CURRENT 6.0/4l80E swap parts = $$$$
- Thread starter FastCraig
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The only thing I can guess at is the shop that installed the TC didn't feel like using the correct bolts. I quit using that garage.
Changed the trailing arms. The ones I pulled out are original to the car IMO. The bushings actually don't look bad. The is some disfigurement of the steel pins. Must have been some play in there. Got the new tubular, polyurethane bushing UMI arms put in place and was preparing to load the axle to torque them when my boy ran into the garage to tell me that my wife needed me. The dryer quit heating. Turned out the heating element and high temp fuse went bad. Ordered a heating element kit and gave the old lady the news. Dinner was ready so I never made it back out to finish the lower trailing arms. The fit of the bushings was noticeably tighter. I'm hoping that translates to better performance over stock. Got some running to do this AM. Hoping to finish the lowers and sway bar this afternoon. Wire wheeled the sway bar and will degrease and clean in preparation for paint. The sway bar was coated like the trailing arms. Nasty.
Tightened the lower trailing arms. Flapper wheeled the sway bar, degreased and acetone's. Put 2 coats of rust inhibitor and 2 coats of enamel. Going to install sway bar and adjustable upper control arm tomorrow.
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Sway bar still swinging from the ladder. Dryer may be fixed. The wife turned it on, said something smelled like it was burning and shut it off and would run a load later. I don't know if she wanted me to test run the dryer but I'm headed to the garage and she can tell me if it works later. SOLD THE TH350! WHOOOOHOOO! Told the wife to deposit the cash because I needed the money to buy something for the MCSS. She still managed to sweet talk $100 out of me.
Dryer is actually fixed and being abused by the wife. Very happy that repair worked. First try. Between everything else going on I managed to get the lower trailing arms and the sway bar installed but not torqued yet. Took the driver's side upper control arm out. The bolts were a b*tch to get out. Then, I got to the CA axle bushing. THAT was a b*tch. I started out with a drill that I gently ran around the edge of the rubber bushing and let it walk around, waiting for the moment the bit really dug into it and the bushing eventually just popped out. Well that never happened. I got more and more aggressive and ended up drilling many holes until if fell out. It must have been a little dry rotted. I'm convinced the steel housing was never meant to be removed. After much beating, chiseling, pushing and pulling I gave up and got the sawsall into action and was done in 10 minutes. Going to install the upper tomorrow. Going to eat and watch TV.
Finished the rear control arms. The axle housing bushings were difficult to remove. I was going to fabricate a tool to remove them but didn't have the parts to make it work so I ended up "renting" an upper bushing tool from Advance auto. Much easier with the correct tool. I recently installed spring assist rear shocks and they were too long. I replaced them with Belltech street/strip shocks while I had the car in the air. The spring assist shocks are 22" and the Belltech are 19.5 so the car should be close to the original hight. My Tahoe has a really soft ride so I'll put the spring assist shocks on it.
Finally got my refund from APT. Stay far away from Animal Performance Transmissions and warn your friends. I ordered my FTI 9 1/2 inch 2800 stall converter today.
Did you order direct from FTI? If so you'll likely have it in a week or so. If from Summit then a couple days.
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