If your peak HP is at 6700, you need to be shifting more like 7000, not a mere 100 past peak. Maybe even a little higher.
BUILD THREAD 86 GP 2+2~Blown 6.0
- Thread starter 81cutlass
- Start date
I understand your thought behind changing gears, but I think you'll be chasing spinning tires now with more gear ratio.... I would've only changed the shocks and your shift rpm and see what that did. Wholesale changes can be hard to quantify and get settled when done all at the same time.. JMO
If you had a 9" I'd send you my 4.33 spare gear set....
motorheadmike Streetbu
I think these guys are onto something. A lower gear is not going to help traction imo.
I'm in agreement with whomever said it, try the shocks and the additional rpm's before swapping gears. And I don't want to deter you from the gear swap, but be sure that is what is needed.
I think you'd get better bang for your buck with some of these stiff sidewall DOT slicks or similar : https://hoosiertiregp.com/hoosier-quick-time-pro-d-o-t-drag-racing-tire-27-x-10-50-15-lt-17500qtpro/
No matter, whatever you do I'm in for the learning 🙂🙂
I think these guys are onto something. A lower gear is not going to help traction imo.
I'm in agreement with whomever said it, try the shocks and the additional rpm's before swapping gears. And I don't want to deter you from the gear swap, but be sure that is what is needed.
I think you'd get better bang for your buck with some of these stiff sidewall DOT slicks or similar : https://hoosiertiregp.com/hoosier-quick-time-pro-d-o-t-drag-racing-tire-27-x-10-50-15-lt-17500qtpro/
No matter, whatever you do I'm in for the learning 🙂🙂
It's definitely a combination thing.
I agree that a stick car needs a bias ply tire... I cannot begin to express the launch consistency I gained going QTPs - it was night and day over the radials.
But, if he changes the tires, suspension (to match the bias plys), gears, and shift points and gets it all set up properly it should work out fine. There are a lot of compromises currently built into the car. They say making big changes all at once is retarded. But, so is accepting a bunch of compromises and changing nothing. Contradicting philosophies for certain.
Its time to go full retard.
I can attest to suspension helping out way more than I envisioned! It will be interesting to see how this all shakes out.
I am wrapping up my Viking double-adjustable coilovers in the rear (Crusader valving per Trick Chassis) and I'm excited to report back my improvements.
I am wrapping up my Viking double-adjustable coilovers in the rear (Crusader valving per Trick Chassis) and I'm excited to report back my improvements.
I hear you on IAT temp. I have spun it to 6700 once and slowed down but that was due to bat fueling (10.5 afr).
It seems to me more sensitive to ambient air temp than boost pressure or rpm, but I don't have enough data to say for sure. My iat's stay below 160f at 10 or 11.5 psi, I'd be concerned if it creeps above 180f. I can pulley down if it gets worrisome.
Honestly I don't know how much time I loose shifting. Good point, no good answer on my end.
Yes, it is a challenge 😛 I'm excited to get the car consistent and at it's full potential.
Yeah the dyno charts I have seen are peak power pretty much flat from 6600-7000. I want to figure out 6750 shifts before 7k though lol!!
I think I've been leaving a lot of power on the table shifting so early.
I hear you on that. I really don't like making multiple changes at the same time. I'm just in a spot where there aren't many track opportunities left and lots to do.
The gear change is an attempt to get my rpm out of rod bendy territory and avoid the bog about 80ft out when my clutch fully couples.
I do like the shocks + rpm and gears later idea. I was mentally thinking shift rpm and gears have to be done at the same time but they absolutely don't need to be.
Finally, useable 9" parts 😛 not just 5.83 dirt track spools
First time I wish I had a 9!
Totally, I'm up to learn!
My gear change thing is honestly spurred by a cousin of mine who had a centri lt1 T/A stick car years back that exhibited the same things my car does. He went from 3.73 to 4.33 and instantly went from 11.60 to 10.70. He was confident stick cars are much more picky to the correct gears to get the engine in the right rpm range and said to fix that first thing.
The bias dot slick is in my back pocket. I'm happy so far with my clutch slipper and radial but it's 100% on the table.
Abso-fricken-lutely! Throw caution to the wind, and guess in the name of my game haha.
Do you have adjustable viking fronts? Curious the settings your at if you don't mind sharing.
Meth and/or nitrous will solve that.
Open HPTuners and measure the off/on throttle time in your logs. Simple as that to gain a baseline.
When I went from 3.42s to 4.56s in my MCSS it turned a mid-13 second car into a mid-12 second car. Same with Natasha's old B4C going from 3.08s to 4.11s. There is a huge mechanical advantage waiting back there.
If I had the means I would put the Scat Pack/392 TR6060 and 3.90 gears in the HellKitty... the math demands it.
This is what I'm interested to see. A NA car or turbo car builds a ton of torque in the higher rpm range, but Jake's blower puts the power through the roof at 3500 as compared to either.
Personally, I have no idea whether more gear will help, or hopefully not hurt. I have the same lack of knowledge regarding tuning the timing with a blown setup because the tuning mentality is just the opposite of what I'm doing. Meaning, I'm doing everything in my power to cut HP below peak torque (5000) and also trying to let it live for the entire run between 6000-7500. The stick setup makes that a difficult task AFAIC. Basically, despite this being a boosted LS, it's a completely different animal than a turbo with an automatic.
Like I said, I'm down with learning. And it sounds we are all going to learn something about this before long - thanks to 81cutlass .
The entire car is a compromise. It has to be in order to drag race, corner, and street car. The more you optimize one, the more you take away from another.
