BUILD THREAD 87 Cutlass EFI build: 9/13/23..NEW STUFF!

[Texas82GP]

I really like those Tick Performance guys. We are using their 4th gen F body clutch master cylinder on my brother's 78 Z28. I'm excited for you buddy. A twin turbo 5.3 will be a beast. Since it is an LM7 you should shift at 6000 or less. Supposedly the rod bolts are a little less strong on the early motors. Mine shifts at 6000 and it is plenty NA.

 

[Injectedcutty]

I really like those Tick Performance guys. We are using their 4th gen F body clutch master cylinder on my brother's 78 Z28. I'm excited for you buddy. A twin turbo 5.3 will be a beast. Since it is an LM7 you should shift at 6000 or less. Supposedly the rod bolts are a little less strong on the early motors. Mine shifts at 6000 and it is plenty NA.

Thanks again Jared....i enjoy getting these new parts in and you've helped a ton so far with sourcing and such! The guys at Tick are pretty legit, i bugged the crap out of them last Thursday, made some decisions, ordered the cam and got a discount and free shipping to boot! The cam was freshly ground and shipped direct from Cam Motion and got here today!
I called BTR since they are literally 30 minutes from me, but didn't feel the same service was used. I'm new to the LS, but not a dumbass and have been around some pretty rowdy engines, seemed like they (BTR) was trying to change my direction for me to more of a drag style turbo cam setup.
I wanted to sit the cam on the table and just look at it, but the wife prolly wouldn't have understood, so it was put back in the box and stored safely until the rest of my parts arrive to button this thing up.

Once I have all the parts, i might shoot you a PM about the loaner tool service so i can assemble this beast!

 

[motorheadmike]

http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-performance-turbo-stage-1-camshaft-for-4-8l-5-3l-engines/

That isn't exactly the cam I would have chosen for the application.

Personally I would have gone with more duration on both sides aiming for the favourable 6-8* split, and maybe a bit less lift on the intake side. I do see 113-115 LSA as being a good range.

Some info:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generati...mendation-needed-5-3-tt-550-650whp-range.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generati...e/1865721-overlap-valve-events-editorial.html

 

[motorheadmike]

I called BTR since they are literally 30 minutes from me, but didn't feel the same service was used. I'm new to the LS, but not a dumbass and have been around some pretty rowdy engines, seemed like they (BTR) was trying to change my direction for me to more of a drag style turbo cam setup.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/ls1tech-...64-do-vendors-btr-have-too-much-business.html

Yeah, **** those guys. I will never try to deal with them directly again.

 

[Injectedcutty]

http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-performance-turbo-stage-1-camshaft-for-4-8l-5-3l-engines/

That isn't exactly the cam I would have chosen for the application.

Personally I would have gone with more duration on both sides aiming for the favourable 6-8* split, and maybe a bit less lift on the intake side. I do see 113-115 LSA as being a good range.

Some info:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generati...mendation-needed-5-3-tt-550-650whp-range.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generati...e/1865721-overlap-valve-events-editorial.html

Mike, i appreciate the info given. I've spent alot of time recently looking at turbo specific cams, specs, etc. I agree, the intake lift is healthy, but it should have a nice chug to it! I'm not planning on running a big single, instead most likely two 60-66mm max turbos.

I wanna keep the compressor outlet at 3" to aid in better downpipe size routing. After talking to several companies about end goal results, streetability options, etc, this cam seems to fit the bill....time will tell though! I'm anxious to see how it does!

 

[Texas82GP]

What color are you going to paint the block? Is it a surprise?

 

[Injectedcutty]

What color are you going to paint the block? Is it a surprise?

Purple 😀!!! Honestly Jared, no surprises here...I've been tossing color combos around in my noodle all week. The guy that does my powder work has a color damn near spot on to my exterior paint color.

The block will most likely be black, with some gunmetal accents here and there i believe. As said, not 100% yet...but that's the scheme I'm looking at. I might draw up an LS, make a couple copies and render it in a couple different color combos. I wanna try to keep it similar to the gen1 so that it doesn't look out of place.

Any ideas, feel free to share!

 

[Injectedcutty]

I really like those Tick Performance guys. We are using their 4th gen F body clutch master cylinder on my brother's 78 Z28. I'm excited for you buddy. A twin turbo 5.3 will be a beast. Since it is an LM7 you should shift at 6000 or less. Supposedly the rod bolts are a little less strong on the early motors. Mine shifts at 6000 and it is plenty NA.

Meant to mention yesterday, I'm thinking about switching the rod bolts out to ARP's. There just over $100, but would give peace of mind spinning the 5.3 above 6k. I've seen the stock rod bolts hold up under boost, but like most of us, i don't have an unlimited budget to just "test" the bolts and blow the rods out the side of the block.

 

[TURNA]

PURPLE?!?!?!?!?!? OH NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[motorheadmike]

Mike, i appreciate the info given. I've spent alot of time recently looking at turbo specific cams, specs, etc. I agree, the intake lift is healthy, but it should have a nice chug to it! I'm not planning on running a big single, instead most likely two 60-66mm max turbos.

I wanna keep the compressor outlet at 3" to aid in better downpipe size routing. After talking to several companies about end goal results, streetability options, etc, this cam seems to fit the bill....time will tell though! I'm anxious to see how it does!

Honestly, I am not completely convinced they are looking at this properly with respect to your goals.

If you are planning to run an unported 241/241/799/317 type casting with boost and conservative RPM levels there is no benefit to running a cam with lift that is beyond the as-cast peak flow figures, in fact what you want is a cam that spends more time at/below that peak number in the low and mid flow lift ranges (every time the valve opens and closes it sweeps through these area twice) to better fill the cylinders. The longer you hang the valve open (duration) the more air and fuel you can combust. The exhaust ports on the stock castings are a bit of a choke point, hence the need to favour them in an NA application. Add in turbos and the backpressure considerations between the valve, manifold, turbine housing and wheel, downpipe and mufflers - you may find that the narrow split isn't enough even in a 5.3L.

Buying a shelf cam for a custom build isn't the best solution - it is just an opportunity for Tick to move inventory off the shelf at your expense. I believe a custom cam from a guy like Martin Smallwood (who left Tick to strike out on his own) or Kip Fabre at Cam Motion would have netted a different result.

Without knowing exactly which head you are going to choose I would see a 222/230 .590/.585 114+3 cam to be more suited to your goals for a typical cathedral port head on a 5.3L - it would be as smooth as glass.

That being said, and for the sake of comparison, I am putting a 226/230 .605"/.609" 113+3 in my little turbo 4.8L - it is going to be pretty raunchy; and our LS1 has a 228/234 .624"/.614" 112+3 in it.