BUILD THREAD 87 Cutlass EFI build: 9/13/23..NEW STUFF!

[Rktpwrd]

The finished product is determined by the sanding done post spray. Turner's response is pretty accurate. I'm gonna test it on some spare pieces to get the look I want before hammering down.

Scott, I would use a painter’s blend technique where you fan the spray off at an angle at the ends of your passes.
This will gently disperse the texture off at the outer edges making the repaired area virtually invisible. I think using this method would eliminate the need for post-spraying sanding. The outer edges might have a little dry spray feel to them afterwards, but that’s not really a big deal because you’re going to be painting/dyeing the whole thing anyways. The paint/dye will cover the dry spray feeling.

Just a suggestion to help make the difference in textures indistinguishable.

 

[88AZSS]

I've been following this on your Instagram as well, I'm glad that the rear bar came out pretty clean. Are you planning on painting it at all or just leaving it as is?

 

[Injectedcutty]

Scott, I would use a painter’s blend technique where you fan the spray off at an angle at the ends of your passes.
This will gently disperse the texture off at the outer edges making the repaired area virtually invisible. I think using this method would eliminate the need for post-spraying sanding. The outer edges might have a little dry spray feel to them afterwards, but that’s not really a big deal because you’re going to be painting/dyeing the whole thing anyways. The paint/dye will cover the dry spray feeling.

Just a suggestion to help make the difference in textures indistinguishable.

D, thanks for that tip man! That sounds like a totally doable method. I'll test it out first to get the "feel" right. Truly appreciate you chiming in with real world knowledge and experience, thanks buddy!

 

[Texas82GP]

I stopped by the paint supply store to get some SEM chip guard for the dash repair, and discovered something potentially better! They have a flexible textured coating that is designed more for dashes, bumpers, etc. and it's already black!
It wasn't cheap as SEM is typically proud of their products anyways, but I think this might be the fix. It still needs scuffing or sanding after application to get the right effect, we'll see how it goes.View attachment 127229

I tried that stuff on a piece of interior trim (the piece that overlaps the back of the door opening and also overlaps the upper and lower sail panel trim). The piece was badly sun damaged (pitted). I wasn't happy with the results. Test that stuff on something else first and play with it. I hope you have better luck than I did. I was probably asking too much of it and my technique probably didn't help.

 

[Injectedcutty]

I've been following this on your Instagram as well, I'm glad that the rear bar came out pretty clean. Are you planning on painting it at all or just leaving it as is?

Thanks for following along. Gonna be painted as I couldn't live with myself by just bolting it on. I want to have the bar powder coated, but that sorta defeats the junkyard swap mentality on this piece.
That being said, the hardware and brackets will go gloss black to match the rearend housing and undercarriage and should just blend in. The bar will get a hammered finish to match all the BMR parts already on the car.

 

[Longroof79]

SEM makes a clear texture coating. I've used it on some of my interior plastics like the rear tailgate panel. It does help hide where some repairs were made, like filling gouges, etc. but it leaves more of a pebble finish rather than a grainy finish. As you said, SEM is proud of their products, and the prices certainly reflect that.

Btw, you gotta love hammertone paint. They are pretty durable. I've never tried spraying it from the quart can....thinned, of course. I think out of the quart, the paint is more durable than the spray can. I've painted all my front control arms...and rear lowers, too. It just doesn't seem to last, which was rather disappointing.
Perhaps I didn't lay it on heavy enough.

 

[Rktpwrd]

D, thanks for that tip man! That sounds like a totally doable method. I'll test it out first to get the "feel" right. Truly appreciate you chiming in with real world knowledge and experience, thanks buddy!

Anytime man.
👍🏻

 

[Injectedcutty]

SEM makes a clear texture coating. I've used it on some of my interior plastics like the rear tailgate panel. It does help hide where some repairs were made, like filling gouges, etc. but it leaves more of a pebble finish rather than a grainy finish. As you said, SEM is proud of their products, and the prices certainly reflect that.

Btw, you gotta love hammertone paint. They are pretty durable. I've never tried spraying it from the quart can....thinned, of course. I think out of the quart, the paint is more durable than the spray can. I've painted all my front control arms...and rear lowers, too. It just doesn't seem to last, which was rather disappointing.
Perhaps I didn't lay it on heavy enough.

Yeah Jack, I'm curious to see how the hammered paint holds up. The only real experience I have using it was painting a mailbox and small table for our porch. I did them 8 or 9 years ago, the table still looks good but the mailbox started peeling within a couple years and it wasn't directly in the weather.
However, I've learned alot since then in regards to prepping surfaces so we'll see how it goes. If it doesn't hold up then I'll splurge and have it powdercoated.

 

[Longroof79]

Yeah Jack, I'm curious to see how the hammered paint holds up. The only real experience I have using it was painting a mailbox and small table for our porch. I did them 8 or 9 years ago, the table still looks good but the mailbox started peeling within a couple years and it wasn't directly in the weather.
However, I've learned alot since then in regards to prepping surfaces so we'll see how it goes. If it doesn't hold up then I'll splurge and have it powdercoated.

Scott,
Other than painting my control arms, etc. I always liked the look of hammertone paint. I have repainted one of my toolboxes years back and it seems to hold up pretty well, except for a few chips here and there. I also painted my bench vise, but it took a beating and got all chipped up. They say you can paint right over rust with it and it will bond to the rusty surface...which means, no primer required. I believe the paint has, if i'm not mistaken, glass in it. I'll have to look that up again.

 

[JAMCAR223]

I'm going with a custom setup on the end links I bought today. These have weld brackets which is bad news for me, but gonna have my neighbor weld some flat plates to them to essentially have a U shaped bracket. Then I'll have another flat piece above the crossmember brace that'll be bolted together. It's similar to the UMI setup, just WAY less expensive!View attachment 127217

Where did you get the end links from?