What did you do to your G-Body today? [2011-2018]

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[QUOTE="People get curious when I'm 15 to 20 feet away and am changing channels with my remote. I have an IF repeater that I aim at the picnic table and my apline remote does the rest. I have a switch to turn the radio on if I don't want to use the key so at the end of the evening I turn the radio off with the remote and lock the car with my car remote which is wired to a relay to put the windows up."/QUOTE]

Best of all - you can impress the guys making payments yet no one will ever hack your old school ECU via the Internet...
 
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[QUOTE="People get curious when I'm 15 to 20 feet away and am changing channels with my remote. I have an IF repeater that I aim at the picnic table and my apline remote does the rest. I have a switch to turn the radio on if I don't want to use the key so at the end of the evening I turn the radio off with the remote and lock the car with my car remote which is wired to a relay to put the windows up."/QUOTE]

Best of all - you can impress the guys making payments yet no one will ever hack your old school ECU via the Internet...

exactly...haha
 
Changed my center link (aka drag link), the old one has some slop in it and the store had changed owners so I wasn't able to get my lifetime warranty center link exchanged. Found a moog problem solver DS909 center link that was $60 (can) on Amazon.ca. One day delivery with tax it was $71 and change. :banana:
 
I was out last nite and played with the car a little. When I hit about 100 mph (160 kmh) I felt a bad vibration like I had a loose wheel. Brought it down to about 55 mph and the vibration went away. I pulled over and checked all the wheel lugs and they were all ok. Today I was looking the car over to find the cause of the vibration that won't happen on city streets but when I hit the highway around 60 mph the vibration will appear as soon as I release the clutch ans coast. I found the problem on the right lower ball joint. I use tall screw in ball joints and another piece of chinese junk got me again. The 7/16" 1/8" thick washer that comes with the Allstar ball joint was squashed with the edges folded up onto the sides of the nut. That allowed some play with the spindle moving with the gap between the spindle and the squashed washer. I know I drive my car hard and run 660 lbs spring up front plus a nice big hollow sway bar but this is ridiculous. The only pressure on this washer is when I go around a right hand corner beside the pressure of it being tightened. Here is a picture of the washer after I had to use a cold chisel to flatten it out so I could take the nut off and replace the washer. I had to almost cut the washer to get it off cause it was folded into the threads.

IMG_20150830_185623.jpg
 
Well… I won't be doing much today because I have a 12 hour day working in other peoples junk at the dealership, but yesterday was productive after church I went out to the garage just going to do some sanding on it, And I ended up looking at and thinking I should take out the body bolts and get ready to pull it off the frame. Well two hours later Okay to an a half hours later I had it off the frame and sitting next to the body🙂 Now I do I do you all are supposed to help me with that anyone in the mid Michigan area is welcome to come help me
 
I was out last nite and played with the car a little. When I hit about 100 mph (160 kmh) I felt a bad vibration like I had a loose wheel. Brought it down to about 55 mph and the vibration went away. I pulled over and checked all the wheel lugs and they were all ok. Today I was looking the car over to find the cause of the vibration that won't happen on city streets but when I hit the highway around 60 mph the vibration will appear as soon as I release the clutch ans coast. I found the problem on the right lower ball joint. I use tall screw in ball joints and another piece of chinese junk got me again. The 7/16" 1/8" thick washer that comes with the Allstar ball joint was squashed with the edges folded up onto the sides of the nut. That allowed some play with the spindle moving with the gap between the spindle and the squashed washer. I know I drive my car hard and run 660 lbs spring up front plus a nice big hollow sway bar but this is ridiculous. The only pressure on this washer is when I go around a right hand corner beside the pressure of it being tightened. Here is a picture of the washer after I had to use a cold chisel to flatten it out so I could take the nut off and replace the washer. I had to almost cut the washer to get it off cause it was folded into the threads.

IMG_20150830_185623.jpg
I use the allstar balljoints too...and although I think the joint is pretty decent, the hardware was complete JUNK. Replaced all the bolts and washers with extra ARP fasteners I have laying about. Seriously though, the bolts and nuts they ship with those things are dangerous. I had two bolts strip on me before reaching spec torque....
 
I changed the oil, welded a tail-pipe hanger that was broken off by the giant speed humps in my apartment parking lot and swapped my 160 degree thermostat back to the 180. Don't run a 160 t-stat in an LS engine, it's a mistake.
 
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