.
Found some long lost gems, courtesy of a parts swap years before that.
Found a loaded elky header panel, chrome front bumper, and hood all in terrific shape. No rust, nice chrome, clear hood ornament. It was from a low mileage car the owner did an ss swap on and wanted to trade for some bits and pieces to conplete his vision. Also, found a pair of maroon monte ss Buckets, no wear, no fade, but also no tracks.
So, now I'm torn. Honestly forgot I had it, and you know how the saying goes on that, it's supposed to mean I don't need to keep it.
So, brings us to the elephant in the room, also, have no idea what kind of prices elky parts like these bring these days anyways? Never really dealt with those years ago never mind what it might be these days as stuff got older.
Bed on the '79 Silverado needs to come off for replacement, but, I've got three straight spares sitting around anyways. So does front clip, and, it's got a small hole in the floor pan that's been there for 20 years but hasn't gotten worse. Like I said, too many projects.
Cut some angle iron into sections and did the same to some square tube. The angle will be the "feet" for the winch that I am working on for the press. The square tube will be the two longditudinal ribs that run from one foot to the other and on which the winch will sit. The tube is down on the basement shop work bench, already clamped to the winch chassis. I need to score some 7/16ths capscrews and cut a pair of short pieces of flat plate that will get welded between the two tubes as cross stringers. They also get the holes for the capscrews that will let me bolt the winch into place instead of welding it in. That provides me with the ability to unship the winch if I ever have to repair or replace it.
Nick
Nick
did some digging and reading.
it would appear that Cascade (in powder form only) is primarily used for cleaning out blocks that have experienced coolant contamination by oil/fuel. this would make sense since it is a soap and should be able to encapsulate those materials and flush them out, just like the wildlife rescue people use Dawn soap/degreaser to remove oil from the feathers of ducks caught in oil spills.
on the other hand, CLR is used for removing particulates and knocking loose junk in the coolant passages. as Nick mentioned, will need to flush completely due to the aluminum heads. I did find this product that confirms what it is used for, but it is not the regular CLR found in supermarkets so I don't know how the 2 CLR products compare.
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