Chevy 350 block with spun rod bearings

[kalidromos13]

Thanks Jack, I was thinking the same thing. My dad and I work well together and we both love spending time talking and throwing back some suds haha I was thinking the same thing. I've always wanted to rebuild an engine myself. But like I said I won't know for sure what I'll do with the block until a machine shop has looked at it. I just though I'd ask what y'all think about this..in your experiences has spun rod bearings led to more damage in the camshaft or mains? If it's no good then I will just count my loss and buy a crate engine. I appreciate all the responses!!

 

[Longroof79]

As Turna also suggested, If you know a good reputable machine shop...one that you can trust, have them assess it. You'll probably want to have the block thoroughly cleaned and boiled out with new freeze plugs installed. Have the bores checked for size, roundness, and wear. If you're using used rods, have them checked and resized and add new rods bolts. Also, new cam bearings.

I would just replace the crank and rods. If you're not going to zing this motor up in the high RPM range, then a replacement cast crank would suffice. If you can get a good deal on a steel crank, that would be great. A used crank more than likely had been cut before. That's where your vernier caliper comes in handy.

As far as tools are concerned. A good torque wrench would top the list. A ring compressor, a ring spreader might not be a bad thing to have. I think you can get by without breaking the bank. If your dad already has some of these tools, that would be great.

Again, do a complete assessment on what it would take to build this engine compared to a crate engine. A crate engine may end up being a better deal.

 

[pagrunt]

As long as the block doesn't have any damaged, the bores check out, there shouldn't cost much to have the block prepped for rebuild. Mine was checked out last August. It was OKed, hot tanked, bore ridges cut, plugs installed, bore honed, & cam bearings installed for about $200. My #1 rod was sized & cut for $25. I got lucky to get a complete spare rotating assembly with my block so I had a good spare crank. I have about $350 in shop time invested in my block. Its good to find an old school machinist with a great rep.

 

[kalidromos13]

My friend has rebuilt a fair share of engines and he knows of a good shop, he said he will take me there when i am ready. Hopefully everything will be ok, and for the price i paid, heck why not?! Sounds good Padrunt, i looked at the bores, they look pretty good no scratches. Still can see crosshatching. Hopefully my situation will be similar.
Jack, no plans to go past 4500 RPM or close to that haha, i am a very patient and defensive driver. I just like to cruise haha Scat cranks are pretty reasonable.Might go with ones of those, but everything is up in the air at this point. I wont be able to pick it up until next week, i have work all weekend.
I have a set of used rods, dont know the condition though. I am going to stop at Barnes & Noble on my way home from work and pick up a rebuild book, just for sh*ts and giggles haha might as well learn something about the rebuild process. I need to really research Camshafts though.

 

[MrSony]

I built my 350 Buick with nothing more than a beam style torque wrench, a 239 piece Craftsman socket set, and a handful of specialty tools, like a piston ring filer, piston ring compressor, among other things. It's not hard. And with a SBC, you luck out. You can just buy a bottom end off of craigslist for a few hundred dollars if you needed too. To see if it's been messed with before, look at the backside of the main and rod bearings. If it hasn't, you'll see STD or 010, 020, 030, etc.

 

[kalidromos13]

Thanks Mr. Sony, I have almost every tool, just not the specialty tools. I will take heed of you advice, I appreciate it!

 

[Texas82GP]

That's what I've read so I will buy new rods and a new crank and new pistons. I will take it to a machine shop once I have it home. Still at my Co-workers place. And no I'm thinking of having a machine shop assemble the rotating assembly.

Consider buying a stroker rotating assembly since you are looking at buying a crank and rods. Build a 383.

 

[lilbowtie]

The block should be fine, you will need to pull all the bearings and plugs to get the galleries and oil passages cleaned out. Your Dad probably has a lot of the tools you will need. If there isn't any scuffing or much ridge in the cylinders you might get away std. Use a ridge reamer before pulling the pistons. A quick check for tapper is measure ring gap in the cylinder in a couple of places. You can buy a new cast steel crank for about $200 - you can also find some reconditioned rods for about $100. Check Northern Auto you can get a re-ring kit for under $100 which includes rings bearings and gaskets OR a master rebuild kit (cam, lifters, timing set, pistons, rings, rod-main-cam bearings, oil pump, freeze plugs, and gasket set for $215.00 and you can up grade. I've used Northern over 15 years. If you want to do it go for it and don't be afraid to buy tools if you need them you'll have them the rest of your life. Google remanufactured 350 short blocks.

 

[Texas82GP]

Stroker kit+Vortec heads+LT4 Hotcam=kick *ss!

 

[kalidromos13]

Jared, a 383 sounds fun, but with a 7.5 and the saginaw i will be putting in i dont want to destroy my drivetrain haha that sounds good, but dont forget i live in CA, so vortec heads are no go without EGR. I would love to do all that, but my State laws wont allow me to do that. I am thinking about transferring to either Huntsville, Alabama or to Camden, Arkansas in the future. The company i work for has facilities all over the country. If i do move out of CA i can do all that fun stuff!! I love living in CA, but all the smog laws make my favorite Hobby dull. haha If i ever get caught with illegal stuff on my car, I and the Smog shop who passed me will get fined and or possibly jail time.