Which flywheel do I need?

[pontiacgp]

tomorrow is Jan 1st so I don't how you'll be getting the slave cylinder and as far as bleeding the system I was ready to bleed it but when I saw the air bubble as I filled the reservoir I just waited and when the bubbles stopped it was fine. I'm changing the slave cylinder to howe hydraulic thro out bearing so I know that will have to be bled.

 

[Chillin014]

Yeah....crap, I was just repeating what the guy at Autozone told me. What kind of clutch line do you run to that Howe bearing? I really liked my SS line that I bought because I could unscrew it from each cylinder rather than having to take out the whole system to mess with one thing, but unfortunately the fittings were loose in the cylinders and creating a leak. Here's a picture I took to show the guy who made it, notice how the roll pin is like half the size of the notched area :? .

Anyway, I just read about reverse bleeding on another forum. Apparently you can press the slave cylinder rod in by hand to pump the air bubbles out of the reservoir before mounting it and not have to bother with the screw or pedal pumping. I'm going to try it.

 

[pontiacgp]

for the howe bearing you use a SS line for the feed line and the bleed line. How hard was it for you to push the adapter in far enough to get the roll pin to install? The adapters I used didn't look like yours I had to put quite a bit of pressure on the adapter to get it in far enough to intsall the roll pin so I know the seal on the adapter was in nice and tight. The adapters were not loose when installed in the master or slave. The adapters I used were made by Russel PN 640281 and you can see by their design they are not the same as yours.

 

[anakputa]

I use two person method, I have someone pumped the Master cylinder while I use a pry bar to keep the bearing from moving. I am using a howe hydraulic bearing too.

I ordered the Russell Brand fittings to fit the master cylinder, P/N 640281 but I will check the roll pin fitting tomorrow since I am still in mock up mode..sorry you had to find out the hard way. I know it will be worth it when you done..

 

[pontiacgp]

I don't know why you have to use a pry bar to bleed the howe set up or even the need to pump the pedal. The bleeder on the howe is at the top of the bearing when in place so with the remote reservoir being higher than the bearing gravity will bleed the system. That's the way we bled it on the race car.

 

[anakputa]

I had to do this on a Ford Hydraulic Throwout bearing before. I am using the Camaro Bellhousing and I reach in there where the fork was and keep the bearing from moving..

 

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

Try shimming the starter. Shaving the critical areas is not likely to stop the rubbing. Typically, the starter pinion nose castings are not an exact science, to put it kindly. Plus, the blocks can have some variance in them too, depending on the line bore of the crank journals and it's relation to the bottom of the block. This is why rebuilt starters always come with the shims, because half the times they need them. GM didn't really build these cars and engines with a lot of precision, and relied on make do engineering to make the parts fit together good enough to work. You need to do the same when you rebuild one.

Of course, I am assuming that it is rubbing where the pinion nose is by the ring gear teeth. If it is on the back of the flywheel that it rubs, then you probably best served to clearance the starter pinion nose so that it does not hit the flywheel.

 

[pontiacgp]

I had to do this on a Ford Hydraulic Throwout bearing before. I am using the Camaro Bellhousing and I reach in there where the fork was and keep the bearing from moving..

an easier way would be to get a vacuum pimp and attach it to the bleeder line for the bearing and pull the brake fluid through the system

 

[Chillin014]

yeah my fittings definitely werent hard to get into place and they dont look as good as those russell ones. The guy is going to send me some new fittings but at least I know I have the Russell option as well.

Try shimming the starter. Shaving the critical areas is not likely to stop the rubbing. Typically, the starter pinion nose castings are not an exact science, to put it kindly. Plus, the blocks can have some variance in them too, depending on the line bore of the crank journals and it's relation to the bottom of the block. This is why rebuilt starters always come with the shims, because half the times they need them. GM didn't really build these cars and engines with a lot of precision, and relied on make do engineering to make the parts fit together good enough to work. You need to do the same when you rebuild one.

Of course, I am assuming that it is rubbing where the pinion nose is by the ring gear teeth. If it is on the back of the flywheel that it rubs, then you probably best served to clearance the starter pinion nose so that it does not hit the flywheel.

The scraping noise stopped, I think whatever small interference I had may have already worn away (and with only a few minutes of idling too). I will look at it under the car today. I thought shims were for adjustment of the starter gear in relation to the flywheel teeth. Regardless, yes it is/was rubbing on the back of the flywheel. I will get a picture in a bit.

 

[pontiacgp]

The way I put those adapters in the cylinders was to gently use a vise to slide the adapter in deep enough to install the spring pin