carb, starter and fly wheel problems.

[David Williamson]

David why don't you just use the ECM wire like I mentioned since it's a known 12v key on only source and save your money on the test light?

I got the testlight for just 4$ But where is the ecm wire, how hard/easy is it to use that wire?

 

[DoubleV]

The ECM power wire is pink with a black stripe. It goes from the 10A ECM fuse under the dash ( bundled with a bunch of other ECM wires ) to a big black connecter ( it's actually 2 big connecters ) which would be in the area right under the glovebox. You can just have the wire from your choke go into the car ( see below for how I did it ) and plug right into the 'F' pin on this big black connector.

This double black connector connected to a big whitish colored connecter which went to the ECM and also had wires that went through the grommet ( located right there in the in the wirewall by the ECM ). Since you don't use the computer, this white connector, the ECM, and all the wires that go through the rubber grommet out into the engine compartment can all be removed. On my car, I removed all of that and have my electric choke wire ( and converter lockup wire too ) going through this grommet and connected to the proper pins ( F for the choke and the P for lockup ) on the big double black connector. You don't have to do it that way yourself, but that's just the way I did it because it was clean and looked factory with no wire hacking or holes drilled into the firewall.

Since you already have the test light, I'm sure you can find a wire that's under the hood for easier tapping ( try the windsheild wipers ), but I personnaly I don't like splicing wires ( or drilling holes ), and I always try to avoid doing so if I can.

 

[David Williamson]

The ECM power wire is pink with a black stripe. It goes from the 10A ECM fuse under the dash ( bundled with a bunch of other ECM wires ) to a big black connecter ( it's actually 2 big connecters ) which would be in the area right under the glovebox. You can just have the wire from your choke go into the car ( see below for how I did it ) and plug right into the 'F' pin on this big black connector.

This double black connector connected to a big whitish colored connecter which went to the ECM and also had wires that went through the grommet ( located right there in the in the wirewall by the ECM ). Since you don't use the computer, this white connector, the ECM, and all the wires that go through the rubber grommet out into the engine compartment can all be removed. On my car, I removed all of that and have my electric choke wire ( and converter lockup wire too ) going through this grommet and connected to the proper pins ( F for the choke and the P for lockup ) on the big double black connector. You don't have to do it that way yourself, but that's just the way I did it because it was clean and looked factory with no wire hacking or holes drilled into the firewall.

Since you already have the test light, I'm sure you can find a wire that's under the hood for easier tapping ( try the windsheild wipers ), but I personnaly I don't like splicing wires ( or drilling holes ), and I always try to avoid doing so if I can.

I don't have to remove my dash or anything for this job do I?
But I was actually going to say the windshield was available and held a connection when on and turned off when the key was off.
But i still am really dumb when it comes to wires being spliced and actually going through with this.
I am sorry I just got into cars not a year ago, The only help and reason my car is this far is thanks to you guys and this blessing of a site.

 

[pontiacgp]

Dave, did you not look at this diagram. The wires to do it this way are easily found and the explanation on what to do is easy to understand.

 

[David Williamson]

Dave, did you not look at this diagram. The wires to do it this way are easily found and the explanation on what to do is easy to understand.

I didn't see it I am sorry, I guess i overlooked it earlier.
But all I have to do it off the alt, into the relay and out to the choke?

 

[pontiacgp]

yes and it uses the small brown wire from the two wire plug to the alt as well which triggers the relay to work. It won't send any power to the choke unless the alternator is spinning. The relay will have the numbers marked on it

 

[David Williamson]

yes and it uses the small brown wire from the two wire plug to the alt as well which triggers the relay to work. It won't send any power to the choke unless the alternator is spinning. The relay will have the numbers marked on it

Okay Okay I actually out it on the brown and it had a faint light when I turned the key on and when off it turned off.
I got this now I appreciate this so much.
I have another dumb question, I have never split wires how do you split the wires and put them going to separate places?

 

[pontiacgp]

for the power wire you just need a wire with a ring terminal to install on the back of the alternator and to splice into the brown wire you can follow the pictures

 

[David Williamson]

Okay That's actually what I thought, but didn't know for sure.
That's easy enough.
Thanks again, I will post a video and pictures when I am done to show you all how it works.

 

[David Williamson]

This is of the + and brown wires being combined.

The choke and the set up.

The negative being grounded onto the carb itself.

the brown wire going into the alt.

I am terribly sorry its dark, but I was wondering if I got this right before I actually go through with this and be finished, or if I should take this all off cause their wrong.
Sorry if their wrong I am trying my hardest to actually follow along, but when I face the problem My mind goes blank.
So its hard for me to get things right without help, hands on.

But this is what I got, if wrong correct me, please.
Thanks again guys.