Which torque converter?

[custom442]

It's time to pick out a torque converter, I'm thinking one with a stall of around 3,000-3,500. What about a B&M holeshot? haven't looked into this much

(I'm lookin at the higher stall because I will most likely drop a few hundred pounds from the car in the future, if it has too low of a stall then I'll be needing another converter to have any decent performance)

...engine will have 460-490 hp/tq and it's primarily a street car so ETs don't matter much, stock rear, th350 with shift kit

 

[monzaz]

motor info

If it is just street why would you want all that stall???

Horsepower and torque numbers do not make any difference on the pick of the stall till you can tell us WHEN the torque hits RPM the power band of the cam what motor, cubic inch, cam selection, carb size, intake manifold, etc.

So pretty much we can all tell you what we like to see you buy...BUT if you truly want help you will need to provide more info.


This is why a lot of guys that are serious about picking parts ONE TIME RIGHT have a engine dynoed. The dyno read out will tell you where the engine starts making its power and torque and how long the powerband is going to be for shift points ... and this helps pick everything else to enhance your cars performance like Gears and torque converters and trans brake line launch...etc. OR just plain street performance.

Hope you can help us help you.


Take care, Jim

 

[82355supreme]

Cam specs & rear gears ( and engine size) will determine what you'll need. Post them up & we can help.

As far as weight, you have it backwards. You'd need a higher stall with more weight to get the engine into the power range to launch a boat. the lighter the car the easier it will be for the engine to move the car & thus less stall.

 

[custom442]

As far as weight, you have it backwards. You'd need a higher stall with more weight to get the engine into the power range to launch a boat. the lighter the car the easier it will be for the engine to move the car & thus less stall.

okay, so if the car is lighter with say a 3500 stall then the converter might be slipping well before 3500? And it works normally with a heavier car?

another off topic question - does that hurt the converter if it's slipping before the advertised rpm?

 

[custom442]

383, holley 4150 street avenger 750 cfm, compression should be somewhere between 9.5-10.5 : 1, flowtech afterburner headers, aluminum patriot heads flow around 250-260 cfm @ 500 lift

282 XE comp cam specs - http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/CamDe ... d=160&sb=2

Rpm air gap manifold

now is stock gears, but in the future I'm thinking somewhere around 3.00-3.30

monzaz- I wanted to dyno it but I can't do that because of money and the fact that I need a converter to drive it to the dyno. I didn't want to go the engine dyno route so I'm guessing and hoping to get things right

should be around 3000-3200 is where it starts to make good power, but it's just a guess

 

[82355supreme]

Do not go any higher than a 2,800- 3,000 RPM converter. That cam doesn't have wild duration. No need to go higher. But, you need to get different gears ASAP. You'll overheat the oil & burn up the converter if you don't get some shorter gears. I would say go nothing less than 3.42's.

Your combo will make huge torque & at least 425+ horse. Remember, the torque is what's moving the car. If you go overboard on the converter you're wasting that torque. It's being lost in unnecessary slippage, not what you want in a street car.


The cam in my engine has 230* & I have an Art Carr 2200 converter & 3.73 gears. Works just fine.

I went a little higher on gears to make up for a slight lack on converter. If I were to do it over, I would have gone with a 2,800 stall & 3.42 gears. But, when I was gathering parts for my build, I scored this Art Carr 2200 for $125, brand new!!

 

[custom442]

Do not go any higher than a 2,800- 3,000 RPM converter. That cam doesn't have wild duration. No need to go higher. But, you need to get different gears ASAP. You'll overheat the oil & burn up the converter if you don't get some shorter gears. I would say go nothing less than 3.42's.

Your combo will make huge torque & at least 425+ horse. Remember, the torque is what's moving the car. If you go overboard on the converter you're wasting that torque. It's being lost in unnecessary slippage, not what you want in a street car.


The cam in my engine has 230* & I have an Art Carr 2200 converter & 3.73 gears. Works just fine.

I went a little higher on gears to make up for a slight lack on converter. If I were to do it over, I would have gone with a 2,800 stall & 3.42 gears. But, when I was gathering parts for my build, I scored this Art Carr 2200 for $125, brand new!!

Wish I could find a deal like that, So I would be fine with a 2800-3200 B&M holeshot 3000? It's the cheapest quality new one that I can find at 380$. Know of any other ones at a better price?

I won't be standing on it until I get a new rear anyway, and want to get the highest gear possible without going overboard, I'll try to get something around 3.42

 

[custom442]

what about one of these:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ACC-2800 ... 240%3A1318

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ACC-2800 ... 240%3A1318

What's the difference between these two?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TSI-10-T ... 240%3A1318

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TSI-10-T ... 240%3A1318

 

[82355supreme]

A 3,000 is a good choice. I fully understand the want of getting the engine into its power range, but on a street car that's torque biased, you don't want any higher.

Look into Redneck Performance converters. A 3000 can be bought on eBay for $300/free shipping. They are a good piece. A friend of mine has 10 sec Firebird & has a Redneck 4000 in his car. Many runs & street miles, no issues.

Or, there's an Art Carr 3000 on there now for $325/free shipping, brand new.

 

[custom442]

I'm most likely getting this one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GM-TH350 ... .m20.l1116


Another question, what's the significance of a spragless converter?