I believe they are copies of the stock units Chris. On teardown, I marked the shim locations, and even matched the new tie rod lengths to the old ones to get it close. It's not off much, but definitely needs some more negative camber.
BUILD THREAD 87 Cutlass EFI build: 9/13/23..NEW STUFF!
- Thread starter Injectedcutty
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Cool beans dude. You'll never get rid of that whistle NA due to the overly large TB for the engine. As you mentioned, the IAC is working overtime.
If you had a smaller (stock) TB, then that noise will be gone. Or install a Taiwan transmission trasher and it'll be muffled
Edit - I didn't notice there were another 2 pages of posts after the running video - oops.
I read a couple of the other posts and there is an excellent chance that those guys are onto something, but I've never been able to lose that sound via an IAC change. I'll bet if you crack the TB open about 1-2 %, then the sound is gone. But the idle is higher.
I say live with it, then you'll know when your motor is running vs everyone else's.
If you had a smaller (stock) TB, then that noise will be gone. Or install a Taiwan transmission trasher and it'll be muffled
Edit - I didn't notice there were another 2 pages of posts after the running video - oops.
I read a couple of the other posts and there is an excellent chance that those guys are onto something, but I've never been able to lose that sound via an IAC change. I'll bet if you crack the TB open about 1-2 %, then the sound is gone. But the idle is higher.
I say live with it, then you'll know when your motor is running vs everyone else's.
Its needs a Hiroshima hair dryer, to change the tone of the whistle.
Mine doesnt whistle, but I have a crusty junkyard IAC with 200k on it. Must be the shine on yours causing it. 😉
Mine doesnt whistle, but I have a crusty junkyard IAC with 200k on it. Must be the shine on yours causing it. 😉
Camber/caster? All of it. Seriously as much as possible. 0 toe.
But yes, you need a Wuhan Whirlybird.
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I bought upper arms and tall ball joints from Southside machine performance, this is what they say to set everything at.
You can definitely set the toe and center the steering wheel with a tape measure but it would be easier with a helper. We used this to align the front end on the Camaro and the Galaxie...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PKI0YSU/?tag=gbody-20
I'll use it on the Roadmaster soon. Since your neighbor probably has something even more sophisticated, it's worth just waiting for him rather than spending the money.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PKI0YSU/?tag=gbody-20
I'll use it on the Roadmaster soon. Since your neighbor probably has something even more sophisticated, it's worth just waiting for him rather than spending the money.
We set the Camaro to the factory specifications in the shop manual. It's a street car. We're happy with it.
I agree with getting as much caster in as you can, but I could only get about 3.25⁰ on the factory crossshafts- no shims in front, rear bolts as far out as I was comfortable with (left a thread). I'm about-.5⁰ camber.
Yeah he has all the tools to do it since he sets the circle track cars all the time. He'll be back the 2and week of March so I'll be ready for him.
You can do a redneck string alignment fairly easily with 2 jackstands and a tape measure. That's how I did mine. Caster and camber was a Fastrax..
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