carb, starter and fly wheel problems.

[David Williamson]

I agree, loose starter. Something's wrong there. Maybe the bolts are bottoming before the starter is tight, and I think you should use a bracket at the FRONT to stabilize it. Most cars come with the forward bracket, then when the starter gets changed it's too difficult to replace so it gets left off. But it prevents exactly what you are experiencing. I also see an electric choke not wired up, so the fast idle will NEVER come down, and if it's set at 6,000 you see where I'm going with this. I also see a rubber carb fuel line where a steel one should be- a tragedy waiting to happen.

Where could I get a bracket for the starter?
Yeah i still have to buy the wires the + and - but they only sell as a set for like 30 and all I need is the wires, wondering where I could go to get just the wires.
But when I get the wires it will settle on the idle a lot?
That should be a steel line?
what will happen if I run the rubber line?

 

[CHRIS.O]

You dont need a special 30 dollar wire for your choke. Some scrap wire out of your harness would work but I would just buy a small roll of wire and the proper connectors. Should cost you all of 5 bucks.

 

[Bonnewagon]

Just get some of these and a crimping tool and make your own harness. The bracket is a dealer item and probably best found at a junkyard. Don't be surprised if they are all missing, like yours. Or just make one from some scrap metal. It's only a short length of steel, hole at each end for a 1/4"-20 bolt, twisted halfway so it faces the starter and the block. One starter case bolt should have a short stud on the end to attach the bracket and the block should have a hole for it to bolt to. Every motor is different, some motors use a motor mount bolt to attach the bracket. I see lots on Epay.

 

[David Williamson]

You dont need a special 30 dollar wire for your choke. Some scrap wire out of your harness would work but I would just buy a small roll of wire and the proper connectors. Should cost you all of 5 bucks.

That's what I was going to do because I cant afford that for the wires haha.

 

[David Williamson]

Just get some of these and a crimping tool and make your own harness. The bracket is a dealer item and probably best found at a junkyard. Don't be surprised if they are all missing, like yours. Or just make one from some scrap metal. It's only a short length of steel, hole at each end for a 1/4"-20 bolt, twisted halfway so it faces the starter and the block. One starter case bolt should have a short stud on the end to attach the bracket and the block should have a hole for it to bolt to. Every motor is different, some motors use a motor mount bolt to attach the bracket. I see lots on Epay.

I greatly appreciate all this, making is so much easier for me to accomplish these task's.

 

[pontiacgp]

You dont need a special 30 dollar wire for your choke. Some scrap wire out of your harness would work but I would just buy a small roll of wire and the proper connectors. Should cost you all of 5 bucks.

That's what I was going to do because I cant afford that for the wires haha.

that's what you should do so you don't waste your money for wires you don't need..it's all about saving money so we can buy the stuff we want to buy..

 

[David Williamson]

You dont need a special 30 dollar wire for your choke. Some scrap wire out of your harness would work but I would just buy a small roll of wire and the proper connectors. Should cost you all of 5 bucks.

That's what I was going to do because I cant afford that for the wires haha.

that's what you should do so you don't waste your money for wires you don't need..it's all about saving money so we can buy the stuff we want to buy..

Exactly, I am on a budget got a 2 year old and now expecting another, So my money is very tight as it is.
But yeah I need a lot more to do for before she can be fully restored and "perfect".

 

[David Williamson]

I went under the car I found out that the bolts were on there pretty good not loose, the starter and the flywheel seemed to be a good half inch away from each other didn't see any part touching.
I wiggled the starter just to make sure it was on there and not loose, didn't even budge.
So what I did was I torqued the socket barely to where I tightened it a bit more.
But i scared that what I cant see the drive gear, I assume that could be my problem it coming out and hitting cause its off (if that's possible?).
Or should I be on the safe side and just get these http://www.autozone.com/autozone/access ... rtType=low Their only 4$
The choke will be done tomorrow, and the steel line will be done tomorrow, But I was still wondering (what happens if you don't have a steel line?).
So those will be done tomorrow, but still wondering should I still take the starter off and test it?
Or take it off and build the plate bracket for it?

 

[Bonnewagon]

Those offset shims are for the later year starters, like the LT-1's. The old cars use the straight ones. What era is your's? I know it's hard to measure the starter drive gear clearance at the flywheel, but if you drop the cover it's easier. I was told if you disconnect the starter battery cable at the starter, alligator clip the red wires to the cable so the car has power, then power the solenoid with the key, it engages the flywheel without trying to turn the motor over. That's when you measure the clearance. Then if it's too close you shim it to .020'. I never tried that, I just pry it out with a screwdriver and measure.

 

[David Williamson]

Those offset shims are for the later year starters, like the LT-1's. The old cars use the straight ones. What era is your's? I know it's hard to measure the starter drive gear clearance at the flywheel, but if you drop the cover it's easier. I was told if you disconnect the starter battery cable at the starter, alligator clip the red wires to the cable so the car has power, then power the solenoid with the key, it engages the flywheel without trying to turn the motor over. That's when you measure the clearance. Then if it's too close you shim it to .020'. I never tried that, I just pry it out with a screwdriver and measure.

Okay so I need the straight ones, My engine is from the late 70's I believe its a 79-to the early/mid 80's.
Not really sure on the exact date but got that info.