carb, starter and fly wheel problems.

[CHRIS.O]

Save yourself the hassle of finding whatever wire you need and just run a new one. Or do whatever ya want but you can be up and running in 2 min by running a new wire instead of searching for the old one and testing for it to see if it is the right one.

 

[Elco Slimm]

DO NOT DRIVE IT LIKE THAT!!! Mine was making a clanking noise for 2 or 3 days and the bolts on my torque converter vibrated loose and killed my transmission, flywheel and torque converter.

 

[David Williamson]

Save yourself the hassle of finding whatever wire you need and just run a new one. Or do whatever ya want but you can be up and running in 2 min by running a new wire instead of searching for the old one and testing for it to see if it is the right one.

Where would you say would be the best place to run a new wire?
I am sorry i ask so many questions that have easy answers I am still trying to learn about cars and what exactly to do to fix them.
But I do greatly appreciate the help.

 

[David Williamson]

DO NOT DRIVE IT LIKE THAT!!! Mine was making a clanking noise for 2 or 3 days and the bolts on my torque converter vibrated loose and killed my transmission, flywheel and torque converter.

Nah i am not driving it.
I am getting the problem resolved with the help of other great members through here.
I am just getting smaller problems fixed and taken care of in the mean time.

 

[CHRIS.O]

Well thats where the test light comes in handy. Find your fuse panel and probe some empty fuse slots or even ones with a fuse with the key on, if you find one that lights up the test light then turn the key off and see if it still lights it up. If it does light up with key on and off then you dont want that. That means it has full time power. If the light goes out when you turn the key off but lights up with the key on then your good to go. You can either splice into the wire behind that spot in the fuse panel or run your new wire into that slot in the fuse panel.

 

[David Williamson]

Well thats where the test light comes in handy. Find your fuse panel and probe some empty fuse slots or even ones with a fuse with the key on, if you find one that lights up the test light then turn the key off and see if it still lights it up. If it does light up with key on and off then you dont want that. That means it has full time power. If the light goes out when you turn the key off but lights up with the key on then your good to go. You can either splice into the wire behind that spot in the fuse panel or run your new wire into that slot in the fuse panel.

Okay awesome, so what exactly does the - and + wires from the choke do?
I have been trying to look it up but I find absolutely nothing, i know its supposed to open the choke, but is that all it does?

 

[CHRIS.O]

The way your electric choke works is pretty simple. It is pretty much a timer. So keep that in mind when you go to start it in the morning or whenever it will need the choke. There is a spring inside the housing that is connected to the choke shaft and the cap of the housing. This spring is bi metal and works off of cooling and heating. The spring will stretch and tighten depending on if it is hot or cold. Since it is attached to the choke shaft it will open and close the choke flap. The reason you need power to the choke is because it will slowly heat the spring until the choke is fully open. You can adjust the time it takes for the choke to fully open as well. They are really simple in design.

 

[David Williamson]

The way your electric choke works is pretty simple. It is pretty much a timer. So keep that in mind when you go to start it in the morning or whenever it will need the choke. There is a spring inside the housing that is connected to the choke shaft and the cap of the housing. This spring is bi metal and works off of cooling and heating. The spring will stretch and tighten depending on if it is hot or cold. Since it is attached to the choke shaft it will open and close the choke flap. The reason you need power to the choke is because it will slowly heat the spring until the choke is fully open. You can adjust the time it takes for the choke to fully open as well. They are really simple in design.

Hmm good to know, Thank you so much.

 

[DoubleV]

so what exactly does the - and + wires from the choke do?

An electric choke only has 1 wire. This 1 wire supplys the choke with 12v of juice but only when your key is on assuming you tap in/splice into the proper wire. I don't know squat about electrical stuff and I had zero issues installing mine. I ran the wire from the choke through the rubber grommet in the firewall under the AC module ( which is where all the ECM wires are routed through ) then tapped into the pink with black stripe ECM wire. Do that and you'll have an electric choke which only gets power when the keys is on and it runs through the 10A ECM fuse on the fuse box. It really doesn't get too much easier than that.

 

[pontiacgp]

so what exactly does the - and + wires from the choke do?

An electric choke only has 1 wire. This 1 wire supplys the choke with 12v of juice but only when your key is on assuming you tap in/splice into the proper wire. I don't know squat about electrical stuff and I had zero issues installing mine. I ran the wire from the choke through the rubber grommet in the firewall under the AC module ( which is where all the ECM wires are routed through ) then tapped into the pink with black stripe ECM wire. Do that and you'll have an electric choke which only gets power when the keys is on and it runs through the 10A ECM fuse on the fuse box. It really doesn't get too much easier than that.

some chokes have two terminals on the cover. I had the cover with two terminals on a carter carb. I just grounded the terminal with a small wire to one of the screws that clamps down the cover