Bear with me please. I'm not an electrician, but I can usually maneuver the G-body circuits fairly well. I would like to keep this as simple as I can make it.
GOAL: Add the W-body RKE module in a inconspicuous spot (above the glovebox high under the dash most likely) and use the key fobs to lock and unlock both locks at the same time, and flash the park/tails/markers when locks cycle either lock or unlock. Also, to be able to retain full functionality of the door mounted switches. Basically, if it weren't for the key fob, you'd never know the car had RKE.
Here's some diagrams from the GM 85 Olds Electrical Service Manuals, except where noted.
Light Green Wire: Will be hooked 12 volt supply
Black Wire, White tracer: Ignore this wire. The factory system uses this to operate the power trunk from the interior button. Ours will still work regardless.
Pink wire: Ignore this wire. This is an ignition wire I think the factory uses to disable RKE while the ignition is on and shut off the dome lamp. We don't need it.
Orange Wire Will be hooked to 12 volt supply
Dark Blue wire: Ignore. All this wire does is turn on the dome lamp for a period of time when you press the unlock button. The dome lamp is going to turn on when you open the door, so I don't see the point. If someone wants to go all out, I think it would be neat to wire this to a relay that turns on the headlamps or park lamps or whatever you wanted so the car would have an illuminated entry like new cars do. I just left it alone. Maybe someday.
Grey Wire: This will be wired to the trunk release actuator(if applicable).
Black Wire: This will be hooked to ground.
Tan Wire: This will be hooked to the left door lock actuator wire near door lock relay
White Wire This will be hooked to the unlock wire at the door lock relay
Light blue wire: This will be hooked to the lock wire a the door lock relay.
Headlamp switch details:
Potential relay idea. I drew this in Paint real fast. The relays would simply cycle with the lock or unlock button to flash the lights. I think. That's the idea anyway.
RKE module wiring diagram and wire by wire hook up description credit to: http://www.montecarloss.com/community/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=975362#Post975362
All this looks fairly straightforward. My idea is to add RKE to my 85 442. One thing I haven't found out yet is if the Dark Blue wire for the interior lamps is just a momentary switch that relies on a constant supply from the timer (from the W-body) to keep the light lit? Or does it stay closed for a minute or two keeping the dome light lit for a while? If it's just momentary as you click the lock/unlock button, I'd be all for that as I could get away with just one relay to flash the lights. Otherwise, I'm likely going to have to wire in a couple relays to the lock and unlock circuits. Sad part is it will flash EVERY light on the car but the headlights/interior dome lights.
I have a new GM VKE 1000 kit I could use, but the instructions aren't all that user friendly, and this W-body module seems very easy in comparison.
On the Cutlass, the headlamp switch gets fuse fed from an orange wire (taillamp fuse), and the outlet goes to all the marker, turn sig and rear lamps get fed from a brown wire.
I figure if I hooked up a relay or two to bypass the headlamp switch and got momentary signal with the RKE when I pressed the fob lock or unlock, I could get the flashing indicators I seek.
Also, the recommended set up seems to separate the right and left power door lock motors by cutting one of the tan double wires coming out of the car's door lock relay, if you hook it up per the monte carlo site instructions. If I read this right, the schematics then take out the driver side unlock feature from the door mounted switch? The only way to unlock the LH side is via the keyfob. Any wire-biters out there confirm/debunk my wiring diagram-reading skills?
Since I don't care about the single door opening feature by splitting the car's tan wires to the door lock motors, I want to maintain both factory installed switch functions. So I was thinking I could not cut the tan wires from the original relay, simply attach the white and light blue wires to the unlock and lock wires at the relay, and use the tan wire instead to feed the unlock relay to the lamps, and tap off the light blue wire for the lock side and run it to the other relay. Or would I need to hit the unlock button twice to get the doors to unlock? Maybe use the tan wire from RKE for both locks, and tap off that to the lamp relays, and not use the white at all?
This stuff fries my brain.
What do y'all think? Anyone see something I'm missing or need to consider?
GOAL: Add the W-body RKE module in a inconspicuous spot (above the glovebox high under the dash most likely) and use the key fobs to lock and unlock both locks at the same time, and flash the park/tails/markers when locks cycle either lock or unlock. Also, to be able to retain full functionality of the door mounted switches. Basically, if it weren't for the key fob, you'd never know the car had RKE.
Here's some diagrams from the GM 85 Olds Electrical Service Manuals, except where noted.
Light Green Wire: Will be hooked 12 volt supply
Black Wire, White tracer: Ignore this wire. The factory system uses this to operate the power trunk from the interior button. Ours will still work regardless.
Pink wire: Ignore this wire. This is an ignition wire I think the factory uses to disable RKE while the ignition is on and shut off the dome lamp. We don't need it.
Orange Wire Will be hooked to 12 volt supply
Dark Blue wire: Ignore. All this wire does is turn on the dome lamp for a period of time when you press the unlock button. The dome lamp is going to turn on when you open the door, so I don't see the point. If someone wants to go all out, I think it would be neat to wire this to a relay that turns on the headlamps or park lamps or whatever you wanted so the car would have an illuminated entry like new cars do. I just left it alone. Maybe someday.
Grey Wire: This will be wired to the trunk release actuator(if applicable).
Black Wire: This will be hooked to ground.
Tan Wire: This will be hooked to the left door lock actuator wire near door lock relay
White Wire This will be hooked to the unlock wire at the door lock relay
Light blue wire: This will be hooked to the lock wire a the door lock relay.
Headlamp switch details:
Potential relay idea. I drew this in Paint real fast. The relays would simply cycle with the lock or unlock button to flash the lights. I think. That's the idea anyway.
RKE module wiring diagram and wire by wire hook up description credit to: http://www.montecarloss.com/community/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=975362#Post975362
All this looks fairly straightforward. My idea is to add RKE to my 85 442. One thing I haven't found out yet is if the Dark Blue wire for the interior lamps is just a momentary switch that relies on a constant supply from the timer (from the W-body) to keep the light lit? Or does it stay closed for a minute or two keeping the dome light lit for a while? If it's just momentary as you click the lock/unlock button, I'd be all for that as I could get away with just one relay to flash the lights. Otherwise, I'm likely going to have to wire in a couple relays to the lock and unlock circuits. Sad part is it will flash EVERY light on the car but the headlights/interior dome lights.
I have a new GM VKE 1000 kit I could use, but the instructions aren't all that user friendly, and this W-body module seems very easy in comparison.
On the Cutlass, the headlamp switch gets fuse fed from an orange wire (taillamp fuse), and the outlet goes to all the marker, turn sig and rear lamps get fed from a brown wire.
I figure if I hooked up a relay or two to bypass the headlamp switch and got momentary signal with the RKE when I pressed the fob lock or unlock, I could get the flashing indicators I seek.
Also, the recommended set up seems to separate the right and left power door lock motors by cutting one of the tan double wires coming out of the car's door lock relay, if you hook it up per the monte carlo site instructions. If I read this right, the schematics then take out the driver side unlock feature from the door mounted switch? The only way to unlock the LH side is via the keyfob. Any wire-biters out there confirm/debunk my wiring diagram-reading skills?
Since I don't care about the single door opening feature by splitting the car's tan wires to the door lock motors, I want to maintain both factory installed switch functions. So I was thinking I could not cut the tan wires from the original relay, simply attach the white and light blue wires to the unlock and lock wires at the relay, and use the tan wire instead to feed the unlock relay to the lamps, and tap off the light blue wire for the lock side and run it to the other relay. Or would I need to hit the unlock button twice to get the doors to unlock? Maybe use the tan wire from RKE for both locks, and tap off that to the lamp relays, and not use the white at all?
This stuff fries my brain.
What do y'all think? Anyone see something I'm missing or need to consider?
