200-4R build it's starting Complete

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only "specialty tool" needed is for compressing the spring pack on the piston? I do like the way you solved having to buy a $150 tool (what it costs for the 700r4). will have to remember that next time I have to tear one down!

makes me think I may have to do a thread for the 700r4 that I finally got the nerve to try!
 
Joe,
That was pretty clever using the C-clamps...
Did you use a press to remove the stator support?
 
only "specialty tool" needed is for compressing the spring pack on the piston? I do like the way you solved having to buy a $150 tool (what it costs for the 700r4). will have to remember that next time I have to tear one down!

makes me think I may have to do a thread for the 700r4 that I finally got the nerve to try!

The transmission tools are expensive. You can compensate with what is in your tool box.

I'm sure a thread on a 700 would be helpful since it is also s popular swap.

Joe,
That was pretty clever using the C-clamps...
Did you use a press to remove the stator support?

I got the idea from someone on El Camino central for the clamps. The only thing is that it is a bit of working the clamps to stay initially but once you get them on its easy. I used a thick piece of clear vinyl to prevent marring of the drum on the outside.

The stator I used a rubber mallet to tap it out. Didn't have to smash it just a few light taps.

I've been disassembling and assembling the pieces and checking clearances to make sure it's right and make myself comfortable when I do the final assembly.

Is been interesting looking at all the workings of a transmission. My engine build feels easy now compared to this lol.
 
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TexasT is a knowledgeable guy with the 2004R. I personally would step up to a 10 vane pump rotor, supposed to have more consistent pulses and rise or the 7 vane. I went with 13 vane but didn't measure clearance, pressures were low in OD,D and D2, needed a .555 boost valve to get acceptable pressures. The 13 vane is also more prone to breakage, not sure why GM went to the 13 vane, no real advantage to them. Dr Dan(Dan Mascal) on ROP is a great resource, GM tech for years and has built them for big power. You also HAVE to buy the sheet metal pan with the rear, bottom suction filter set up. I have the Hughes deep aluminum pan and 4L60E bottom feed filter. Dan says my set up might be good to 12's with it overfilled. The Sheet Metal pan is all Dan uses on his builds. Make sure you don't get the servo set to tight, no drag or it will burn the band. Mine shifted great but lived a short life. I made sure on this trans that it wasn't too tight. Go for the firmest shift on that Transgo kit, it is on the tame side. Make sure your clearance in the clutch is dead on. These trans are very finicky to get right and live behind big power.
 
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Very cool thread. I've wanted to build an automatic transmission for a while but I don't have a work space that's clean enough with enough room to lay all the pieces out. Plus it's kind of intimidating looking at all of those parts! Lol. I guess it's because I'm not very familiar with the inside of an automatic transmission. I'll tear apart and rebuild any engine you put in front of me. I understand how they work, I know what all the parts are and what to look for when I'm inspecting them. I guess I'll have to try my hand at a transmission in the future. For now I'll watch your build and try to learn as much as I can. Good Luck and I hope everything goes well for you.
 
I would also ask him about the PTC 10" lock up converter. I believe it stalls around 2800 rpm and is dead consistent at the track and is good for big power, all for around $400! I have a PATC cheap converter that is OK and that flash stalls at 2300 rpm, rated at 2200-2500 rpm. Only rated for 350 HP, should have got the Dr Dan special converter. Usually a good 10" lock up is closer to a $1000, didn't realize it was that affordable. I hope my current one doesn't implode like the Oregon Performance Trans 500 HP high stall 2000-2600 stall that died behind my 15 second Olds 403 at the track.
 
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Very cool thread. I've wanted to build an automatic transmission for a while but I don't have a work space that's clean enough with enough room to lay all the pieces out. Plus it's kind of intimidating looking at all of those parts! Lol. I guess it's because I'm not very familiar with the inside of an automatic transmission. I'll tear apart and rebuild any engine you put in front of me. I understand how they work, I know what all the parts are and what to look for when I'm inspecting them. I guess I'll have to try my hand at a transmission in the future. For now I'll watch your build and try to learn as much as I can. Good Luck and I hope everything goes well for you.

Thank you I appreciate it.

Once it's all laid out its not that bad. Getting the mods right for your application is the tough part I think. There a lot of great builders that do things a little different and that is what gets a bit crazy in a good way. There is s ton of great info or there.

I would also ask him about the PTC 10" lock up converter. I believe it stalls around 2800 rpm and is dead consistent at the track and is good for big power, all for around $400! I have a PATC cheap converter that is OK and that flash stalls at 2300 rpm, rated at 2200-2500 rpm. Only rated for 350 HP, should have got the Dr Dan special converter. Usually a good 10" lock up is closer to a $1000, didn't realize it was that affordable. I hope my current one doesn't implode like the Oregon Performance Trans 500 HP high stall 2000-2600 stall that died behind my 15 second Olds 403 at the track.


PTC has great tc's. I'll have to budget accordingly since some stuff has come up. But it's no rush anyhow which is good.

I went over the thread on rop for Dan. It had a ton of great info.

Thanks again

Joe
 
I also have a PTC in my 700r4. Haven't gone to the track but it's a healthy 355 with vortec heads. Only complaint is it's pretty loose on the street and under light load. After the trans rebuild I always thought the trans was slipping til I got used to the converter. After about 1500 miles I know the trans is just fine lol 🙂
 
I like the coupe lurking in the background, peeking at it's Christmas present. I used to have a UConn hoodie sweatshirt the same shade as yours until the holes became larger than the sweatshirt, and my wife made it disappear.

Imagine how much faster your build would go without stopping every three minutes to snap a picture. Great tutorial for motivating the brave...
 
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