What Did You Do To Your G-Body Today? [2022]
- Thread starter bruisedbanana79
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no wonder it looks so damn good. your drill sargent had you cleaning latrines in the military with a toothbrush, didn't he?
Toothbrush, more likely those Q-tips that I mentioned.🙂
On another topic........................
For those of you who took at peek at the rusticled and ravaged mess that comprised the bottom sill and flange of my old Monte's Pass door, here is a progress shot of what I have managed to accomplish by way of creating a new bottom flange so far
And a detail shot of the little dots of weld as they march along the seam between the new sill flange and what was left of the old sill. The bubblegum nastiness in the upper right hand corner was part of the first attempt to repair the sill. Most of it was done using flux core wire while the door was still hung on the car, and out in the back yard on the rear parking pad. Not an excuse, just how it was. All of it is going to get ground down and dressed out to see what will emerge. More mig wire will be applied as necessary.
Just another detail shot of the front or leading edge of the inner door shell and the progress so far in reconstructing that leading inner edge. I will likely be using Mr. Dremel and a micro-wheel to get in to the tight spots and curves and turn all the nice little tacks and tags into smooth surfaces.
Once all this work is ground down, it will get a coat of anti-rust grey primer about the same color as the doors were primered at the factory. Then it will get stored away. At some point I will come across a driver's door that needs some rework and that will give me a pair.
And again, for those who question the work and time, check the OPGI catalogue for the cost of a bare inner door skin, aka what I call the "shell" although that term is more correctly applied to the inner and outer skins as a single unit, and remember that not only is that price in YSD, I also have to pay the shipping for an oversized box, plus the import duties and the exchange rate. All I have into what you see is my time and work. Since the door was already on the car, technically it is "free" and the replacement metal is leftovers from a truck box side replacement panel.
Nick
On another topic........................
For those of you who took at peek at the rusticled and ravaged mess that comprised the bottom sill and flange of my old Monte's Pass door, here is a progress shot of what I have managed to accomplish by way of creating a new bottom flange so far
And a detail shot of the little dots of weld as they march along the seam between the new sill flange and what was left of the old sill. The bubblegum nastiness in the upper right hand corner was part of the first attempt to repair the sill. Most of it was done using flux core wire while the door was still hung on the car, and out in the back yard on the rear parking pad. Not an excuse, just how it was. All of it is going to get ground down and dressed out to see what will emerge. More mig wire will be applied as necessary.
Just another detail shot of the front or leading edge of the inner door shell and the progress so far in reconstructing that leading inner edge. I will likely be using Mr. Dremel and a micro-wheel to get in to the tight spots and curves and turn all the nice little tacks and tags into smooth surfaces.
Once all this work is ground down, it will get a coat of anti-rust grey primer about the same color as the doors were primered at the factory. Then it will get stored away. At some point I will come across a driver's door that needs some rework and that will give me a pair.
And again, for those who question the work and time, check the OPGI catalogue for the cost of a bare inner door skin, aka what I call the "shell" although that term is more correctly applied to the inner and outer skins as a single unit, and remember that not only is that price in YSD, I also have to pay the shipping for an oversized box, plus the import duties and the exchange rate. All I have into what you see is my time and work. Since the door was already on the car, technically it is "free" and the replacement metal is leftovers from a truck box side replacement panel.
Nick
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Put the new 135 degree Taylor wires on the car today, in hindsight I should have just gone with the straight ends but I had a picture in my head that didn’t translate quite as nicely as I planned. They look pretty good anyhow. Luckily I went with black so they don’t stick out like a sore thumb. Need to do a lot of cleaning and get the rest of the engine compartment cleaned up before we install the fenders.
I ended up painting the embossed Olds valve covers because chrome plating was way more than I can justify for the sake of bling. So understated it is.
Also installed a new set of dash speakers, Kicker brand, that I got from Crutchfield. The originals were trashed so with the windshield out it was a good time to get that settled as the new one is getting installed this week. Time to start putting the old girl back together!
I ended up painting the embossed Olds valve covers because chrome plating was way more than I can justify for the sake of bling. So understated it is.
Also installed a new set of dash speakers, Kicker brand, that I got from Crutchfield. The originals were trashed so with the windshield out it was a good time to get that settled as the new one is getting installed this week. Time to start putting the old girl back together!
Since I haven't been on in a while (86 Regal with 350 Rocket & BOP 350 trans)...
1. Replaced front steering parts (tie rods, idler arms, etc...)
2. Installed BMR 1.5" drop kit (springs and Bilstein B6 shocks)
3. Installed new Kenwood KDC-X304 head unit (stereo), dash speakers, 4 ch amp, and 6x9s
4. Installed new radiator with dual electric fans
5. Installed new sheet metal on drivers side front. Floor is now ready to be completely cleaned then sound deadened.
6. Installed new valve covers/gaskets (old ones were leaking).
What needs to be addressed urgently:
V-belt squeal - I'm not sure what to do about this.
Drivers side front tire is rubbing at every bump (235/70/15 with 8" corvette rally wheels). I'm going with Cooper 235/60/15 all the way around and new 15x7 wheels w/ 4 inch backspacing.
New exhaust (current exhaust is hitting against the frame)
I have addressed quite a few things, but I have a long way to go.
1. Replaced front steering parts (tie rods, idler arms, etc...)
2. Installed BMR 1.5" drop kit (springs and Bilstein B6 shocks)
3. Installed new Kenwood KDC-X304 head unit (stereo), dash speakers, 4 ch amp, and 6x9s
4. Installed new radiator with dual electric fans
5. Installed new sheet metal on drivers side front. Floor is now ready to be completely cleaned then sound deadened.
6. Installed new valve covers/gaskets (old ones were leaking).
What needs to be addressed urgently:
V-belt squeal - I'm not sure what to do about this.
Drivers side front tire is rubbing at every bump (235/70/15 with 8" corvette rally wheels). I'm going with Cooper 235/60/15 all the way around and new 15x7 wheels w/ 4 inch backspacing.
New exhaust (current exhaust is hitting against the frame)
I have addressed quite a few things, but I have a long way to go.
For the belt squeal, a few things to check
Belt tension. it should only deflect or push in/out about its own thickness or less. Culprits here can include both the alternator/generator and the power steering pump if you have one.
Belt wear. Cracks in the carcass or along the V sides.
Mis-application, the wrong width belt for the pulleys.
Mis-alignment, the crank pulley, water pump pulley and accessory pulleys are not linearly in line with each other so the belt is riding to one side and trying to climb a pulley wall.
Nick
Belt tension. it should only deflect or push in/out about its own thickness or less. Culprits here can include both the alternator/generator and the power steering pump if you have one.
Belt wear. Cracks in the carcass or along the V sides.
Mis-application, the wrong width belt for the pulleys.
Mis-alignment, the crank pulley, water pump pulley and accessory pulleys are not linearly in line with each other so the belt is riding to one side and trying to climb a pulley wall.
Nick
Off the top of my head, it's alignment. I'll try to take detailed videos/pictures to get more insight from you guys. I did search the forum and I found a video showing how to track the noise down. It could also be mis-application.
If it is alignment, I'm not confident that I know what my next steps are but hopefully I can work through it. Swapping to serpentine on an olds doesn't seem to be the cheapest thing to do .
If it is alignment, I'm not confident that I know what my next steps are but hopefully I can work through it. Swapping to serpentine on an olds doesn't seem to be the cheapest thing to do .
Misalignment is not that hard to identify or locate. On pulleys it shows as smooth shiny places on the pulley shoulders. On the belt, one side is worn more or frayed more than the other. Easiest way to check for misalignment is just to remove the belt(s) and lay a thin metal yardstick down vertically into the pulley groove so it sits down on the bottom. if the metal strip gets forced one way or another to fall into place, that is your culprit. For myself, I don't this option as likely simply because you would have noticed it the first time you fired the engine with the accessories and belts in place.
Nick
Nick
Okay, I bought these Mounts from JEGS and it seemed to be the only mount set that I could find with a three hole triangle Pattern they at the time didn't seem to have the Clamshell I was looking for or they didn't show the hole pattern needed. As for the inner outer placement of the mount/s I know nothing about that. Either way I see that the mounts will hold up to stock 305 from 1984.
Rear axle truss welding done and new rear wheels/tires mounted with some steel 4" spacers tacked in to frame. Hasn't been out in the light on probably 24 months. 😢 Progress is still progress.
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