QP has said they think the issue is using wheel spacers. I have 1/2” spacers in the back currently.
I guess I’ll be notching the frame and going to 5/8” studs if the wheels will take them.
1983 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Sedan LS Turbo Build
- Thread starter GroceryGetter83
- Start date
I guess I’ll be notching the frame and going to 5/8” studs if the wheels will take them.
Have you considered machining the wheels to take a flat spacer and nut? I read that it can be done, but never seen it.
What did they say about the axles?
What’s your back space,4.5”?
What did they say about the axles?
What’s your back space,4.5”?
I will have to look into that, yes. Might have to fab something up to do myself.
Waiting to hear from their senior tech person, who should be in the office tomorrow.
BS is 4.5” I believe.
I think the axle culprit is the housing not being braced. My dads Caprice makes more power, goes faster, is slightly lighter though and is also on 35 spline axles without issue. His Ford 9” is from QP though, internally and externally braced.
Mine has no additional bracing, just a stock axle cut to gbody width:
Your issues always have me thinking about my setup/junk is one of the reasons I'm so interested what you have going on (I think you know that.)
I have over 3" of spline engagement with the spool. i had the axles out before DW and they were fine, now I'm going to check them again before I head to Florida to visit in Feb and try for low 9's. I was checking my wheel studs after Jake bent all of his. And now seeing yours, I think I'm going to look into a new set or upgrading to 5/8. But damn man, price out wheels for 5/8 studs with spacers - $1K is cheap for a set of those wheels (not budget friendly). The only thing that makes me explain why my studs aren't bent like yours and Jakes is the the lug nut needed for Drag Lites. It has over 2" of thread and uses a washer to disperse the clamping load on the wheel. But I'm wrecking these washers and lug nuts. I'm warping the washer and grinding up the area that the nut rides on the spacer. I replaced the lug nuts twice in the past 30 runs because it's obvious something is working/moving there. I'm torquing them to 95ft/lbs, which is on the high end of what Weld recommends.
Before you posted today I was looking through a bunch of threads on YB about guys machining wheels like yours to take the flat spacer, but the issue is getting the the holes PRECISELY machined because the wheel is not hub centric. I was curious if QP thought you should get hub centric wheels to help with the issue.I know Moser will make the pilot to fit your wheels if you want them to, ad it's not crazy money to do that.
I'm truly considering that these studs are consumables. And every 10-20 runs just change them. Obviously they aren't breaking, my god yours look like they should've broke, but they didn't. Just spitballing here 😉
I have over 3" of spline engagement with the spool. i had the axles out before DW and they were fine, now I'm going to check them again before I head to Florida to visit in Feb and try for low 9's. I was checking my wheel studs after Jake bent all of his. And now seeing yours, I think I'm going to look into a new set or upgrading to 5/8. But damn man, price out wheels for 5/8 studs with spacers - $1K is cheap for a set of those wheels (not budget friendly). The only thing that makes me explain why my studs aren't bent like yours and Jakes is the the lug nut needed for Drag Lites. It has over 2" of thread and uses a washer to disperse the clamping load on the wheel. But I'm wrecking these washers and lug nuts. I'm warping the washer and grinding up the area that the nut rides on the spacer. I replaced the lug nuts twice in the past 30 runs because it's obvious something is working/moving there. I'm torquing them to 95ft/lbs, which is on the high end of what Weld recommends.
Before you posted today I was looking through a bunch of threads on YB about guys machining wheels like yours to take the flat spacer, but the issue is getting the the holes PRECISELY machined because the wheel is not hub centric. I was curious if QP thought you should get hub centric wheels to help with the issue.I know Moser will make the pilot to fit your wheels if you want them to, ad it's not crazy money to do that.
I'm truly considering that these studs are consumables. And every 10-20 runs just change them. Obviously they aren't breaking, my god yours look like they should've broke, but they didn't. Just spitballing here 😉
Speed tax time. lol
Get that ghetto factory lookin diff outta there... right after you weld on the suspension stuff for the lower control arms....
Progress update (sad car is sad):
Added drain:
Had to move the old filler and patch:
For the back brace to sit correctly:
Built a jig to keep axle happy while welding:
Moving around to keep the local heat minimal:
Filling the gap:
Fill port:
Fill added and smoothed out:
Adding internal gussets next:
Added drain:
Had to move the old filler and patch:
For the back brace to sit correctly:
Built a jig to keep axle happy while welding:
Moving around to keep the local heat minimal:
Filling the gap:
Fill port:
Fill added and smoothed out:
Adding internal gussets next:
Internal gussets done:
Not as pretty as I had hoped, but the angles were weird and couldn’t get all the contamination out.
Not as pretty as I had hoped, but the angles were weird and couldn’t get all the contamination out.
Couple more gussets and I’ll be done:
Pretty happy how it turned out. Should be good enough for what I’m doing with the car 👌🏻
Pretty happy how it turned out. Should be good enough for what I’m doing with the car 👌🏻
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