other rust and body issues

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Texas82GP

Just-a-worm
Apr 3, 2015
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Spring, Texas
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malibujustin

Master Mechanic
Mar 11, 2017
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I agree with the gas mig welder. Pop said the gas one is much much better.
 
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bob64

G-Body Guru
Mar 30, 2017
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If your going to get a stud welder make sure it's a spring loaded one that way your not burning holes, once you hit the trigger it bounces back abit. Was thinking about that an l am assuming the one you had may not of had that opinion.
Ya the Hobart MIG welders are well known and good l hear. Even some of the little flux core migs have a gas line for Argon.
I use a Miller MIG an welding sheet metal settings it's barely on 15 heat out of 100 and wire speed is 25 out of 100. There is also a stud adapter that you can get for the MIG that welds on the studs, it's cheap but takes practice, l'm sure your Father could do it, l've never used it but l know it's out there !
Your doing fine David just keep doing what your doing and you'll get the job done an looking great !!
 
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Longroof79

Rocket Powered Basset Hound
Oct 14, 2008
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Gainesville, Fl
Years back I purchased a little Lincoln 110 volt, 100 amp welder. It included the conversion kit to convert to MIG. It came with a roll of fluxcore wire. The fluxcore wire worked okay on some stuff. I later purchased a tank of Argon/ CO2....man what a difference.
If I knew more back then, I would have bought a welder with a higher output like maybe a 140 amp unit. I wanted it primarily to do sheetmetal repair, patch panels, small brackets and such. I knew it wasn't meant to do chassis work or anything heavy. I do still like it nevertheless.
I don't know how much more I'll be doing in the future...time and age marches on.
 
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malibujustin

Master Mechanic
Mar 11, 2017
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The hf stud welder I used way back on my 66 was spring loaded. This last one I bought to have for myself to use on the 80 was spring loaded. Returned it for refund. On sale now for $99 HF. Maybe I didn't have the metal as clean as I thought??? Thanks fellas for the advice and encouragement.
 
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Texas82GP

Just-a-worm
Apr 3, 2015
7,989
18,702
113
Spring, Texas
If your going to get a stud welder make sure it's a spring loaded one that way your not burning holes, once you hit the trigger it bounces back abit. Was thinking about that an l am assuming the one you had may not of had that opinion.
Ya the Hobart MIG welders are well known and good l hear. Even some of the little flux core migs have a gas line for Argon.
I use a Miller MIG an welding sheet metal settings it's barely on 15 heat out of 100 and wire speed is 25 out of 100. There is also a stud adapter that you can get for the MIG that welds on the studs, it's cheap but takes practice, l'm sure your Father could do it, l've never used it but l know it's out there !
Your doing fine David just keep doing what your doing and you'll get the job done an looking great !!
Our Hobart Handler came with a Miller gun. I don't think there is much difference other than paint color, decals and price.
 
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malibujustin

Master Mechanic
Mar 11, 2017
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Our Hobart Handler came with a Miller gun. I don't think there is much difference other than paint color, decals and price.
I checked out the Hobart welder in the link. Looks nice. My cousin has an older miller with the gas. May try to see if he will let me borrow it for any welding. I do enjoy the brazing with the silver and little propane torch. Melting point not quite as high as normal brazing that requires oxy-acy torch. Rods are a little high. 45% silver and has nickel and tin in it. As long as you get all the flux off and clean well, filler and paint sticks good. On my seam where roof skin meets brace and a pillar it is brazed from factory with brass it appears
 
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malibujustin

Master Mechanic
Mar 11, 2017
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Well back at it some. Still working on passenger side door jamb area. Just higher up this time. More rust holes. Will cut out area and cut and bend patch to fit. This will take care of this area. Some por15 and a little filler afterwards.
 

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Doug Chahoy

Comic Book Super Hero
Nov 21, 2016
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I don't know what year your project is, but after 1979 you should not torch braze sheet metal. They changed the makeup of the steel for 1980 on. The outside of the braze/weld area which generally would be white will eventually crack. In the 80s many body shops that still used brazing suffered huge lawsuits. That's why mig and other electric welding became the only way to go. I have seen many cars with broken sheet metal around brass/welds.
 
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