Timing Chain Inspection and Replacement

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Tynan918

Royal Smart Person
Aug 2, 2021
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Is the fan, water pump, and harmonic balancer the only things I remove to get to the timing chain cover ?
20220123_095028.jpg
 
I got the timing cover in and bolted down.

Wanted you guys to take a look at it and see what it looks like and if it's in correctly...

View attachment 192849

Yep, its on. They can really only go on correctly if you're able to tighten all the hardware securely.
I'm betting you're leak will return as good as it ever was on that lower corner.
 
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Yep, its on. They can really only go on correctly if you're able to tighten all the hardware securely.
I'm betting you're leak will return as good as it ever was on that lower corner.
Ok cool, it's on correctly 👍🏾...

Yea I thought of that...because of the missing bolt...

Any ideas to attempt to prevent that leak from returning good as ever from it ?

Layers of oil resistant RTV and letting each layer cure in full time ?

Maybe use some of the gasket maker adhesive along with it ?
 
Hate to say it but I think Scoti is right. Thats a critical area on the cover.
From the picture it looks like theres enough of the bolt showing where you could have used some sort of punch to make a small indent. Its only to keep the drill bit from moving side to side.
If I was in your situation I would have used Permatex Right Stuff. Put it on both sides. Block and pan. Put it back together with the sealer wet and what ever squeezed out I would have left in place. Maybe (and I say maybe) that would have helped seal it but that ship sailed after you put it back together.
I give you a lot of credit for trying to do this yourself because its a learning experience and Im not trying to insult you by saying this but I think in the end this motor will have to be pulled to be fixed correctly.
 
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Looks like a leaker to me. Did you pull the front oil pan bolts too? Looks like it. So the oil pan gasket is compromised as well. You'd probably better stop now and regroup.
 
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Hate to say it but I think Scoti is right. Thats a critical area on the cover.
From the picture it looks like theres enough of the bolt showing where you could have used some sort of punch to make a small indent. Its only to keep the drill bit from moving side to side.
If I was in your situation I would have used Permatex Right Stuff. Put it on both sides. Block and pan. Put it back together with the sealer wet and what ever squeezed out I would have left in place. Maybe (and I say maybe) that would have helped seal it but that ship sailed after you put it back together.
I give you a lot of credit for trying to do this yourself because its a learning experience and Im not trying to insult you by saying this but I think in the end this motor will have to be pulled to be fixed correctly.
That being said, the best I can do is bolt this area all down and use layers of gasket sealant and let it all fully cure and attempt to start it to see if will leak...

I'm all out of money until I get this harmonic balancer on and return the loaned tools to install it...by then it's too late to buy things to extract the broken bolt, because the harmonic balancer will be installed and in the way...

What all needs to be attached to run the engine momentarily to check for leaks when I'm done ?
 
Really? You don't want to fix it? Cool. You owe us all a refund for the 32 pages and 4 weeks of spoon feeding you through this.
Right... Narcissist... Because I don't have the tools or money to do exactly as you say (pull the engine, now I owe you lol...

If I do it the way I describe, and it doesn't leak, then what ?

Still won't be good enough for you huh ?
 
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Remember when I said don't air your laundry about your money situation.....
We have all been there at one time, hell most of us still are. I hope you have gained some knowledge when it comes to fixing these old cars on a budget. Focus on the largest problem at the time and only spend money on the parts needed to fix it, once resolved if extra funds exist that is when you start spending money on the "shiny parts".

Best of luck my friend...
 
Remember when I said don't air your laundry about your money situation.....
We have all been there at one time, hell most of us still are. I hope you have gained some knowledge when it comes to fixing these old cars on a budget. Focus on the largest problem at the time and only spend money on the parts needed to fix it, once resolved if extra funds exist that is when you start spending money on the "shiny parts".

Best of luck my friend...
Yea, its all trial an error and a learning process... It will pass, thank you.

You can always teach an old dog new tricks...
 
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Right... Narcissist... Because I don't have the tools or money to do exactly as you say (pull the engine, now I owe you lol...

If I do it the way I describe, and it doesn't leak, then what ?

Still won't be good enough for you huh ?
I never, ever said pull the engine. I was the one giving you hints to minimize the amount of work you would have to do and stop the leak...with basic tools and minimal downtime. If I was doing this job for a customer I'd have to warranty it for 2 years and 24,000 miles. If it came back in that time I'd be redoing it for free, so I learned a thing or two about fixing it the first time.
Truth is, smearing RTV all over the outside now might slow the leak down...maybe. Might even stop it for a short time...maybe. It's 100% hackery and you aren't fixing anything, but it might buy some time.

Still not sure why you keep throwing "narcissist" around. I'm just some fat, bald, has-been parts changer living in a cabin in the desert. My daily driver is a worn out "girl's car" with 300,000 miles on it. Hell, I don't even have a real job. Why would a narcissist brag about any of that? For some reason you want to take other peoples' advice, which you're asking for, and make it a personal attack. You got a lotta feelings, man.
 
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