BUILD THREAD 86 GP 2+2~Blown 6.0

81cutlass

Comic Book Super Hero
Feb 16, 2009
4,645
13,561
113
Western MN
Only got 2 passes today because jr. Dragsters invaded the track.

Tuning shocks and tire pressure helps

11.36/123
Highest mph, quickest, 1.61 60ft

Consistent!!
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I think I need stiff wall tires or something. It's fast 60 but I think I'm giving some time up driving over the tire.
21psi and still wrinkling the tires on the front, it's supposed to be in the back.
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wingnutks

Master Mechanic
Feb 15, 2016
420
1,314
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That car is very very close to a 10 second car.

What tires?
 
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81cutlass

Comic Book Super Hero
Feb 16, 2009
4,645
13,561
113
Western MN

wingnutks

Master Mechanic
Feb 15, 2016
420
1,314
93
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64nailhead

Goat Herder
Dec 1, 2014
5,697
1
12,185
113
Upstate NY
What were the rpm’s when you shifted and where did it drop too?

Congrats man - well done!! Hopefully you can top it today!!
 
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81cutlass

Comic Book Super Hero
Feb 16, 2009
4,645
13,561
113
Western MN
And I'm home!

I got home at 8pm and had to eat, shave off my neck beard and shower after living the road life for 5 days.

Car did it's thing and with the exception of a blower belt idler hitting terminal velocity and shooting bits off no repair was needed.

Kinda got blue balled and got a 11.10/126 on the party pulley, 11.5psi.

First 30ft had great traction and fast/smooth but the full brunt of the 11 psi 6.0 600+HP kicked in and spun every time. It still went ok but not a 10.99.

I'll do a better review in a day or two. Had a blast and 126mph is strong!

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64nailhead

Goat Herder
Dec 1, 2014
5,697
1
12,185
113
Upstate NY
Congrats Jake. Maybe not a 10, but dang that's close. And only on 11psi!!

Looking for intake temp and rpm info?
 
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81cutlass

Comic Book Super Hero
Feb 16, 2009
4,645
13,561
113
Western MN
What were the rpm’s when you shifted and where did it drop too?

Congrats man - well done!! Hopefully you can top it today!!

I tried shooting for 7000 shift RPM but not having a proper tach that reads to 7 makes it hard. The original GP tach I use only goes to 6k and using a combination of a shift light and guessing somewhere beyond 6k is what I use and it's not really enough. Just not a consistent way to shift. I need to get ready to shift a few 100 RPM early and I guess to fast most of the time. Looking at my logs I end up shifting at 6600-6800. I remember I had a number of 7k limiter blips when I was at Brainerd a few weeks ago and I tried to avoid that, probably to my fault. The RPM drops to 5000 on shifts when I shift at 6600 roughly so it could get to 5400 if I'd actually shift it at 7000. Power wise I don't think I am giving up much but it's probably more of a longevity/kind to the bottom end thing.

IAT's usually start at 125F at the start of the run and on 10 psi climb to about 165F. On 11.5 psi it climbs to 175-180F. I'm getting near the point where methanol injection or something to cool the charge wouldn't be bad, but as I am already getting deepish into the too-fast for without a cage, I'm not sure it's useful or necessary as I have no desire to cage the car. I also get worried about a stock F body t56 living at 625+hp

I also noticed even though my lugs were tight I'm starting to bend the studs over. These are morosso 12mm press in, I need to pull the rotor off and see if they are bending the axle flange, the stud itself or what??? These axles also have provisions for 1/2-20 screw in studs which I'll probably swap to. I wanted to keep 12mm to match my fronts but apparently I am beyond that point. They also make 14mm studs, I need to see what will fit my Year1 and 15x10 steelies.
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wingnutks

Master Mechanic
Feb 15, 2016
420
1,314
93
Good 1/2" studs will be more than fine. Make sure the wheel face and rotor face are nice n clean and torque down properly.
28mph on the back half is moving.
 
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