78 GMC caballero (elky love)

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I was going to install calipers forward to hopefully avoid having to relocate the shock mounts.
Yeah I dont see the point in even dumping in new bearings.
I am tossing new wheel seals at it tho.
Ill have to check the link at home, looks like work is on to that forum!LOL
 
found this
viewtopic.php?f=19&t=41067
#1 I cant believe its just a matter of drilling out your stock backing plates (after cutting them down) then bolting it together, lucky they didnt change geomerty much.
#2 I really dont see where mounting them calipers to the back would be better (other than if you mount them that way two of your holes already have pilot holes). Id much rather center and locate the holes my self and have the calipers forward (as it was on the F-body stock). Unless there is interfearence there that Im not seeing like lower controle arm interfearence? Either way, I had the water jet opperator here cut me a new set of backing plates with the correct center diameter, so i will probably use that as a drilling template..

edit...
just realized at the end of that thread some one posted up showing the issue with the caliper forward... looks like the caliper will contact the fraim rail that way, and since I wan to lay frame with this one day looks like to the back is the way for me to go!
DSC02424_zps0c45dc70.jpg
 
My LS1/C5 calipers are facing the rear, no cleaance issues. My shocks aren't relocated either. Then again, I am running a 9Inch.
 
I think the shock offset dosent need to be all that much, looks like it will just barely rub to me..
well, that was surprisingly easy...
I got all set to weld in new backing plates, I even pulled a favor to have them water jet cut.
Turns out I really didn't need them, but they made great drilling fixtures.
I drilled out the lower two dust cover holes to 3/8"
Bolted one of the plates into place
568AA483-16B3-4CD0-A16F-A29ABA710696-3964-000009F6912AF6D4_zpsa3df8163.jpg

Then used the 3/8" drill to make a center mark on the two remaining holes
DDF909B2-9082-4E4A-AE55-FF51CE8E4567-3964-000009F698E4F2C5_zps7d4f216c.jpg

Drilled thru using a 1/8" drill and drilled them out bigger with the 3/8", scribed the plate to trim the drum backer plate.
LS backer plates bolted right up (BTW for any one keeping track, I drove out the short caballero wheel studs and replaced them with the LS ones)
D6A6C8C3-D9A7-4768-8698-1D4539FF5D1F-3964-000009F6A6C6C051_zpsd2493a1c.jpg

and with some spacers for the lug nuts and the rotor in place it all seemed to line up really well
F7D17875-563A-44D5-AFDB-7FE827906070-3964-000009F6B7D80FB4_zps8b528501.jpg

Not really perfect alignment but good enough to work...
C5D4F018-C33E-4945-8A3E-6D42703BB90B-3964-000009F6B079CB74_zps3e958012.jpg

Im really amazed how simple this was...
 
Yeah man, not a big deal at all! Looking good.
 
Agreed!
worst part of the swap was pulling the axles out...
IMO, if you have to replace wheel seals it would be silly not to do this...
 
Neat little inter webs bit I found, thought it was worth posting
8b38ab63_zpsf46e525b.jpg
 
Thats a useful bit of information right there. 😀
 
I liked it so much I printed it out and hung it on my toolbox
Got some more work done on the rear end, cleaned all the inner bits, replaced the wheel seals, pin bolt and cover gasket.
the shock mounts relocated, started by trimming the nubbins
BC3E8F2A-B370-46DD-8532-53C9143A9F87-4757-00000A54013FB266_zps2952747f.jpg

Fabbed up some 1/4 inch brackets and welded them on
F1A73739-08FE-4BD3-A8DF-8AFE01747A98-4757-00000A540C1B6178_zpsdcb9c602.jpg

Then gave it a quick cleaning and drenched it with por15
7049FD76-CCB9-42AE-A08B-1F95DA20F311-4757-00000A541C87B909_zps67893f5f.jpg
 
Frame dropped
9B1D918A-54CD-4529-AB4C-FD2CF93DB791-4757-00000BFDC6012E3C_zpse443c4a0.jpg

And stripped
D79087DE-A620-48DD-9BFB-97D8DF522A74-4757-00000BFDD23E186C_zpsb0fef485.jpg
 
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