All the LS swap harmonic balancer install videos I see on youtube show folks using aftermarket ARP crank bolts instead of the GM torque to yield bolt. I plan to use the torque to yield GM bolt, but I am nervous about doing this the first time. I don't believe I will be able to achieve 140 degrees of twist in a fluid motion; instead, I figure I might need to torque in two or three strokes to 140 degrees twist. Additionally, I am fairly certain that I will flip the engine stand if I do this on the stand, so should I do the final torque of the balancer bolt when the engine is on the mounts in the car? The radiator will be out, so I should have the space needed.
Your advice is ALWAYS valued.
1. Can I use the installer tool to achieve the initial pass 240 ft-lb seating of the balancer pulley? All my references tell me to use the old, OEM bolt.
2. Should I spend $50 on hardened ARP crank bolt and socket to fit it or will a smooth brained ape like me be able to achieve proper torque angle with OEM bolt with a 3-foot cheater bar and an angle guage?
3. Should I do final torque in with engine on mounts so I don't tip the stand?
4. I plan to use assembly lube on the snout of the crank and the ID of the balancer pulley, and all threads and washer faces. Good?
Your advice is ALWAYS valued.
1. Can I use the installer tool to achieve the initial pass 240 ft-lb seating of the balancer pulley? All my references tell me to use the old, OEM bolt.
2. Should I spend $50 on hardened ARP crank bolt and socket to fit it or will a smooth brained ape like me be able to achieve proper torque angle with OEM bolt with a 3-foot cheater bar and an angle guage?
3. Should I do final torque in with engine on mounts so I don't tip the stand?
4. I plan to use assembly lube on the snout of the crank and the ID of the balancer pulley, and all threads and washer faces. Good?