CUTLASS Swap 3.8 with 383 stroker

[lilbowtie]

Appreciate the reply, Too new for me. 81 is my Cutoff year.

Why is that ??

 

[CrammerGram69]

Why is that ??

From all the research I've done a lot of the parts from the newer non-Turbo 3.8s won't fit the early ones 78-81... Idk why Around 82-84 They switched to Electronical Carbs and had that "Early" Computer systems...

 

[lilbowtie]

That 86 engine would have the latest upgrades and would be my choice. You can always run it non computer. When you do build it put a booster plate in the oil pump and pack the oil pump - they are an sob to prime.

[TD]1977[/TD]​

• Odd fire design in early model year
• Even fire design produced late in model year
• Cylinder heads revised with new exhaust ports and cast rocker stands

[TD]1978[/TD]​

• Harmonic balancer bolt changed from 5/8" to 3/4" (both versions were produced this year)

[TD]1979[/TD]​

• Intake ports revised for better breathing

[TD]1980[/TD]​

• Oil sump and feed passages enlarged from 0.500" to 0.625"

[TD]1981[/TD]​

• New connecting rods with heavy section cap (they have 2 dots with #763 on the side of the rod)
• New harmonic balancer and flywheel for different balance due to new connecting rods
• Block revised for rod cap clearance

[TD]1982[/TD]​

• M10x1.5 metric for accessory mounting holes on heads
• Boss on the rear of block for Knock Sensor
• Transverse FWD 3.0 V6 introduced in the Skylarkk (X body) with the FWD bolt pattern

[TD]1983[/TD]​

• Head revised to remove iron at outside edge for valve cover baffle clearance
• New intake valve guide seals to fit 0.546" instead of 0.600" guides.
• Revised oil pan and valve covers with baffles

[TD]1984[/TD]​

• New camshaft design with 0.030" larger base circle diameter
• 0.015" shorter push rods and 0.015" shorter lifters to accommodate base circle (8.703" vs. 8.718")
• Oil groove added to the block behind cam bearing #1 and oil groove removed from cam shaft from the cam shaft
• In mid-year, the 3.8 FWD V6 was added for the MFI Century T-Type

[TD]1985[/TD]​

• Oil pan went 20 bolts from 14 bolts
• New block, front cover and oil pan
• Torque-to-yield non reusable head bolts

[TD]1986[/TD]​

• Deck height reduced by 0.035" to accommodate 0.058" thick composition head gaskets
• Torque-to-yield reusable head bolts
• Water drain plugs added to block on both sides between freeze plugs
• 3.8 liter transverse FWD available
  • VIN B with flat lifters
  • VIN 3 with roller lifters
  • New heads/valve train with pedestal style rockers
  • Gerotor oil pump
  • Needle bearing camshaft thrust bearing (P/N 25532588) *which works great with the turbo 3.8s!
  • 3/8" dipstick hole with O-ring seal on tube

 

[Zzz]

I just wanna throw a quick question out there I’m putting the motor mounts on the frame for the V8 and they only match up with three holes towards the front of the car is that right

 

[Injectedcutty]

I just wanna throw a quick question out there I’m putting the motor mounts on the frame for the V8 and they only match up with three holes towards the front of the car is that right

Yep, the frame mounts should hang off the front of the crossmember a tad. You should get bottom rear, and top outers making a V....

 

[Zzz]

Yep, the frame mounts should hang off the front of the crossmember a tad. You should get bottom rear, and top outers making a V....
View attachment 129204

 

[Zzz]

Cool thanks for the picture.

 

[Pc3]

While on subject of mounts for a sbc. Would that apply for a 79 cutlass also.
I have a sbc 427 tossing the idea of dropping in a 79 cutlass.
Sorry forhighjack your thread.

 

[pagrunt]

While on subject of mounts for a sbc. Would that apply for a 79 cutlass also.
I have a sbc 427 tossing the idea of dropping in a 79 cutlass.
Sorry forhighjack your thread.

All the '78-'88 frames have all the holes in place for all the engine types used. So you have those ones needed.

 

[Zzz]

All the '78-'88 frames have all the holes in place for all the engine types used. So you have those ones needed.

To your hijacking no problem my love it anybody can hijack that’s just a much more I learn. I’ve got another interesting question on the upper control arm back where it bolts on,, the old one was round and the new one is moog that can either sit back further or up further and do you put the spacers back because it’s a thinner piece. Does that make sense