New Alternator acts weird, and barely charges battery.

Status
Not open for further replies.
Sounds like you need to check the brown wire for continuity and resistance.

In your application, the brown wire tells the alternator that there is a load, and that the alt needs to supply current. If the wire is not capable of relaying that to the alternator, you are going to have charging issues.

I would use a DVOM to check between the alternator plug and ignition switch, and have a helper move the harness while testing. I think there are problems in that wire...perhaps it has broken strands in it that cannot handle the current load, or are intermittently losing contact.
 
  • Agree
Reactions: Longroof79
Thank you, Ribbedroof. I will perform the tests, and try to clean all the ground connections. What does this ignition switch/harness etc. look like?
and DVOM is the same as a multimeter, right?
 
I had similar symptoms with my Regal that I debugged a few years ago. In my case, it turned out to be a bad ground between battery and the block. I observed a small voltage drop between the battery and the block. After fixing this issue, the charging system worked just fine.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Longroof79
(Okay, so with the help of one of the guys who works at the club, who is a mechanic, we cut the brown wire at the alternator, and ran a 12V+ wire from the battery onto it, nothing really changed. It charged really well at first, impressively well (this has happened before) and i turned on all the lights and it worked nicely. I then waited a bit to be sure, after a couple minutes choke went off, and it still charged well, i turned my lights, radio on etc. and then suddeny it dropped again, down to 12,6-7V and when i tried to rev the engine up to 1500-2000 rpm it only dropped even more, and then built up again when letting of the throttle. I ended up wiring everything back up again. I also tried to hook up a jumping cable from negative on the battery to a good ground on the engine block, nothing changed, however im thinking of replacing the main ground anyways.

battery also charged well for a bit when i just left the brown wire not attached to anything.
It seems that right after i fully charge up my battery it will charge very well, even with lights, etc. on for a good 5-8 minutes before it drops down to 12-12,5 ish again.

Foxrot; I tried to hook battery cables from my battery (negative) to the engine block on a few dirty/painted surfaces, maybe that wasnt a good test? ... i also have a small differene in charging at the battery and on the alternator, maybe 0,15 volts..
 
I have a quick test for you to run, once your charging system is in the 'bad' state. Use the volt meter to check for a voltage drop between your negative battery terminal and the alternator housing. If there is a voltage drop, this would note a bad ground.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MalibuHacon
Foxtrot, i did that today, it was a small drop, but nothing significant, maybe 0,1-0,2V difference. But I'll replace my ground cables with fresh ones soon 🙂
 
Foxtrot, i did that today, it was a small drop, but nothing significant, maybe 0,1-0,2V difference. But I'll replace my ground cables with fresh ones soon 🙂

the grounds on these cars can cause a number of problems. I upgraded my grounds with a 4 gauge ground from the battery to the body, another to the engine and another to the frame.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor