BUILD THREAD 86 GP 2+2~Blown 6.0

[64nailhead]

I measure the shocks from loose to tight, meaning I start on the loosest setting. 12 on compression and 4 on rebound.

So your first number is compression (7 from full tight) which I call 11 from loose, correct? And your 11 on rebound is 7 from full loose?

I agree with losing the poly bushings. And I have the UMI supports on the forward a-arm mounts. I also have the lower forward weld in supports too. The UMI supports are a PITA with the ARB mount on the same bolt, but I don’t intend to be removing them any time soon. They need re-torquing after initial install.


I think you’ll be fine with those upgrades and some stiffer shock settings or fine tuning the shocks.


You know my feelings on tire pressure, but a stick vs auto setup probably are way different.

 

[81cutlass]

I measure the shocks from loose to tight, meaning I start on the loosest setting. 12 on compression and 4 on rebound.

So your first number is compression (7 from full tight) which I call 11 from loose, correct? And your 11 on rebound is 7 from full loose?

I agree with losing the poly bushings. And I have the UMI supports on the forward a-arm mounts. I also have the lower forward weld in supports too. The UMI supports are a PITA with the ARB mount on the same bolt, but I don’t intend to be removing them any time soon. They need re-torquing after initial install.


I think you’ll be fine with those upgrades and some stiffer shock settings or fine tuning the shocks.


You know my feelings on tire pressure, but a stick vs auto setup probably are way different.

Yes. If we talk about from full loose-
I'm at 8 compression 12 rebound
You are at 12 compression 4 rebound

I used to also go from full loose on my notes, so my numbers are all in from zero in my head. 8-9 compression, 9-12 rebound.

That translates to 10-11 compression and 7-10 rebound when I go from full tight. I have started to mentally go from full tight because Bruce cited a source that said the shocks tend to have less tolerance at the full-tight side of the range so it's easier to compare and It seems like a lot of other people have got on that train because big power radial cars are so common and people run them really tight.

I had someone with DR2's say they run a much faster but similar weight car at 3 from full tight. Basically these DR2's are really sticky and a great tire but aren't as forgiving as a M/T. It seems like M/T will spin where the Hoosier DR2 will grab but the sidewall is a lot less stiff. A car with DR2's is going to need more tire pressure (20) and stiffer shock setting than a comparable M/T SS or ET Pro style tire (15 psi) and softer shock setting.

 

[64nailhead]

I had someone with DR2's say they run a much faster but similar weight car at 3 from full tight. Basically these DR2's are really sticky and a great tire but aren't as forgiving as a M/T. It seems like M/T will spin where the Hoosier DR2 will grab but the sidewall is a lot less stiff. A car with DR2's is going to need more tire pressure (20) and stiffer shock setting than a comparable M/T SS or ET Pro style tire (15 psi) and softer shock setting.

Your comment above made me shudder haha. I've spent well over a year trying to dial in my car, and the thoughts of a different tire requiring starting from scratch with tire pressure and shock settings - oofa ;( Mix that in with trying to dial in on a relatively poorly prepped track on test and tune day vs. a well prepped track has also created a lot of issues for myself.

 

[81cutlass]

Your comment above made me shudder haha. I've spent well over a year trying to dial in my car, and the thoughts of a different tire requiring starting from scratch with tire pressure and shock settings - oofa ;( Mix that in with trying to dial in on a relatively poorly prepped track on test and tune day vs. a well prepped track has also created a lot of issues for myself.

100%

I also had someone on the FB question say that my tires are likely shot (sidewall). Maybe he's used to 8sec and faster stuff that actually kills the sidewall but it made me think.

So I'm split, do I go to a ET pro or SS M/T and refine that tire? Do I stay with the DR2? Do I want to mess around with pressure and suspension AGAIN?

The idea of fixing problems with a tire makes me think about it, but the idea all my old data, however problematic, goes away scares me.

 

[Supercharged111]

100%

I also had someone on the FB question say that my tires are likely shot (sidewall). Maybe he's used to 8sec and faster stuff that actually kills the sidewall but it made me think.

So I'm split, do I go to a ET pro or SS M/T and refine that tire? Do I stay with the DR2? Do I want to mess around with pressure and suspension AGAIN?

The idea of fixing problems with a tire makes me think about it, but the idea all my old data, however problematic, goes away scares me.

How much of a nutkick is a pair of tires? Last I recall yours are multiple seasons old, I'd be shocked if a new version of the same thing wouldn't be an improvement.

 

[Streetbu]

Here's the deal, a different tire may help things, it might also hurt things, you can either stay with the devil you know, or go with the devil you don't. And if you go with a different brand, plan on trying them ALL out, because most likely you will end up doing just that. JMO

 

[64nailhead]

This conversation can turn really expensive in a hurry. Before you know it, Jake has 2 or 3 sets of tires that he has ‘tried’, with varying results. At that point Jake might, and probably will, determine that he needs better geometry in his rear suspension (more parts, time and $.) But he has already invested about $1k in tires that he should’ve spent elsewhere.

I don’t think Jake has no budget, but I’m pretty confident that he doesn’t have an unlimited budget either. There is a compromise that has to be understood in terms of budget and goals. The result, in regards to different aspects of the build, turns into ‘run what you brung’ with some parts and make the best of it (maximize what you have.)

In the 2 paragraphs above- insert my name in place of Jake’s. I battle with these kind of questions - what is the best money spent to achieve my goal?

It sucks balls that Jake doesn’t have a local track that he could get to more frequently for more hits, more data.



If his tires have life left in them, then I’d recommend having a plan to get a new set of tires next year in the middle of the season after seeing what his winter upgrades have accomplished.

My $.02 a please take no offense 😉

 

[81cutlass]

Took the thing out for a short drive yesterday, yup, it's November

And fixed my non functional radio antenna.

The plug side of the antenna was rusted to the socket and when I pulled the fender off it pulled the cable out of the crimp. I've had reservations buying a new one because I'm not sure if the ends are the same, what I need, etc.

I cut the ends off a car at the yard and gave it a shot to solder it back together.

I did my best to cut the crimp off, twisted the old cable and replacement end cables together and soldered, stripped the excess shielding off the cable and put it back.

Good thing, it works, until I decide what antenna base I need and pull the fender off when I paint it, it's good enough.

Heat shrink is the Bondo of the electrical world.

 

[81cutlass]

Free, but tedious suspension stuff. Hopefully to fix my breaking parts issue that emerged again.

One of my concerns from tire shake cause is that I was maxing my suspension travel out on extension in the launch and the inertia of the body was pulling the tire off the track just barely.

I checked my shock travel relative to the suspension travel and found out from Normal ride height I had 4" of travel in compression, but only 3" to the bump stop. I also had 3" of travel before the shock bottomed out in full extension. The 1" of shock travel at full compression is totally worthless so I set about moving the shock bolt up 3/4" so I gain some travel in extension.

3/4" seems like not worth it, but it's literally 25% of extension travel increase so it's significant.

It would be much easier to just drill a new hole 3/4" up, but as I have OEM lower mounts that are stamped, nothing is straight.

So turn a 3/4" OD bushing with 1/2-20 tapped ID .7" long and drill a 3/4" crappy oval hole in the LCA brackets, I'll weld it in tomorrow.

To the bump stop

Exposed travel in comp at ride height

And what I want to make up

Make a weld in nut

And in place

 

[Supercharged111]

I spaced the rear shocks in my Camaro to gain about that much in droop and it was a game changer. Don't sleep on it cuz it sounds insignificant.