Looking to clone my regal

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You could also put a turbo and intercooler on a LS and have a lot more power,
Yeah your right a LS would put down some power for sure! But i dont know what to do about under the hood yet im at 60k miles rn on my regal i think thats not too bad, but yeah people been saying all i gotta do is put a turbo and intercooler in and that will do it
 
Personally I would rather make the car my own instead of making an exact clone where every part has to be correct or it's not right, on my Regal I have new burgundy interior and a SBC under the hood, it will look similar to a GN or GNX on the outside when painted but that is where the similarities end and I am fine with that.

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Personally I would rather make the car my own instead of making an exact clone where every part has to be correct or it's not right, on my Regal I have new burgundy interior and a SBC under the hood, it will look similar to a GN or GNX on the outside when painted but that is where the similarities end and I am fine with that.

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Yes i like the ideas including yours of making it your own i think thats how its gonna be bit when i can or have the money for that small adjustment im gonna go for it! And beautiful car by the way! Great build looks amazing!
 
Hey thank you for your time to respond i really think doinf the trims myself is a great idea hopefully i can do it without messing up and as for the headlight bezels also i eant to save as much cash as i can and for rims i also heard from others to get the pontiac firebirds as they pretty much are the gnx rims correct?

Sort of. Technically speaking you're getting to where there were differences between there being dimples cast into the edges of the cross lace near the centercaps versus not, and the construction of the pieces... it's splitting hairs. Aside from seeing the dimples or lack there of, basically, yes, same rim for your purposes. If you had a real gnx the answer would differ.

Your absolutely right it will cost a pretty penny, but the odds are im sure i dont be able to complete match my car peace for peace under the hood put exterior is my main priority, i have also had many tell me to leave my v6 in and put a turbo and intercooler in it, what do you think about this idea? Should i build off what i got now under the hood

Depends. Is your v6 a 3.8 2bbl carb, or, a 4.1 4bbl carb? The 4.1 used the same rolled fillet crank as the 84-87 sfi v6. To oversimplify starting where you are (1983) there were 3 versions of blocks (four counting that 4.1). You had the 83/84 3.8 with a 14 bolt oil pan. Next, you had a 1985-only 20 bolt oil pan, but, the lifter valley looked rough and unrefined (comparatively). Then, 1986/87 you had the 20 bolt pan but a beefier lifter valley. Now, that 86/87 block, called a 109 block based on casting number, is thought of as most desirable and has a raised area that can be drilled/tapped for the 86/7 oil return line even on the basic 2bbl carb models. However, even earlier models can be drilled with a fitting added so it's not a huge deal.

Typically in the 84-up years you see the "8445" head castings, but, again, I never saw much wrong with the old 0293s personally.

I'd take advice with a grain of salt as far as "throw the turbo on" unless it comes from someone who knows the cars and looked at the casting numbers of what you have. And even then, it's not their mess to fix when it pops.
 
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Sort of. Technically speaking you're getting to where there were differences between there being dimples cast into the edges of the cross lace near the centercaps versus not, and the construction of the pieces... it's splitting hairs. Aside from seeing the dimples or lack there of, basically, yes, same rim for your purposes. If you had a real gnx the answer would differ.



Depends. Is your v6 a 3.8 2bbl carb, or, a 4.1 4bbl carb? The 4.1 used the same rolled fillet crank as the 84-87 sfi v6. To oversimplify starting where you are (1983) there were 3 versions of blocks (four counting that 4.1). You had the 83/84 3.8 with a 14 bolt oil pan. Next, you had a 1985-only 20 bolt oil pan, but, the lifter valley looked rough and unrefined (comparatively). Then, 1986/87 you had the 20 bolt pan but a beefier lifter valley. Now, that 86/87 block, called a 109 block based on casting number, is thought of as most desirable and has a raised area that can be drilled/tapped for the 86/7 oil return line even on the basic 2bbl carb models. However, even earlier models can be drilled with a fitting added so it's not a huge deal.

Typically in the 84-up years you see the "8445" head castings, but, again, I never saw much wrong with the old 0293s personally.

I'd take advice with a grain of salt as far as "throw the turbo on" unless it comes from someone who knows the cars and looked at the casting numbers of what you have. And even then, it's not their mess to fix when it pops.
Thanks for the response yes my 83 is v6 I believe 3.8 and i had someone who claims to have worked for buick for a while and says that putting a turbo and intercooler and building off what i got is my best option, so as of now where i am with under the hood i have no clue on what to go for im still a learner on cars so I wouldn’t say its a good or bad idea cause i wouldnt know😕
 
Thanks for the response yes my 83 is v6 I believe 3.8 and i had someone who claims to have worked for buick for a while and says that putting a turbo and intercooler and building off what i got is my best option, so as of now where i am with under the hood i have no clue on what to go for im still a learner on cars so I wouldn’t say its a good or bad idea cause i wouldnt know😕
I vote bad idea.

Let's take a time out for a second and just help you understand a little more about what you have too.

1983 was a transition year on the frames. Around halfway into the model year production run the second set of holes were pre-drilled for the overdrive transmission crossmember. That can help you save some work if you don't need to drill.

The buick v6 was good for what it was, when it was as far as consistent and dependable with the right maintenance. I like them. Many other call them slugs.
What you do want to do is replace the timing set with a steel chain/gear combo made for the sfi GN. Bolts right in and eliminates the ticking time bomb that is the nylon teeth ready to shear off the factory chain letting it skip time.

If the timing is done, and when you have the front cover off the area by the oil pump isn't worn inside you will have a dependable, if slow, car to work on customizing and learning as you go. Then save up and get your drivetrain swap in a row down the road.

Personally I vote do the suspension/ rear end first, then engine/trans. I like to work kinda backwards - no reward in the fun dept real quick, but, least risk of breaking things.
 
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I vote bad idea.

Let's take a time out for a second and just help you understand a little more about what you have too.

1983 was a transition year on the frames. Around halfway into the model year production run the second set of holes were pre-drilled for the overdrive transmission crossmember. That can help you save some work if you don't need to drill.

The buick v6 was good for what it was, when it was as far as consistent and dependable with the right maintenance. I like them. Many other call them slugs.
What you do want to do is replace the timing set with a steel chain/gear combo made for the sfi GN. Bolts right in and eliminates the ticking time bomb that is the nylon teeth ready to shear off the factory chain letting it skip time.

If the timing is done, and when you have the front cover off the area by the oil pump isn't worn inside you will have a dependable, if slow, car to work on customizing and learning as you go. Then save up and get your drivetrain swap in a row down the road.

Personally I vote do the suspension/ rear end first, then engine/trans. I like to work kinda backwards - no reward in the fun dept real quick, but, least risk of breaking things.
Thank you for your comment! Means a lot that i got people who can help me set this up right!!! Thanks for your ideas!!
 
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