hooking up a g-body
- Thread starter JESSE
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I was on the phone with a buddy and he was explaining this stuff to me. First he says spring rate and front roll bar doesn't matter too much, it's about gaining more anti-squat. You know, when the rear pushes up off the line accelerating. It's controlled mostly through adjustable control arms and their vectors. If enough anti-squat is had, the front end stays on the pavement and no worries about pulling up.
He says this also increases brake hop, so to compensate a longer swing arm (of roll bar) is needed. A larger swing arm reduces effectiveness of the roll bar so it needs to be thicker than usual.
I'm trying to post a graphic of this, he sent an e-mail to show how it works...
He says this also increases brake hop, so to compensate a longer swing arm (of roll bar) is needed. A larger swing arm reduces effectiveness of the roll bar so it needs to be thicker than usual.
I'm trying to post a graphic of this, he sent an e-mail to show how it works...
bump
After a quick google I found this site which has them, so there's more elsewhere: http://www.lonniesperformance.com/wolfe.htm
After a quick google I found this site which has them, so there's more elsewhere: http://www.lonniesperformance.com/wolfe.htm
PontiacGP, Moroso has been selling "trick" springs for decades.
They have the same installed height, but the one for the right is stiffer/preloaded.
They can be used on the street, but it will effect making handling (right turns).
Been there, done that.
For a dual purpose machine, stick with the air bag or swap out like you suggested.
Jesse, you should be able to find a good set of cheap used adjustible shocks..
Even the Comp ones are only $80.
Start at 60/40.It may like 50/50 better with the anti-roll.
My rears are single adjustible , just adjusts stiffness, so they are 50/50.
Don't you already have 3 ways on the front?
Try 80/20 d/s 90/10 p/s.
Also how much travel does you front suspension have?
Take a measurement from ground to top of the front wheel arch.
Put a jack under the front cradle, jack it up until the front tires are just touching the ground.
Remeasure.
If you can't find cheap lowers, how about boxing your lowers( if your present ones are too long) and installing poly bushings?
You should be able to get the shocks and box the lowers for under $200.
They have the same installed height, but the one for the right is stiffer/preloaded.
They can be used on the street, but it will effect making handling (right turns).
Been there, done that.
For a dual purpose machine, stick with the air bag or swap out like you suggested.
Jesse, you should be able to find a good set of cheap used adjustible shocks..
Even the Comp ones are only $80.
Start at 60/40.It may like 50/50 better with the anti-roll.
My rears are single adjustible , just adjusts stiffness, so they are 50/50.
Don't you already have 3 ways on the front?
Try 80/20 d/s 90/10 p/s.
Also how much travel does you front suspension have?
Take a measurement from ground to top of the front wheel arch.
Put a jack under the front cradle, jack it up until the front tires are just touching the ground.
Remeasure.
If you can't find cheap lowers, how about boxing your lowers( if your present ones are too long) and installing poly bushings?
You should be able to get the shocks and box the lowers for under $200.
shotgun....this may sound like a dumb question but we work mainly on making our car turn left....how much of the front suspension is involved in running your car down the track?..
First, my responces are for the topic of Jess's thread which is about drag racing.
Maybe I misunderstood and you guys are talkin' roundy roundy.
If so , maybe it would be clearer to all if you started a roundy roundy thread.
The front suspension does alot going down the track.
You want it to raise at a guicker/controlled rate compared to a street/ handling car.
It also should settle slower then a street/handling car, keeping the rear tires loaded.
Most of the time you want more front end travel/lift.
A drag only car will also have different alignment specs.
All the above can be tuned for the best launch.
Making a drag car hook is easy.
Making a street car handle is easy.
Making street car hook or a drag car handle, not so much.
Maybe I misunderstood and you guys are talkin' roundy roundy.
If so , maybe it would be clearer to all if you started a roundy roundy thread.
The front suspension does alot going down the track.
You want it to raise at a guicker/controlled rate compared to a street/ handling car.
It also should settle slower then a street/handling car, keeping the rear tires loaded.
Most of the time you want more front end travel/lift.
A drag only car will also have different alignment specs.
All the above can be tuned for the best launch.
Making a drag car hook is easy.
Making a street car handle is easy.
Making street car hook or a drag car handle, not so much.
hook up
shotgun,thanks for all the secrets 😀 my front shocks are three way but they've been on for ten years so i'am going to replace them.... i found a set of qa1's twelve way adjustable [slightly used
] for a hundred fifty, going to look at them later today
i'am going to order a set of lakewood 50/50 rear shocks, do you think they will work?
as for the rear control arms the ones i have are chris alston solid bars.
please take a look at the tracks an tell me what you think,i just stalled to 2200rpm an let it fly, cold tires,an dust covered asphalt,it still went straight 😀
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shotgun,thanks for all the secrets 😀 my front shocks are three way but they've been on for ten years so i'am going to replace them.... i found a set of qa1's twelve way adjustable [slightly used
] for a hundred fifty, going to look at them later todayi'am going to order a set of lakewood 50/50 rear shocks, do you think they will work?
as for the rear control arms the ones i have are chris alston solid bars.
please take a look at the tracks an tell me what you think,i just stalled to 2200rpm an let it fly, cold tires,an dust covered asphalt,it still went straight 😀
[/img]
pontiacgp said:
Without the front suspension the front would tend to slow the car down as it was dragging down the track. Kidding aside, the front end lift to get the rear to plant and its ability to settle down to get the air over the car and not under down the track are quite important.
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