What Did You Do To Your G-Body Today? [2022]

[Injectedcutty]

i know you had that oversized air brush compressor in he trunk for brake assist before,if you didn't have that hooked up and running it might explain the hard pedal.

That was a thought, but with the chrome booster the pedal is more normal. Just seems like the brakes are dragging. The only reason for the trunk compressor was the old engine didn't generate enough vacuum. The LS has more than enough vacuum for the brakes.

 

[CopperNick]

And this is the payoff for all the work and sweat and misery that goes into reskinning a door. The A pillar is the same color that I shot on the door ends and the lower seams. The hinges still need a little touch up but that can happen down the road. As it sits right now, it is both bolted in place and aligned, so that it will open and shut quite nicely. it was the alignment portion of the program that took the longest amount of time. Prior to removing the door I had drilled alignment holes through the hinge frames into the door and pillar beside the attachment plates. Having them meant I could use 1/8th drill bits to act as guides to slide the hinges into position on the door and the pillar to get it back to the original alignment and give me a reference/starting point for further adjustment. What changed along the way was the discovery that both hinges had experienced damage to their pins and bushings; one set of bushings had actually split open. So they both had to be dismantled and new pins and bushings installed. That changed the upper hinge just enough that I had to fight with it for a while to get it to fall where it was supposed to.

The last picture is the attachment for lifting doors that i bought from my local body shop supply company. It is worth every penny that I paid for it. Take off or re-install, it made wrestling the door a one man operation and let me get on with the business of fishing bolts into position and getting them to start and thread without worrying about the whole thing falling off a jack or block and damaging or destroying all my work. The cradle actually replaces the stock lifting plate and mounts to the same hole that the plate stud rides in. It can be adjusted for ease of rotation by adding turns to the securing bolt as that bolt carries a pair of nylon tapered sleeves that act as wedges to tighten up how easily the whole frame moves.

At this point I still need to finish cleaning the second post muffler tail pipe and get them rehung. Ditto the parking brake cables. Then there is second exhaust pipe hanger assembly that I want to put in place to carry/take some of the load off the reducer ball couplings And then........ well who knows, I may even get to put the car back on the dollies and rotated it 180 degrees to expose the passenger side and start on that.



Nick

 

[Built6spdMCSS]

Not mine, but went out last night to the local track to see a bunch of them.

One guy had a white MCSS chassis that won his class, car was absolutely flying around the track.

Good times. 🙂

 

[melloelky]

went to a show outside of Boston saw 2 familiar rides

 

[Northernregal]

Catching up on this post as work has kept me busy driving. I've had an odd vibration issue since finishing my car and it's driven me crazy. Only does it above 60mph, but I've always noticed my brakes feel like they're dragging especially at highway speeds when letting off the go pedal. It feels like it wants to dive.
Been doing some thinking and wondering of the aftermarket master/booster are right. After checking specs, the master should be sufficient for my brake setup, but the booster is smaller than stock and the pedal rod seems to be adjusted wrong(my fault).
Soooo this week I got the stocker back out, threw some fresh paint on it and swapped it last night. Been a drought here for 3 weeks, then the day I need to test drive its raining. I'll hold off on claiming its fixed until driving, but just in the garage the brake pedal feels different in a good way. To be continued...View attachment 202217View attachment 202218View attachment 202219View attachment 202220

Well, that test drive sucked! It was hard to even press the brake pedal going 20mph or less around my neighborhood. It legit took both feet to stop. Guess I'm putting the other one back on and re evaluating the issue.

Update your build thread ya vagrant, before it gets the lock down.🤣🤣

 

[mclellan83]

Finally got around to updating the firmware, but want to add more gas before trying to start it up again to see what it did. Might try that sometime this week

 

[MrSony]

Replaced drivers bumper marker bulb.
few days ago put on some dinky ebay mudflaps.

 

[MrSony]

Washed it yesterday. Rubbed it down with PB blaster and one of them soft dense microfiber rags.

 

[ttype]

Washed it yesterday. Rubbed it down with PB blaster and one of them soft dense microfiber rags.
View attachment 202546View attachment 202547View attachment 202548View attachment 202549View attachment 202550

Gotta love our "old" rigs...lol

Try that wit a newer one(think plastic headlamp buckets, and "jeep" fender flares), and you'll see the root cause of frosted headlamps and whitish grey fender flares that look much nicer in original black.

There's the extent of blowing my .02$ allowance.

 

[old80cs]

Been giving the engine compartment a freshen up, new radiator hoses, fuel pump, thermostat, belts, fresh coat of POR15 Olds Gold and a new set of spark plugs. Figure I'm going with black Taylor wires, will order a universal set later on, for now the old Accel set will do for now to get her running again. Going to pick up a new starter solenoid and a couple 5/16' steel line for the. transmission cooler lines. With the new Thornton headers they are now in the way. Ordered a set of SS downpipes from Pypes and hoping they will work out, or at least be close enough to finesse and mate to my existing dual exhaust system. Still a ways to go but making some progress every night I've been out there. The body work is progressing really well too just about ready to start on the the roof, quarter panels and door jambs.