Seems we are both shitposting in our own threads today to keep them from being time locked.
BUILD THREAD 86 GP 2+2~Blown 6.0
- Thread starter 81cutlass
- Start date
Senor Rich got around to putting a ford TVS2300 with one of the demuse engineering adapter plates on an LS. Basically the demuse manifold is the same setup I have but I use the Maggie upper and lower tub halves with a maggie cooler and an adapter plate to put the GT500 bolt pattern onto the maggie upper plate, where the demuse kit just uses the maggie lower tub and a billet upper and non maggie water cooler.
I also run a separate 8 rib belt drive off the balancer vs. sharing the 6 rib off the water pump PS and Alt.
He mentions quite a bit about how you should get the cheap M122 & TVS 2300 blowers NOW before the price goes up. I hate to break it to him but the prices went up 5 years ago and honestly are at the point where the swap is cost-prohibitive.
I bought my 1500 mile M122 in 2015 for $200
Ebay takeoff 5.4 M122 are $800-$1500 these days
And Ebay takeoff TVS2300 5.8 13/14 blowers are $2000+ because they are bolt on upgrades for early 5.4 cars and they only made them for 2 years and few people upgrade them anyways because they are so good. I have seen 1 TVS2300 for $1200 I should have bought but it's still a big chunk of $$$ for power I have a hard time using.
He used a bolt on Roush/ford performance TVS2300 for a 5.0 (probably because it got sponsored, delivered at low cost, whatever, but that's probably still a $4k part even without the kit as a service part, and nobody in their right mind is parting out a roush kit or upgrading it.
But, it does make power. He got 650 with 15psi on a high comp L33 5.3 with E85 with tiny throttle body. I run the lq4 6.0 at low comp with 11.5psi and a smaller blower pulley & a 92mm throttle. My M122 is MUCH less of a blower than a TVS2300 despite the bolt pattern and overall size being really close.
But what I see again is that I gotta spin the thing past 6250! I have been shifting at 6250 and my drop RPM was like 3750-4000ish. If I can shift at 6750 my bottom end shift RPM should be at 4500-4750ish which is like an 80hp increase. Comparing apples to oranges a little here but with the table top power curve up top it's more evidence I gotta stop being a wimp! Haha!
It's just TOTALLY NOT WORTH spending $1000-$4000 on a blower plus the probably $2000+ on the demuse kit plus $500 on the maggie lower manifold.
Just put a turbo on the damn thing or spend $8k on a new maggie kit if you want a blower!
I also run a separate 8 rib belt drive off the balancer vs. sharing the 6 rib off the water pump PS and Alt.
He mentions quite a bit about how you should get the cheap M122 & TVS 2300 blowers NOW before the price goes up. I hate to break it to him but the prices went up 5 years ago and honestly are at the point where the swap is cost-prohibitive.
I bought my 1500 mile M122 in 2015 for $200
Ebay takeoff 5.4 M122 are $800-$1500 these days
And Ebay takeoff TVS2300 5.8 13/14 blowers are $2000+ because they are bolt on upgrades for early 5.4 cars and they only made them for 2 years and few people upgrade them anyways because they are so good. I have seen 1 TVS2300 for $1200 I should have bought but it's still a big chunk of $$$ for power I have a hard time using.
He used a bolt on Roush/ford performance TVS2300 for a 5.0 (probably because it got sponsored, delivered at low cost, whatever, but that's probably still a $4k part even without the kit as a service part, and nobody in their right mind is parting out a roush kit or upgrading it.
But, it does make power. He got 650 with 15psi on a high comp L33 5.3 with E85 with tiny throttle body. I run the lq4 6.0 at low comp with 11.5psi and a smaller blower pulley & a 92mm throttle. My M122 is MUCH less of a blower than a TVS2300 despite the bolt pattern and overall size being really close.
But what I see again is that I gotta spin the thing past 6250! I have been shifting at 6250 and my drop RPM was like 3750-4000ish. If I can shift at 6750 my bottom end shift RPM should be at 4500-4750ish which is like an 80hp increase. Comparing apples to oranges a little here but with the table top power curve up top it's more evidence I gotta stop being a wimp! Haha!
It's just TOTALLY NOT WORTH spending $1000-$4000 on a blower plus the probably $2000+ on the demuse kit plus $500 on the maggie lower manifold.
Just put a turbo on the damn thing or spend $8k on a new maggie kit if you want a blower!
Oh, plus, unless you have a CNC and can make a nice GM round to oval blower adapter like I did,
Run a ton of adapter plates with an OEM type throttle body and cut a hole in your hood with ugly adapter plates
Or run an aftermarket computer that can control a Ford DBW setup (that is different than a GM setup) and buy a GT500 or late DBW V10 throttle body which is overprice because it's also an upgrade for 4.6 cars
You are stuck with a $635 DBC throttle.
Yowch.
Run a ton of adapter plates with an OEM type throttle body and cut a hole in your hood with ugly adapter plates
Or run an aftermarket computer that can control a Ford DBW setup (that is different than a GM setup) and buy a GT500 or late DBW V10 throttle body which is overprice because it's also an upgrade for 4.6 cars
You are stuck with a $635 DBC throttle.
Yowch.
I think Holdner is selling out more and more. Unless there is a packaging concern an eBay GT45 is more than capable of achieving the same power or more in this application. Obviously there is a powerband and torque trade off. But, hooking up nearly 700ft/lbs isn't easy on the best of days, and all of that low engine speed cylinder pressure is going to bend rods if the RPM shift drop is wrong. I'd like to see back to back with average power compared between these two "budget" options.
You need to make a dyno pull with that motor clearly past peak and falling off a bit as well, you may end up twisting the thing closer to 7000 than 6750. You won't know until you see what it actually does, then nerd out and thumb drive the pull and horse around on winpep I think it's called to determine your shift RPM. We have a guy who was notorious for short shifting his Mustang. He'd get toward the big end of a straightaway and grab his short 5th shifting at 5000 RPMs. The difference was dramatic, literally anchors away. Start at 2:17
The Mustang is 150# lighter than me, we're both making 260whp. Sure I took turn 3 better than he did, but listen for his car to hit 5th and watch my car eat. I'm just wringing its neck in 4th, can't remember if I hit the rev cut or not. Now imagine you're doing the same as this Mustang on every shift. I think I'm kind of beating a dead horse here, but I wouldn't settle for just guessing that 6750 is the magic number, I'd want to see it in the dyno pull.
The Mustang is 150# lighter than me, we're both making 260whp. Sure I took turn 3 better than he did, but listen for his car to hit 5th and watch my car eat. I'm just wringing its neck in 4th, can't remember if I hit the rev cut or not. Now imagine you're doing the same as this Mustang on every shift. I think I'm kind of beating a dead horse here, but I wouldn't settle for just guessing that 6750 is the magic number, I'd want to see it in the dyno pull.
The TB isn’t the issue - boost will overcome it. Make an adapter to run a stock TPI TB or a 90mm chyna LS TB. You have a machine that makes what you desire.
