Lets Try this again: Cutlass Edition

[5spdCab]

Took a few days off and I’m back on it.. getting closer. Made a major decision: I’m putting the computer in the car. This implies cutting a hole in the firewall and feeding the harness through. I measured and if I double the harness back, and lengthen the front accessory wires, I have 4”-4.5” of harness with a little slack at the firewall.

To prepare, I Decided to pull the factory computer kick panel out and modify it and the S10 PCM flat bracket to accept the computer since that’s where I want it to be. I’ll epoxy them together, then maybe Fiberglass them together to be one piece and paint it black to match the future color of my interior.

I don't know anything about the computer, but the A/C-heater harness goes through the lower passenger corner of the airbox, and has I believe some connection to the computer depending on vehicle year. Take a quick look to see if you can use the existing passthrough before drilling a new hole.

 

[Sodee]

I don't know anything about the computer, but the A/C-heater harness goes through the lower passenger corner of the airbox, and has I believe some connection to the computer depending on vehicle year. Take a quick look to see if you can use the existing passthrough before drilling a new hole.

I thought that passenger side harness goes through a hole between the door and the fender but ill check it out and see. I can’t remember 100% but I also thought it went to a bulkhead

 

[fleming442]

No. It's under the heater box, and the grommet has a retainer on the engine side. I don't think LS style PCM connectors will fit without modification, though.

 

[Sodee]

Okay, so I had to take a break due to some family business that I had to take care of but Im back on the build. Nearly done with my wiring.. I've been spending 30 minutes here, 1 hour there to get to this point. Im a "just get it running" kind of guy but for some reason, having the PCM sitting on the fender has always bothered me and I wanted it behind the glove box or in the factory location in the kick panel. I estimate about 4' of wire that I'll have starting from the back of the intake so either using a hole in the tunnel or in the stock location i should be able to use either option.

Extending all plugs on the driver side of the engine (coil, injectors, throttle body, alternator), deleting all 3 rear o2 sensors, swapping the battery connections from driver to passenger side, and a light wire tuck. I finally can see the light after countless days of working on this for 30 minutes at a time..

https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10108882451687481

 

[Sodee]

Also got my $10 trans cooler squared away with a $15 7” fan that’ll probably run on either a switch or temp switch and relay. Mounting will either be under the passenger floor, under the trunk area or under the core support. Still looking at the best option.

 

[Sodee]

Have a few other things on the way to prepare for front mount piping and getting the engine mated with the trans. I love the distribution studs but found one that I got for free from the yard today from a former security car that had a lot of useless electronics in it. Oh well

Ignore the convex Broadway mirror purchase, all of my vehicles have one in them. I’ve loved them since they were in style in like 2004. Wife liked mine and so I got her one of her own 😂

 

[Sodee]

Oh and this is a special treat... I grabbed a truck throttle body for cheap an extra shitbox type project on down the road with the exhaust.

Next step is for me to temporarily drop the engine back on the mounts, choose where I’ll have my turbo (likely driver side) and find a place for the oil return to go. Run a hole big enough for my -10 bung and get it welded so I can throw the oil pan on finally.

 

[Sodee]

I’m also looking into no-weld options for a fuel tank drain plug. E85 isn’t super plentiful here but i want to run it at the track. I’ll probably just have two tunes, and write what I need at the track and rewrite once I get the e85 run out of the tank to go back to pump. I also have two computers so I may just swap computers. I dunno.. but initially I’ll run pump only and still have the e85 sensor in the system

 

[Max Headroom]

Passenger side exhaust manifold basically dumps onto the frame, but something like a 90 will fix that.

Same issue on the passenger side... the stock positive block coming from the battery will have to be relocated, no way around it.

Power steering pulley is CLOSE. I may be able to use it still though, with some clearancing... we will see...

Could you teak the manifolds off and mount them facing forwards on the opposite side of where they are now. Would you have hood clearance??

 

[GroceryGetter83]

Great progress. Check out my build thread if you need any help!