Chevy 400 Build

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Its all good man. I called the guy I bought the block from I asked him what was this block used for he said it was a 406 and he used it for racing. He said that he had a adapter that will go on the rear main seal cap and I can use a regular oil pump. Is he shooting me BS
 
I don't know if he is shooting bs or not but you better not pay a dime for it. You also should probably ask your machinist. Have you ordered all the parts for this yet? If you haven't I would see if the guy you bought it from would just take it back and refund your cash. Start over with something that wasn't beat on it's whole life and sold when it was worn.
 
The machinist said the block was in good shape. The machinist wanted me to get the old pump from the guy. The guy i got the block from is going to give me the adapter. I just have to wait and see what he is talking about then ill take it to the machinist and see what he says.
 
Once you get the short block situation taking care there is a place called KMJ Performance that carries a couple different aluminum heads (Assault Racing and Pro Comp brands) ranging from $619-$649 for a pair of complete assembled aluminum heads and free shipping. I don't know how good they are but you it seems like a really good price for a pair of new heads.They will both work on the 400 but would still need to get the steam holes drilled.
 
That rear main looks like the engine was set up for a dry sump oiling system to me. Also as far as having to run a small base circle cam with a 5.7 rod crank just depends. My 1989 K1500 runs a transplanted carbed 406 with a 5.7 rod and a XE274 Comp cam without a small base circle with no clearance issues at all. Also my buddy has a S-10 that I build a 406 for that runs a XE284 Comp cam regular base circle and a complete 5.7 rod Eagle rotating assembly with no issues either. Internal block variances dictate what you'll need to run.
 
565bbchevy said:
Once you get the short block situation taking care there is a place called KMJ Performance that carries a couple different aluminum heads (Assault Racing and Pro Comp brands) ranging from $619-$649 for a pair of complete assembled aluminum heads and free shipping. I don't know how good they are but you it seems like a really good price for a pair of new heads.They will both work on the 400 but would still need to get the steam holes drilled.
You would be correct it does depend also duration also has some play in the fact. But before any balanceing is done he needs to either buy a cam and have rods clearanced if need be. Or say screw it buy a base circle cam and know clearences are good. Or he might buy a cam that wont work and get stuck buying another one that will work. And if memory serves me correct the cams you mention have a smaller lift and duration then one he said he wanted to use. That maybe why you have no issues. Did you check clearences? You may clear by bare minimal when pushed hard this strech and swell and could hit. Maybe your good and one of the lucky one. Either way he needs to deside which way he want to go before balancing. Every strocker 6 total and all of the 406 10 total i have built needed a base circle cam or clearenced.
 
Hey, chevy2480 I think you quoted the wrong guy, I never mentioned anything about cams.

But since I'm here I'll throw my opinion in here, for me I always do mock ups before final assembly to check any fitment issue, I don't take anything for granted when it comes to clearances.
Now I agree he could clearance the rods that he buys or buy ones already stroker clearanced.
Or he could go the small base circle cam route which is probably the easiest but he would have to buy custom length pushrods and would have to check the length he needs before ordering them. In a mild application like this the smaller base circle will not affect anything as far as performance.
I don't use small base circle cams for a couple reasons, the core being smaller diameter has a tendency to flex under big roller spring pressures that I use and also it moves the oil band on the lifter further down in the bore, I always check my pushrod length so I always use custom length pushrods anyways from Trend.
 
565bbchevy said:
Hey, chevy2480 I think you quoted the wrong guy, I never mentioned anything about cams.

But since I'm here I'll throw my opinion in here, for me I always do mock ups before final assembly to check any fitment issue, I don't take anything for granted when it comes to clearances.
Now I agree he could clearance the rods that he buys or buy ones already stroker clearanced.
Or he could go the small base circle cam route which is probably the easiest but he would have to buy custom length pushrods and would have to check the length he needs before ordering them. In a mild application like this the smaller base circle will not affect anything as far as performance.
I don't use small base circle cams for a couple reasons, the core being smaller diameter has a tendency to flex under big roller spring pressures that I use and also it moves the oil band on the lifter further down in the bore, I always check my pushrod length so I always use custom length pushrods anyways from Trend.
You would be right wrong quote. Lol stupid iphone. Anyways i was respnoding to post before mine. Just trying to make it less costly for this guy then it already is. Like you stated there are many ways to go about cam situtions. I was just trying to get it across that before any balanceing is done clearences need to be properly checked. As far as cam flex my roller setup is and has beed holding together so far. Base circle is the quickest and easier route and with the slring pressures required for the cam he wants to run shouldnt be an issue.
 
Yes duration does play a role in the clearance issue. The XE274 is a little smaller but the XE284 is just a big as the 292. I build engines on the side for extra money usually 15-20 a year or so. I measure all clearances in every engine I stick together and every 383 or 400 I've ever built with a similar cam has had plenty of clearance with stock style rods.
Both engines mentioned are turned 6500 and 7000 respectively with no issues. Yes running the small base will take away any doubt about clearance issues. I had these 2 shafts on the shelf so that's what we used. And yes alot of the larger cammed engines I build do run a small base but most of those are big rollers.
 
Well heres the adapter it seems like it may work I will just need long main cap bolts for this adapter...Has anyone seen one of these or know where i can get longer rear main cap bolts that will fit this

Heres a pic of the adapter

oilppadptr.jpg


The adapter pins line up the adapter with the main cap

adtrtf.jpg


Heres the cap without the adapter

maincap.jpg


grabbed a 350 vortec oil pump to test for fitment..may have to lengthen oil pump drive shaft or pick up tube i doont know yet

oilpumptest.jpg
 
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