What Did You Do To Your G-Body Today? [2021]

DSPbuilt

Master Mechanic
Jan 7, 2016
340
93
Charlotte, NC
E4907F75-DD67-482D-9141-165C3C07CE52.jpeg
756FAA7E-B7E5-4854-A615-C93D00CF8344.jpeg
526EA886-65D7-4A71-A489-C0D2530D03EB.jpeg
so I made the mistake of thinking I had the “baby” brembos. I previously ordered the base C7 rotors when in fact I needed z51(rpo-J55) 321mm vs 345mm
I was able to get some overnight with O’Reillys. Picked them up this morning. Finished the install, waited for the little ones to get home from school and had them help me bleed the brakes.
We went for a ride to break in pads.
Wow what a world of a difference! I can say I will need to look into some sort of an upgrade for the master. Especially when I do the rear blazer disk.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 4 users

scoti

G-Body Guru
Supporting Member
Sep 5, 2019
845
93
Texas
View attachment 184278 View attachment 184279 View attachment 184274 so I made the mistake of thinking I had the “baby” brembos. I previously ordered the base C7 rotors when in fact I needed z51(rpo-J55) 321mm vs 345mm
I was able to get some overnight with O’Reillys. Picked them up this morning. Finished the install, waited for the little ones to get home from school and had them help me bleed the brakes.
We went for a ride to break in pads.
Wow what a world of a difference! I can say I will need to look into some sort of an upgrade for the master. Especially when I do the rear blazer disk.
I thought JL9's were the standards @ 325mm; the J55/Z51 was 340mm & Z06 was 355mm?
 

DSPbuilt

Master Mechanic
Jan 7, 2016
340
93
Charlotte, NC
I thought JL9's were the standards @ 325mm; the J55/Z51 was 340mm & Z06 was 355mm?
Jl9 is 321mm and j55 is 345mm.
My mistake was that I just misread and and ordered the thw jl9 rotors but I have the 2016+ Camaro calipers which calls for the j55 rotors.
 

Attachments

  • 7FFE2712-5A59-4981-8B20-9E6D2347EDED.jpeg
    7FFE2712-5A59-4981-8B20-9E6D2347EDED.jpeg
    1.5 MB · Views: 9
  • 9F97EDA1-4D85-486C-AB9B-011C38489282.jpeg
    9F97EDA1-4D85-486C-AB9B-011C38489282.jpeg
    2.7 MB · Views: 10
  • AB3C1D12-FE85-4337-A12D-39C6C3C9113E.jpg
    AB3C1D12-FE85-4337-A12D-39C6C3C9113E.jpg
    41.6 KB · Views: 10
  • Informative
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users

scoti

G-Body Guru
Supporting Member
Sep 5, 2019
845
93
Texas
Jl9 is 321mm and j55 is 345mm.
My mistake was that I just misread and and ordered the thw jl9 rotors but I have the 2016+ Camaro calipers which calls for the j55 rotors.
This is in my brake notes & what I found:
  • JL9 - Front 325mm/12.8"; Rear 305mm/12"

  • J55 - Front 340mm/13.4"; Rear 330mm/13"

  • J56 - Front 355mm/14"; Rear 340mm/13.4"

  • J57 - Front 394mm/15.5"; Rear 380mm/15"
The J55 number is confirmed by the Z51 rotors I purchased for a conversion & are 13.4 (actually they were just shy of that number I recall). I know the J56 option was for the Z06 so that increase made sense & then there's the king of the hill J57 for the ZR1's.

My J55/Z51 set-up was purchased from Tobin @ KORE3 but I'll look the info up again though.
 
  • Informative
Reactions: 1 user

DSPbuilt

Master Mechanic
Jan 7, 2016
340
93
Charlotte, NC
This is in my brake notes & what I found:
  • JL9 - Front 325mm/12.8"; Rear 305mm/12"

  • J55 - Front 340mm/13.4"; Rear 330mm/13"

  • J56 - Front 355mm/14"; Rear 340mm/13.4"

  • J57 - Front 394mm/15.5"; Rear 380mm/15"
The J55 number is confirmed by the Z51 rotors I purchased for a conversion & are 13.4 (actually they were just shy of that number I recall). I know the J56 option was for the Z06 so that increase made sense & then there's the king of the hill J57 for the ZR1's.

My J55/Z51 set-up was purchased from Tobin @ KORE3 but I'll look the info up again though.
Those are c6 spec I’m running c7 rotors with brackets from Bigbrakeupgrade
 
  • Informative
Reactions: 1 user

SSMonteMan

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Jun 12, 2015
5
3
Today I actually got to drive my SS. Had to park it for about 3 months waiting for a TKX to come in. It was a pretty simple swap, as I did most of the hard work a few years ago when swapping from the 200r4 to a t5. The t5 just couldn't handle the "hot" 305 I have in it at the moment, let alone the 383 I'm going to start building for it. Hydraulic release bearings are super nice, by the way, and if you want my opinion, after having a car with a z-bar, a cable clutch, external hydraulic slave, and now an HRB, the HRB is superior in every way.

As for the TKX swap, I can take pics/do a small write up if anyone is interested.
 
  • Like
  • Agree
Reactions: 6 users

mclellan83

Comic Book Super Hero
Jun 27, 2017
2,521
113
Pgh, PA
Wasted more time playing with the head units trying to get this dongle to work, still no such luck on being able to get it to take over the screen......
20210929_182935.jpg
20210929_182442.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user

CopperNick

G-Body Guru
Supporting Member
Thread starter
Feb 20, 2018
977
93
Canada
DSCN2962.JPG



So today was sort of an interregnum or single day floater between shifts and I didn't really want to get into anything evil or nasty, but it will come so decided to finish up a few small chores. Since a buddy had expressed some serious interest in a 9 inch that I had acquired ???? years ago and just parked on the rack, and wanted to see it, I had to dig a route into there so he could get a look-see. That meant moving the rear end for the Monte which is still sitting on its custom dolly, waiting for me to get back to it.

One of the glitches that I encountered along the way with that project was the remounting the distribution block for the rear brakes. As you can see in the picture above, I did score a pair of -04 AN x 3/8ths invert flare fittings as part of the conversion of the brake system to S/S and A-N. The problem here was that I could not get them in 45 degree bend configuration. Ninety degree only. With the stock steel brake line you can generate fairly tight bends and not get kinks but stainless is not so friendly that way. The 45's would have solved that problem but with only nineties I had to come up with Plan, Ah, Hmm, J, Q, X, ?? I dunno, just needed an alternative.


DSCN2963.JPG



Here, on the left, you see the stock mounting bolt for the distribution block. Oddly enough it is not metric thread but 5/16ths NC so a fast trip to the bolt bins netted me a Grade Five capscrew as a likely replacement.


DSCN2964.JPG


The next trick was to replicate the shoulder. For that i went digging through a bottle of orphan bushings and sleeves and metal grommets and found one that was already drilled to 5/16ths but not through drilled. From some fast test fits I knew I that I had to shorten the bushing anyway so it got introduced to the grinder and the close end shaved off to remove the cap and open it up, along with shortening it to the right length to fit in the pocket that the shoulder on the original bolt would have occupied.


DSCN2965.JPG



That left me with one final step. How to raise the block away from its mounting pad to gain the necessary room to let the hard lines line up with the block?

On the far right, meet my solution. Back when I was ca-noodling a design for a power steering pump belt tensioner I had scored an aluminum turnbuckle to try out as, at the time, I thought it had been threaded completely from end to end. NOT. Turns out that the body was hollow and just the ends had threads. Threw the body and one end, probably into the bits and scraps bucket, but kept the other and just parked it on a shelf. Today it came off that shelf and became the blank for a pedestal/spacer; made by chucking it into the lathe, drilling out the remaining threads to achieve a 5/16ths smooth bore hole, and then facing off the flared out end to make it flat.


DSCN2966.JPG



And here it is, mocked up on the tonneau cover on my S-10. From right to left, the bolt, the block, the sleeve and the pedestal/spacer. What you see here is actually backwards to how it finally got installed as I elected to add an anti-vibration washer and have the bolt come in from the factory side of the block like it used to. Here, in the picture, it is actually coming in from the wrong side as I had thought mounting it in the flipped position might work better, Changed my mind.

DSCN2972.JPG


F***. Five tries and this is the clearest of the blurries. For some reason this shot just would not come clear. Anyway, if you close one eye and squint at it with the other while looking at it in the mirror you might see the final assembly. The distribution block sits nicely on its pedestal and can be rotated to gain space in either direction, giving the fittings room to accept the lines and nuts. It also still sits low enough that the upper control arm passes over it safely and cleanly. I may try to take this shot again... sometime..... maybe....... whenever............ZZZZZZZ.



Nick
 

MrSony

Geezer
Nov 15, 2014
6,184
113
Des Moines, Iowa
just been sittin in my yard. 45 minute drive to work at 3500rpm is a death sentence for that thing to until it gets another gear, its up for a while. the first time its up and not been broken since ive owned it lol.
 
  • Haha
Reactions: 1 user

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck ConsolesDixie Restoration DepotMike's MontesP-S-TSouthside Machine PerformanceUMI Performance

ContactAdmin@GBodyForum.comfor info on becoming a sponsor