persistence pays off brother,you'll be glad you did.in the warmer weather use a little less hardener and it'll give you the more work time you need.temperature is king.their "correct mix ratio" has to be based in some idealistic fantasy land body shop environment.every summer it takes me about a week to dial it back to hotter work environment.
BUILD THREAD 87 Cutlass EFI build: 9/13/23..NEW STUFF!
- Thread starter Injectedcutty
- Start date
After fixing my Cub Cadet's steering shaft bushing I got after it and sanded some more. I had to mix up a bit more glaze so I used less hardener and it helped to give me more working time. I'm pretty sure I've got it nailed too, but again ran out of light to sand. I'm not making a sanding mess in my garage, there's just not much room. Still need to finish it up with 180, then 220 and 320, and 400 so I can reprime.
You can go 180 320 prime then 400 that's how I roll
What'd I tell ya?? That thing was a lot of fun, huh? Actually isn't terrible, just a PITA if you don't have a mini-lift
It wasn't bad. I tried to do the repair without dropping the deck, but no bueno. So off came the deck. The repair was quick, and it handles WAY better and actually steers like it should.
I've heard of busting a nut laughing . . . you actually busted a nut! Not sure I've seen that before? But figures, it's half height and likely pot metal crap.
It's magnetic, so steel of some sort. It's a common fail point on Cub Cadet mowers. Luckily it wasn't hard to change.
Yeah, I think it's a cast iron piece or something. Might be made of the same alloy as Rktpwrd 's trim. 🙂 Cubbies must've been built on the same assembly lines as the G-bodies I think. Rickety body part alignmnent, so-so quality construction, and there's SO many opportunities to make things better.
If you had this maintenance planned, it would probably have been good to inspect/change the drive belt to the transmission while you were under there. Assuming you inspected it. Those belts tend to crack inside. Tip on replacing that--- the manuals tell you to pull the clutch off the bottom of the engine...I just removed the 4 motor mount bolts and moved the entire engine to help get the new belt on. Old belt was broken so no issue getting that off.
Carry on, I'm waiting to see those wheel wells.
I've taken a small hiatus on the wheelwell prep to address the brake switch conundrum for the 4L80E TCC control.
With that problem solved I figured I'd start trimming the new carpet since it has to be done anyways. Put a new blade in my knife and got after it. The driver side is pretty much done for now...might need some adjusting once interior panels get installed. The powdercoater sill plate lined up to the new holes and I think it looks perfect!
Now to determine whether to get a shiny steering wheel or a black one????
The street rod Nationals are in town, gonna take my 9 year old friday to gawk around and try to pick up some freebies and some odd and end parts that are usually cheaper.
With that problem solved I figured I'd start trimming the new carpet since it has to be done anyways. Put a new blade in my knife and got after it. The driver side is pretty much done for now...might need some adjusting once interior panels get installed. The powdercoater sill plate lined up to the new holes and I think it looks perfect!
Now to determine whether to get a shiny steering wheel or a black one????
The street rod Nationals are in town, gonna take my 9 year old friday to gawk around and try to pick up some freebies and some odd and end parts that are usually cheaper.
Having my 4l80e rebuilt as we speak. what conundrum are you having? What are you using to control it?
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