What Did You Do To Your G-Body Today? [2023]

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So this didn't start as a G-Body day in the shop, it was more of a surprise, the new transformer came in for the picnic cooler so let's see if the fossil works.

But that went so well and my energy level was up there so i spur-of-the-moment decided that I ought to do another in the ongoing series of engine oil primes that I periodically engage in. The theory is that if I can't remember the last time that I did one then it is time to do it again.
So that in mind, I barked up the compressor and used a long want to blow off all the dust and fallout and minor debris that had accumulated during the summer; actually not all that much and then removed the covers, then did the same thing for the engine and adjacent assemblies. Took that opportunity to shut the compressor off at the breaker box and then emptied both the tank and the water trap for winter.

For purposes of doing an engine pre-oil I have a special oil pump drive that I built and it sits in the engine in place of the timer so no need to lift the distributor. I also bring out my 1/2 drive drill motor as it has the needed torque to rotate the pump gears and drive the oil through the galleries and up into the rockers. The rocker tins are just an old set that I leave in place. They were the ones that were on the engine when it was dropped into place and bear the scars of being banged around.

It took about 10 minutes, maybe less, but at the end I had all 16 rockers showing oil flow and had the oil moving to the point it was oozing out of the rockers and down onto the springs. Counted that a success and re-installed the covers. Detached the drill from the pump drive and covered everything back up again. Did think and decide to set a strip of masking tape on the one rocker cover with the date of this pre-oil written on it. Memory? who needs a memory, ya have to have a mind for that and I don't mind at all. 😆

Looked at the clock and decided I had just enough obstinacy, stubbornness, and initiatve left to go after all the plug welds that hold the outer skin on the lower A-pillar door post assembly. I had, I think, identified all the dents and used a center punch and hammer to prep them so the 1/2 inch got fitted with a plug weld cutter and the fun began. Three cutters later, I think I have all the holes deep enough that the skin ought to pop free but it thinks otherwise. The thought now is to locate a panel separator and see if that can bring some daylight onto the subjject. Alos have to find some 5/64ths hex keys as that is the size of the allen screws that hold the drill bits in the shank and those bits commit suicide about every other weld.

Oh, yeah, The cooler? Well it did get cool inside but the transformer was quite warm to the touch. Shut the whole thing down and unplugged it. Now have to wonder if there is a thermostat in there that has decided to self destruct? Good thing the initial buy in on this was nada, zero,zilch, bupkus. Nothing substantial invested means I am out nothing if I decide to to turn the whole thing into a storage bin instead.



Nick
 
Brought some stuff to my nephew that he was not expecting. Made his day, but also made him think for what he got. As we all know sometimes thinking is painful and his being in pain is better than me being in pain. Anyway, I hate doing wiring at times and he’s good at it. Try to figure out if there’s a shortcut in tracing gauge power side vs. sensor side on the hardwiring to the center gauge pack.
No such luck so next is tracing the circuit board to the pin and splicing begins. 😖
 
Santa dropped off some cool stuff so I can get busy.. body’s back on the frame and I have a few vacation days to burn…. Good times
 

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I had all 16 rockers showing oil flow
The last fresh engine I woke up [Jeep 4.0] I could not believe how long it took to get oil at each rocker. Just imagine the engine running for half an hour with no oil at the rockers. I usually use a cut-down distributor for priming. But I am so stuck in the past that it is all that is needed.
 
My pre-oiler candidate is actually my year correct motor for my 85SS. it is not new or rebuilt to any great degree. I did get to drive it when I bought the vehicle it was harvested from and at the time it did run well. The only thing I discovered was a surfeit of orange! ATV that someone had applied to certain of the gasket surfaces at some point. Got rid of that right quick. What I did do with this motor is to plumb in a mechanical gauge for the oil that is fed directly from the gallery beside the distributor boss. That way I can keep an eye on the oil pressure as the pump goes about its business. For the exercise this afternoon, the gauge was showing in excess of 70 psi cold with 5W30 in the pan.

Almost as soon as this motor is actually fired again and allowed to warm up, the oil and filter will get pulled and new put in. I may also fillet the filter just for the sake of seeing what may be seen, or not.

It does have a brand new Isky Cam and related bits waiting for it on the Number Two Indian work bench. All those components were purchased a long time ago in anticipation of tweaking this mill just a little. so it all predates the great quality melt down that occurred in the last few years. The related bits include the lifters and Comp Rockers and pushrods, basically the whold top end geometry. Made in USA before the great exodus to the land of mediocrity. Also stocked up on Zinc rich oil and zinc additives for the break in.

Not personally happy that Royal Purple has ceased to offer their own brand of oil filter. I am not personally fond of Fram filters after they got rid of the serrated bottom edge in favor of that goofy traction coating. Literally had to eviscerate one of their filters to get it off the oil filter mounting nipple. K&N has that goofy sheet metal "hex" plug welded to the bottom of their filters and even a chinese made no brand wrench could easily destroy that bit of cheesiness. Just might end up going with WIX if they offer a high perfromance or street performance series of filters for SBC's.;


Nick
 
My pre-oiler candidate is actually my year correct motor for my 85SS. it is not new or rebuilt to any great degree. I did get to drive it when I bought the vehicle it was harvested from and at the time it did run well. The only thing I discovered was a surfeit of orange! ATV that someone had applied to certain of the gasket surfaces at some point. Got rid of that right quick. What I did do with this motor is to plumb in a mechanical gauge for the oil that is fed directly from the gallery beside the distributor boss. That way I can keep an eye on the oil pressure as the pump goes about its business. For the exercise this afternoon, the gauge was showing in excess of 70 psi cold with 5W30 in the pan.

Almost as soon as this motor is actually fired again and allowed to warm up, the oil and filter will get pulled and new put in. I may also fillet the filter just for the sake of seeing what may be seen, or not.

It does have a brand new Isky Cam and related bits waiting for it on the Number Two Indian work bench. All those components were purchased a long time ago in anticipation of tweaking this mill just a little. so it all predates the great quality melt down that occurred in the last few years. The related bits include the lifters and Comp Rockers and pushrods, basically the whold top end geometry. Made in USA before the great exodus to the land of mediocrity. Also stocked up on Zinc rich oil and zinc additives for the break in.

Not personally happy that Royal Purple has ceased to offer their own brand of oil filter. I am not personally fond of Fram filters after they got rid of the serrated bottom edge in favor of that goofy traction coating. Literally had to eviscerate one of their filters to get it off the oil filter mounting nipple. K&N has that goofy sheet metal "hex" plug welded to the bottom of their filters and even a chinese made no brand wrench could easily destroy that bit of cheesiness. Just might end up going with WIX if they offer a high performance or street performance series of filters for SBC's.;


Nick
WIX is the best spin-on filter I've found, STP is basically just a blue version of them, and Napa Gold filters are identical to WIX internally. We cut open a bunch of filters once to have a look, and what we found has been echoed on numerous forums from others' personal experiences. Beyond the excellent build quality, the racing filters trap particles down to 61 microns, the regular gets down to 21, and the XP line goes as small as around 10 microns.

Using the WIX racing filter with 0 weight oil makes a minorly noticeable and repeatable difference in E.T.s, but don't run either of those things on a street driven vehicle.

Fram is a horrible filter internally and you couldn't pay me to run one. Cheap finned paper, cardboard, and hot glue in a thin metal can is all they are. Better brands have an expanded metal cage around the filter to prevent it from blowing out and pushing against the body, and some even utilize cotton filter media.

K&N oil filters are great but are way overpriced- they're banking on the name. I used them for years with a remote mount dual filter setup. They do have excellent anti-drainback valves though.

Canister style filters are where it's at if you want to see what's going on, and WIX has those too (Cartridge Lube line). The Corvette guys with the L79 327s like the 51143.

A canister with a reusable filter is the next level up- you can buy two filters and just swap them around so you don't need to wash it during the oil change. There's the "Pure Power Lifetime Filter" which I've not ran but had a boss with a 9 sec 1/4 mile '68 Barracuda that did. That engine had Indy aluminum everything and Hilborn mechanical injection running methanol.

There are stainless no name versions on eBay I'd be willing to try that are much more affordable, or you could buy a Speedmaster or Professional Products canister and run a better filter inside.
Canton Racing makes very good canister filters too, and at the very top of the pile would be a setup from System 1.
 
WIX is the best spin-on filter I've found, STP is basically just a blue version of them, and Napa Gold filters are identical to WIX internally. We cut open a bunch of filters once to have a look, and what we found has been echoed on numerous forums from others' personal experiences. Beyond the excellent build quality, the racing filters trap particles down to 61 microns, the regular gets down to 21, and the XP line goes as small as around 10 microns.

Using the WIX racing filter with 0 weight oil makes a minorly noticeable and repeatable difference in E.T.s, but don't run either of those things on a street driven vehicle.

Fram is a horrible filter internally and you couldn't pay me to run one. Cheap finned paper, cardboard, and hot glue in a thin metal can is all they are. Better brands have an expanded metal cage around the filter to prevent it from blowing out and pushing against the body, and some even utilize cotton filter media.

K&N oil filters are great but are way overpriced- they're banking on the name. I used them for years with a remote mount dual filter setup. They do have excellent anti-drainback valves though.

Canister style filters are where it's at if you want to see what's going on, and WIX has those too (Cartridge Lube line). The Corvette guys with the L79 327s like the 51143.

A canister with a reusable filter is the next level up- you can buy two filters and just swap them around so you don't need to wash it during the oil change. There's the "Pure Power Lifetime Filter" which I've not ran but had a boss with a 9 sec 1/4 mile '68 Barracuda that did. That engine had Indy aluminum everything and Hilborn mechanical injection running methanol.

There are stainless no name versions on eBay I'd be willing to try that are much more affordable, or you could buy a Speedmaster or Professional Products canister and run a better filter inside.
Canton Racing makes very good canister filters too, and at the very top of the pile would be a setup from System 1.
Only thing I would add to that is the Napa filter is identical because Wix makes them for Napa
 
Only thing I would add to that is the Napa filter is identical because Wix makes them for Napa

And Valvoline makes their oil, so I'm all about a Napa oil change special.
 
And Valvoline makes their oil, so I'm all about a Napa oil change special.
I didn't know that, thanks for sharing! I do know that some of the "house brand" oils sold at O'Reilly's and the like are made by Havoline, and who makes their oil varies by regional location.
 
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