Car's back home. Info overload post.
Got the day off so getting hotels reserved for drag weekend and planning out my to do list for the next few weeks.
Throwin' the money tree at the car to get my soft 80-330ft time sorted out. Going to try to spin the engine to 6800 instead of 6250 and tie the front down on launch a bit better.
I've got a set of old comp engineering 90/10 front shocks which although are better than KYB's for drag, the car weighs too much and has too much lift & fall on shifts. I'm sure the comp eng are fine for a gutted auto NA bracket car but a full weight stick car with boost they are too loose and I have issues with the car coming up too fast on the launch (nose goes straight up before the car even starts to move) and the nose falls hard on shifts (too soft on compression) and smacks the bump stops hard so it unloads the rear suspension. More stick car probs.
Grainy video analysis (this was a 1.80 60ft)-
Right before the launch,
Now the rear tire has squatted and the car has moved forward maybe 6 inches but the front suspension is already at full droop
Now I'm maybe half a car out, so sub 10 feet, car is still at full droop on the front suspension
And then maybe 1 car out, and the front has 'collapsed' and is at full compression and has unloaded the rear tire. Combination of too little RPM so out of the power band when the clutch does couple (which i can tune out but thats a lot of slip), and letting the nose come up too easily, hitting travel limit, and then pogo-sticking down. I was able to tune the slip out over maybe 60ft which got my 60ft down, but i just ended up pogo sticking at 80ft out which made my 330 time suck.
And now i'm like 1.5-2 cars out and the nose is up, back to full droop. Granted this video makes it look worse than it is on a 'tuned' clutch slip pass, but shows kinda what I have dealt with
And that's the 60ft light, so the car does all that pogo sticking in like 35-40ft.
The 3.73's are also not correct for my mph. They'd be fine if I had a loose converter and I could live with some converter slip but 0% slip clutch life.... The cam makes peak power at ~6700 but i've been shifting at 6250 for years out of misinformation and i've never had a 60ft worth a crap until last fall so it's never been a concern to run out the back faster when I tireshook, bogged, and broke driveline parts for 3 years. With 3.73 & my 28" tire it will go like 150mph mathematically through the traps at 6800rpm. I don't have 150mph power lol, maybe with a TVS2300 and some baller heads on methanol. I probably have 128mph power tops. 4.30's will put me through the traps at 123mph/6300 rpm and 131mph/6800 rpm so some room to grow if I find power I didn't know I had. Having a .5 OD means it will still cruise 80mph at 2500rpm so no concern there.
Got a set of 4.30 rear gears ordered from QP and Viking DA fronts. See if that solves my issues and gets me from 11.60's to 10.90 ish. The car has run 122mph, and if it weighs 3750 & makes 550hp the calculator says it should go 10.90 @ 123 so things make sense. I'd be happy with that if I can do it at 3 tracks in 3 days. Despite the internet dock (keeping it PG around here, give me a break
) measuring contests, driving a 40 year old car to the track, clicking off a 10, and then driving home these days is still a significant feat. The fact this car has AC, power leather seats & can somewhat turn a corner with a stick is even more of a feat.
Trick chassis FTW again, only place with them in stock.
And inflation sucks (ouch), rears were like $410 shipped to my door last year. The fronts are north of $455 this year to my door. That's honestly not that bad.
