87 Monte Carlo SS aerocoupe -2nd chance-

[-83MONTESS-]

For your interior paint can't you find a SEM color to match? Those are only $13 a can.
I get mine either from a local Painter's Supply or Summit if I am ordering over $99 worth of other stuff.
Also just a reminder as you are probably already doing this but make sure anytime you add welded bracing that it will not interfere with anything on the body when it goes back on. I have seen people do this and forget they have rear footwells or a spare tire well, never a good outcome.
Coming along nicely though!

SEM doesn't have a match for the claret maroon color. I wish they did because we have a dealer local. $18 for each can and $14 just to ship the damn thing sucks. After a few hours of digging online it seemed clear that Mike's Montes was the place to get it.

Since I have my 83 still together when it comes to the frame and suspension I used that as a guide when making my braces. I will have to change the way I plan on putting a crossmember in the rear because I want to use a factory fuel tank on this build whereas the 83 has a fuel cell in the trunk.

 

[pontiacgp]

I thought the Aero's all came with a grey interior...

 

[-83MONTESS-]

I thought the Aero's all came with a grey interior...

Nope. I'm pretty sure they had the regular SS color options.

 

[pontiacgp]

Nope. I'm pretty sure they had the regular SS color options.

I must have been thinking of the Pontiac version.

 

[-83MONTESS-]

Got some updates. My rear tires came in. The are M/T 28x11.5 ET Streets. I got them mounted on the wheels and tried to fit them on the 83. Definately gonna need the notch! Might also have to do some serious massaging to the wheel tubs since the car is lowered 2" in the rear. Thought about picking up some aftermarket tubs from Summit for $90.

I also got bored and decided to add more bracing to the rear of the frame. Not sure how productive it will be but it's better than nothing I guess.

My buddy keeps slacking on picking the frame up to finish the welds so im gonna see if I can make this little 110 MIG work. Im gonna try pre-heating the steel before I do it. My welder didnt have a problem penetrating but the first inch or so of each bead I can tell isnt getting hot enough. The wire just sits on the metal. I figure if I heat the sh*t out of it and start the weld I should be good to go.

Once the frame welding is done progress should really pick up. I can get it painted and then start assembly. Since I have every part I need it should come together quick.

 

[Rktpwrd]

Im gonna try pre-heating the steel before I do it. My welder didnt have a problem penetrating but the first inch or so of each bead I can tell isnt getting hot enough. The wire just sits on the metal. I figure if I heat the sh*t out of it and start the weld I should be good to go.

I know what you mean about the weld sitting on top for the first inch or so. With the smaller welders, the amperage just isn't there to get good penetration until you've run a bit of a bead.

Rather than spending a bunch of time trying to preheat the metal (which isn't good to do to avoid warpage anyways), if you can, try bevelling that first inch or so of the edges of the material with a grinder.

This does two things for you. Allows for a recess or valley for the weld to sit in (which increases strength) and also makes the edges of the material thinner allowing you better penetration earlier.

This is common practice in welding thicker materials. When bevelling the edges, shoot for a 1/4 to 1/2 the thickness of the material.

Of course, if you're not able to access the edges for bevelling before welding, this method won't help you much. But if you can, it's the best way to go.

HTH.
Donovan

 

[HAFROD]

Make sure your using a fat extension cord on that mig unless its plugged directly into the socket. Regular extension cords kill power for the migs. The shorter the better. The flux core 110 welders are hotter than the gas migs. I learned all this in a welding coarse I took. I would not be afraid one bit using that little mig on your bracing. Slow your wire speed and it will get hot enough. Flux core requires slower speed and VERY clean bare metal. If you stop running a bead before finishing, wire brush the area. I used a flux core Lincoln and a Hobart for the first 7 years of my restorations. I noticed on the Hobart that doing small continuous cursive circles, it laid down a hell of a nice bead. Donovans correct about beveling edges. This is common practice on all welding but hot flux core welder and beveled thin wall steel will be hole blowing city. Lol. Loving this build brother.

 

[HAFROD]

Also on your interior trim and vinyl paint, your local paint mixing store should be able to mix your vinyl/plastic paint. I took my arm rest to my local paint store several years ago to mix that dark maroon on my 87 SS. I got a quart and it was around $80. It was a custom mix. I wish I'd got a half gallon for touch ups and extra. I just had a gallon custom mixed for my Salon cause I had all different colors of used good interior trim from just about every G body model out there. Lol. Another tidbit, they may ask you what gloss you want in the trim paint. I always get low gloss. If its glossy, it does not look correct. Kinda like someone used gloss Krylon. Lol

 

[565bbchevy]

Make sure you leave enough room for your exhaust to get over the axle with your added bracing.

 

[-83MONTESS-]

Make sure your using a fat extension cord on that mig unless its plugged directly into the socket. Regular extension cords kill power for the migs. The shorter the better. The flux core 110 welders are hotter than the gas migs. I learned all this in a welding coarse I took. I would not be afraid one bit using that little mig on your bracing. Slow your wire speed and it will get hot enough. Flux core requires slower speed and VERY clean bare metal. If you stop running a bead before finishing, wire brush the area. I used a flux core Lincoln and a Hobart for the first 7 years of my restorations. I noticed on the Hobart that doing small continuous cursive circles, it laid down a hell of a nice bead. Donovans correct about beveling edges. This is common practice on all welding but hot flux core welder and beveled thin wall steel will be hole blowing city. Lol. Loving this build brother.

I think that's whats been killing me is the extension cord. I will move the frame somewhere to where I can get the welder right next to an outlet. There is no wire speed adjustment on this one. Really no adjustment at all except the 4 steel thickness settings. Right now im on the highest setting 3/16"ths I believe. I will grind everything down and try again.

Also on your interior trim and vinyl paint, your local paint mixing store should be able to mix your vinyl/plastic paint. I took my arm rest to my local paint store several years ago to mix that dark maroon on my 87 SS. I got a quart and it was around $80. It was a custom mix. I wish I'd got a half gallon for touch ups and extra. I just had a gallon custom mixed for my Salon cause I had all different colors of used good interior trim from just about every G body model out there. Lol. Another tidbit, they may ask you what gloss you want in the trim paint. I always get low gloss. If its glossy, it does not look correct. Kinda like someone used gloss Krylon. Lol

I got the dash, console, and door pulls painted already. Everything else is already the correct color. I wish I would have thought about mixing the color before I spent $90 on spray paint. Atleast it's a dead on match and sprays nice.

Make sure you leave enough room for your exhaust to get over the axle with your added bracing.

Im not gonna run tailpipes on this. As much as I want to I just don't see it as a priority. I will change the turndowns I have off the muffler to something that comes to the side of the car a little more but still isn't visible. It sounds weird but I never liked the tailpipe locations of these cars.