Philips 4x6 leds
Rock auto has best prices at 85 per lamp.
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84' Cutlass pro touring build
- Thread starter Tony1968
- Start date
Rock auto has best prices at 85 per lamp.
The metal bracket that is in your second picture goes where the plastic battery hold down is bolted at. The hole that his higher is for the stud on the header panel and the lower one goes to the core support or vise versa. In the picture you are holding it wrong and should be turned to where the bolts holes face to the front and rear of the car.
AC lines all ran including filter/dryer and condenser. Still need to attach bracket for dryer and wire pressure switch
Trans cooler relocated
And tied it in with power steering cooler.
Rebuilt the vacuum pump and she runs like a champ.
Ran her for an hour then watched gauges and no movement. 30" of vacuum held for over an hour so turned on pump again and ran for total of 3.5 hours. Glad I bought 3 - 12oz cans of 134a because first can I could not get more than 9oz. 2nd can I got the whole 12oz and used a little more than 3oz from 3rd. System requires 24oz total and I'm a touch more than that. I can always adjust as necessary.
Getting the bumper lined up was very hard I'm not gonna lie. I must've tightened and loosened the bolts ten times.
Hard to see but the front center of the hood is up maybe 1/8th of an inch and it really sticks out if you look closely. I am hoping that the latch will help me suck it down once installed.
And tied it in with power steering cooler.
Rebuilt the vacuum pump and she runs like a champ.
Ran her for an hour then watched gauges and no movement. 30" of vacuum held for over an hour so turned on pump again and ran for total of 3.5 hours. Glad I bought 3 - 12oz cans of 134a because first can I could not get more than 9oz. 2nd can I got the whole 12oz and used a little more than 3oz from 3rd. System requires 24oz total and I'm a touch more than that. I can always adjust as necessary.
Getting the bumper lined up was very hard I'm not gonna lie. I must've tightened and loosened the bolts ten times.
Hard to see but the front center of the hood is up maybe 1/8th of an inch and it really sticks out if you look closely. I am hoping that the latch will help me suck it down once installed.
Damn, that cover looks great!
Regarding the gap you mentioned in your most recent post. I believe you have to adjust the center support to resolve that. Correct me if I’m wrong - it’s slotted, correct?
I have the same issue but I have a tube core support that requires some fabricating to hold the center at proper height.
Again, Tony, looks fabulous - well done and congrats!!!! Keep it up - you’re at the short end of the path.
Regarding the gap you mentioned in your most recent post. I believe you have to adjust the center support to resolve that. Correct me if I’m wrong - it’s slotted, correct?
I have the same issue but I have a tube core support that requires some fabricating to hold the center at proper height.
Again, Tony, looks fabulous - well done and congrats!!!! Keep it up - you’re at the short end of the path.
I thought so too and tried. So I'll get at it again. Have to get creative with the approach I guess 🤔
I can use a little advice. When I removed the grills 5 out of the 6 screws snapped off. I figured this would be an issue but I went ahead with cleaning, scuffing every square millimeter etc. Then used adhesion promoter, epoxy and base coat and they came out pretty good. So now the 6th screw snapped while attaching. What should I do? The driver side is 'repaired' using a super glue and baking soda mixture and it 'seems' pretty strong however I don't know if it will hold up. The plastic is obviously brittle being 40 years old. And honestly the way they mount is hokey at best. I'm going to do some modification and glue up this one and when I install it I'm going to somehow attach the stops to the rear of the bumper covers. Has anyone had this problem? I can't be the only one.
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