other rust and body issues

[Doug Chahoy]

Also,if you have a mig you can weld washers on and use an old slide hammer with a hook type attachment. Since I've had a Miller 210 w/argon for years, and washers are cheap,I couldn't see wasting the money on a stud gun. I never really cared for them when I worked in body shops, to bulky.

 

[malibujustin]

I don't know what year your project is, but after 1979 you should not torch braze sheet metal. They changed the makeup of the steel for 1980 on. The outside of the braze/weld area which generally would be white will eventually crack. In the 80s many body shops that still used brazing suffered huge lawsuits. That's why mig and other electric welding became the only way to go. I have seen many cars with broken sheet metal around brass/welds.

It is an 80 model. Sounds like good advice. But I have found factory brazing around the windshield to roof seams. Brass. And I am not using brass. I am using silver, tin, nickel rods. Don't know if that makes a difference. My pop silver brazed a patches onto my front fenders on my 66 malibu 12 years ago. Still on there. Can't tell it wasn't welded. Now if I had a better welder to work with i would weld it. Thanks for your input

 

[malibujustin]

Also,if you have a mig you can weld washers on and use an old slide hammer with a hook type attachment. Since I've had a Miller 210 w/argon for years, and washers are cheap,I couldn't see wasting the money on a stud gun. I never really cared for them when I worked in body shops, to bulky.

Your talking about standing them up...hmmm. good idea to pull out the dent. Thanks

 

[malibujustin]

Got the rust cut out of the door jamb and patch bent up and put in place today. Grinded down area. Needs some touch up. Then a lil por15 and lil filler. At least the rust is gone.

 

[Doug Chahoy]

It's the flame that causes the damage on 1980 and later sheet metal. The factory had ways of doing it without a flame.

 

[malibujustin]

It's the flame that causes the damage on 1980 and later sheet metal. The factory had ways of doing it without a flame.

Looks like they smeared the brass on at the windshield points I mentioned earlier. Lol. Didn't even grind it any. The sheet metal used on my 66 was aftermarket.

 

[Clutch]

I've read that the Harbor Freight stud gun was ok but no personal experience with it. The Magna Spot is outstanding. Studs will only do so much though. I've gotten too rough and actually pulled them off, creating a small hole. I'm no expert. On the Mig skills, just get out there and practice David. That's what it takes. I welded on two quarters, two rockers, a trunk dropoff, a wheelhouse patch, a tail panel and a door skin on my brother's car. Now I've done two rockers and five quarter panel patches on my Dad's car. I just now feel like I'm getting to where I know what I'm doing.

The harbor freight stud gun works fine the harbor freight studs suck you need good studs from an Autobody supply store also the harbor freight slide hammer has a roll lock like the stinger T handle so it works better if you don't slide the hammer the stinger slide hammer screws on the stud so it works better I often weld on a row of studs and use duck bill vice grips to pull them all at the same time

 

[malibujustin]

It's the flame that causes the damage on 1980 and later sheet metal. The factory had ways of doing it without a flame.

So mr Doug, do you think the silver brazed patches I did in door jamb will crack and fall out? Thanks

 

[Clutch]

I've read that the Harbor Freight stud gun was ok but no personal experience with it. The Magna Spot is outstanding. Studs will only do so much though. I've gotten too rough and actually pulled them off, creating a small hole. I'm no expert. On the Mig skills, just get out there and practice David. That's what it takes. I welded on two quarters, two rockers, a trunk dropoff, a wheelhouse patch, a tail panel and a door skin on my brother's car. Now I've done two rockers and five quarter panel patches on my Dad's car. I just now feel like I'm getting to where I know what I'm doing.

The harbor freight stud gun works fine the harbor freight studs suck you need good studs from an Autobody supply store also the harbor freight slide hammer has a roll lock like the stinger T handle so it works better if you don't slide the hammer the stinger slide hammer screws on the stud so it works better I often weld on a row of studs and use duck bill vice grips to pull them all at the same time

So mr Doug, do you think the silver brazed patches I did in door jamb will crack and fall out? Thanks

Get a mig look for a used one at home I have a Miller cricket I've had it 14 years and it was 20 years old when I got it

 

[malibujustin]

The harbor freight stud gun works fine the harbor freight studs suck you need good studs from an Autobody supply store also the harbor freight slide hammer has a roll lock like the stinger T handle so it works better if you don't slide the hammer the stinger slide hammer screws on the stud so it works better I often weld on a row of studs and use duck bill vice grips to pull them all at the same time

Get a mig look for a used one at home I have a Miller cricket I've had it 14 years and it was 20 years old when I got it

Wish I could afford one. Have looked around a lil for a used one. I have a cheap harbor freight flux core one that is a pos. Even my pop who has been welding and brazing for 50 yrs says it's a pos. I've seen him braze a 2 inch hole shut like it was nothing. Now I am wondering if my patch work will hold up. Pop says it looks ok. I've beat on it with a hammer. Seems solid. It is a sheet metal patch that's silver brazed around edges. My 66 is holding up fine.