What did you do to your G-Body today? [2019]

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Had a little bit of time between cleaning the customers Grand Prix that I dropped off last night
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So I decided to mark and cut the holes for the cover on the airpod, made an ooopppppssssyyyyyy
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Let the young feller learn this one himself guys. Im looking forward to the "My new motor has a knock, kinda" thread.
"my motor shakes like a chihuahua, kinda"
 
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Y'all convinced me to not swap a random crank into an engine and run it.
Plus, even tho it had the same casting number and what not, the uh, balance holes were shallower on the stock crank than the new one. Plus, the new one is reserved for my aluminum head engine. Plucked the crank from the engine and dropped it off and picked up the other crank. Into the box it came in for now. parts got delayed, so I wont have the engine done over thanksgiving. 🙁
Ah well.

And I say "new", as in new to me. It's a factory crank.
 
Lessee: you have a good block, 16 rods, 16 pistons, and need machine work anyway, unless this is a dingleberry hone and send it type of deal. Take everything to the shop and get it balanced and align honed with a cam bearing install= build confidence.
 
I found some thin nuts to use on the brake switch so I could secure it in place. The nuts are used on window sades and fit the switch perfectly. With the manual master I installed I didn't bother to put a stop on the rod so today I tapped the hole brake pedal housing that sits above the brake switch, it was a perfect size for a 10x1.5 tap and then Installed a bolt to use as a brake pedal stop. The pedal would never move back to allow the push rod to fall out but it would push the brake switch back if the pedal was pulled back. I also cut a corner off the plate that sits above the steering column so I can hopefully get to the rod from the master clutch cylinder without having to remove the steering wheel, drop the column and remove the pate to get to the rod and pin on the clutch pedal....my plasma cutter made it an easy job.

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Lessee: you have a good block, 16 rods, 16 pistons, and need machine work anyway, unless this is a dingleberry hone and send it type of deal. Take everything to the shop and get it balanced and align honed with a cam bearing install= build confidence.
Where you gettin these extra 8 rods/pistons?

I got my '76 that spun a bearing, bad crank, messed up rod(s?), needs baked and cleaned out and new cam bearings, and everything else. It's just the block and heads right now.

I got the new to me '71, which is the engine I'm messing with now, that ran and drove until 6 years ago. Sitting in a guys garage on a stand since then. He drove it around in a 71 skylark it came from, and had it in a 4x4 truck.

And my exploded '70. Of which, probably the only usable parts left are the cylinder heads, exhaust manifolds, and aluminum intake I just put on it.

I only have 8 rods to play with.

My original "plan" was to take a new/used crank I bought for my '76 motor (before the '70 exploded), and jam it in the '71 motor as the crank in the '71 motor had some scoring. It was never an "I'm gonna do it 100% no matter what" situation. After comparing both cranks, and along with all you guys banging your heads on the wall, I decided to not go through with that plan due to the potential catastrophic issues that could arise.

Now, if you refer to my post about peeking inside the '71 engine, it's in remarkable shape for being 48 years old. With the rebuild kit parts being delayed, that's another reason to just have the '71's crank machined. I'd have to wait either way. So, that's the plan now. Refresh the '71 with it's own crankshaft, new rings, bearings, gaskets, cam and lifters. That's it. It even came with a starter. hooray.
 
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Anybody got any tips and tricks on removing the inside front and rear windshield trim without braking the tabs?
 
Anybody got any tips and tricks on removing the inside front and rear windshield trim without braking the tabs?
Meh, pretty much happens to break the plastic tabs. They are available from Mike's Montes or Dixie resto. The trim should pull down from the inside and then rock off. I just installed mine and it def goes on easier.
 
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