What Did You Do To Your G-Body Today? [2022]

[old80cs]

Curious as to why you chose single stage? BC/CC is a lot more forgiving, and generally holds up better in the long term.

FWIW, I would strip it all, especially if it's lacquer

Single stage is my choice, one less step. As for durability and long term, it won’t be a daily driver ever again and will be stored in my garage and live a pampered life so I don’t see an issue.

Working in a one stall garage now and my two stall when we get to the rear quarters, roof etc. My friend is helping me out so I truck the parts to his place for his convenience as we live about 25 miles from each other.

 

[ck80]

Single stage is my choice, one less step. As for durability and long term, it won’t be a daily driver ever again and will be stored in my garage and live a pampered life so I don’t see an issue.

Working in a one stall garage now and my two stall when we get to the rear quarters, roof etc. My friend is helping me out so I truck the parts to his place for his convenience as we live about 25 miles from each other.

If those are your goals, you know, in collector circles, it's still been possible to get lacquer....have you considered it?

Tack dries in 5-10 minutes. 1 hour between coats. Can even use a lacquer clear as your last coat since it sort of melts into itself between coats, helps prevent as much of the dulling people experience on cars that spend lots n of time outdoors....

 

[old80cs]

If those are your goals, you know, in collector circles, it's still been possible to get lacquer....have you considered it?

Tack dries in 5-10 minutes. 1 hour between coats. Can even use a lacquer clear as your last coat since it sort of melts into itself between coats, helps prevent as much of the dulling people experience on cars that spend lots n of time outdoors....

No I haven’t, as far as I know lacquer is no longer available in MA. Not sure where I would source it from if we wanted to use it.

 

[CopperNick]

Decided it was time to see if the new door skin would mate up to the inner shell after all the beating and abuse I had laid on it.

So, of course, things got complicated. Had to remove the inner shell from the rack and return it to the padded wheeler tor mobility, then retrieve the box with the new skin still in it from where it had been stashed for safe keeping. Fortunately, it was too big to get lost or try to escape. Laid the skin on the rack and discovered that the edges had already been folded part way, to about 90 degrees from the skin surface, making things a whole lot simpler. Also learned that this skin, a GoodMark product, was stamped in Taiwan. Said so right on the tiny gold sticker that I found on the inner face of the skin.

Sanded away the e-coat from the metal where the adhesive will fall and set the skin aside again. Cleaned out the entire pocket where I had set up the portable panels for my enclosure and added another brace to the upper edge of the panels for better structural integrity. Added a second 2 by to the first one that had originally held the ratchet strap and hung my chain fall from that so that I could use it to more easily lift or drop the inner shell while checking the alignment between it and the skin.

Did a first impression check of how it all fitted together and was surprised at how close it all actually was. The lower edge needs a shave but that was pretty much to be expected. The rest of the edges match up quite well and the skin actually self aligns to a major degree.

Still have some welds to dress and a pocket of surface rust to wire wheel off. Plus a good coat of grey primer to match what the factory used for its internal faces. After that it will be another test fit and if that goes well, then it will be a nice bead of panel adhesive and a lot of clamps to hold it all together and lined up until the adhesive cures.

Yeah, once upon a time i did discuss rose welds for the various seams but that would be a time and labor intensive exercise involving an air punch to create the holes and then a lot of hammer and dolly work to lay the edge over and get it flat without leaving hammer marks. (Tip here: Rubber Hammer.)

I have a week's R 'n' R coming up so time to go play. Be good to socialize a little; being a hermit is safe but even us hermits need to get out and smell the booze once in a while.



Nick

 

[86LK]

Decided it was time to see if the new door skin would mate up to the inner shell after all the beating and abuse I had laid on it.

So, of course, things got complicated. Had to remove the inner shell from the rack and return it to the padded wheeler tor mobility, then retrieve the box with the new skin still in it from where it had been stashed for safe keeping. Fortunately, it was too big to get lost or try to escape. Laid the skin on the rack and discovered that the edges had already been folded part way, to about 90 degrees from the skin surface, making things a whole lot simpler. Also learned that this skin, a GoodMark product, was stamped in Taiwan. Said so right on the tiny gold sticker that I found on the inner face of the skin.

Sanded away the e-coat from the metal where the adhesive will fall and set the skin aside again. Cleaned out the entire pocket where I had set up the portable panels for my enclosure and added another brace to the upper edge of the panels for better structural integrity. Added a second 2 by to the first one that had originally held the ratchet strap and hung my chain fall from that so that I could use it to more easily lift or drop the inner shell while checking the alignment between it and the skin.

Did a first impression check of how it all fitted together and was surprised at how close it all actually was. The lower edge needs a shave but that was pretty much to be expected. The rest of the edges match up quite well and the skin actually self aligns to a major degree.

Still have some welds to dress and a pocket of surface rust to wire wheel off. Plus a good coat of grey primer to match what the factory used for its internal faces. After that it will be another test fit and if that goes well, then it will be a nice bead of panel adhesive and a lot of clamps to hold it all together and lined up until the adhesive cures.

Yeah, once upon a time i did discuss rose welds for the various seams but that would be a time and labor intensive exercise involving an air punch to create the holes and then a lot of hammer and dolly work to lay the edge over and get it flat without leaving hammer marks. (Tip here: Rubber Hammer.)

I have a week's R 'n' R coming up so time to go play. Be good to socialize a little; being a hermit is safe but even us hermits need to get out and smell the booze once in a while.



Nick

as long as you don't smell LIKE booze

 

[CopperNick]

That might happen too, Never know on Vay-Kay. And its been a long while.....................................



Nick

 

[gbodytoys]

Took my maiden voyage in the Regal today for the first time since the new transmission got installed.

Things of note:

• Right rear suspension is bottoming out. The vehicle sat for 10+ years so, and the springs/shocks may not have been touched for 5-10 years before that, but I didn't know how urgent it was on my list of things to do. Any type of floating over 40 mph is dangerous.
• Car stalls when I floor it from a stop. I'm not sure if it's the carb, vacuum, fuel delivery, etc... and all of my mechanics seem to be backed up.
• These procar seats sit way too high. I'm going to have to cut the mounts down.

All in all, besides the one time it stalled, there weren't any issues.

 

[CopperNick]

Check the accelerator pump on the carb. The diaphragm might be dead.



Nick

 

[SS_Malibu]

Took the Malibu out for one of it's last drives before replacing the 43 year old worn out 7 1/2 cylinder 106 (if that) HP 305. No neck brace required. Project starting in a few days.

 

[ttype]

Took out the back window on ole Buford today... so's i can replace the hackjob vinyl roof replacement that happened about 1992 or '93, way before i ever let it get worse.