What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2021]

[CopperNick]

Nearest independent saw mill is about a 1/2 hour west of me. Not sure how it works; whether he saws down what you bring in or sells from existing stock. I actually do have a commercial grade overhead planer as well as the matching edger sitting down stairs in the basement. Both belonged to my dad who bought them from the estate of a friend of his who was a cabinet maker. Thing is, there is no room down there to correctly feed and tail them and my garage is for cars and bikes and such like. Saw dust is a nuisance to clean up and explosive in large amounts under certain circumstances. To this day I am still finding pockets of the stuff down there that have been lurking in corners and under benches for decades.

Did have another idea on the subject though. Depends on how many good used softwood pallets I can scrounge that I can harvest for my needs but time is on my side here.



Nick

 

[5spdCab]

Not sure what you have around locally, but, we got to the point a while ago that it made sense to drop a couple hundred on a bench top electric planer and just buy seasoned rough sawn from one of the local saw mills. We've got two, in opposite directions from the house, each about 25 minutes away.

I priced the cost per board ft on the different sizes of lumber we would need as that seasoned rough sawn, and compared it to what the local retail outlets came in for finished dimensional, and it was almost 25% cheaper to buy the planer & rough sawn stock just for one load. It paid for itself in that first load of boards so from here on out its free - that means if I need any extra lumber it's likely going to save me 35 or 40%, maybe more depending where prices go.

Sure, there's a cost to our time using it, BUT, to me that's free - just need to cover consumables for the machine and electric. At about a 6x12 max capacity I can feed multiple boards through together side by side on width anyways, if not thickness. Real world I got down to about 20 ft/minute. Sure, they're rated in the mid to upper 20s, but it takes time to insert and line up new wood after the prior one(s) finish, stack things, etc.

I like acquiring tools that pay for themselves quickly, even if only needed for one job, if they save money and/or time in the end, its very much worth it, like getting free tools.

 

[motorheadmike]

Wife comes home and says "the low oil light is on in my truck." "You mean the change oil light, right?" - I responded. "No, it said: low oil." she says firmly. "F*ck!" I exclaim.

Almost 2 litres of oil later...

I jump in the TBSS to get the big one from school and find the SES is on. Turn it off and back on again. Nope still there. Plug in the scanner and get a P0333 for knock sensor 2 circuit high. Clear the code and immediately go into boost.

Today is going to be one of those days.

I completely forgot to add that this was right after we found out our insurance company (house and auto) of 15+ years was dropping us because we inquired about home business insurance. The company has been idle since we incorporated in October 2020 (no sales). They gave us 5 business days to find a new provider... our broker was pissed.

This is what happens when you try to do the right thing.

 

[mclellan83]

Need some more input on my wheel issue, got the specs from the forged wheel company on what their "engineers " say should be made. Currently the blazer has the vette 9.5 wide up front and 11 out back with over a 1" spacer to push it out. I am doing a staggered 18/20 with the v1 ctsv big front calipers. They want to do an 18x8.5 up front and 20x10 in the back with only a 3" lip from the looks of it.

Am I crazy to be getting really mad that they are almost like a wheel I can buy off the shelf when I'm dropping over 4k on them? I think up front they can still probably do a 9.5 wide but could accept if they say only 8.5 if the back wasn't such a disappointment. In the back with currently have an 11" work fine with a spacer that's closer to 1.25", since they are supposed to custom make a wheel I would think they could do a 12" wide wheel since I have the cladding to come out and sit flush with. Really thinking of telling the company to shove it and give me my deposit back. Problem is I can't find something with a lip in the back like I want so was willing to accept I have to go forged. But only getting a 3.5" lip when I think it could easily be 6"

 

[g0thiac]

Sprayed the Caprice with Rust Check. Still needs bodywork regardless, but hopefully it will slow down any rusting at least.

 

[scoti]

Took it out for a drive. This one has been sitting too much lately. But, it reminded me I needed to lube the suspension pieces (rear 4-bar especially) & dig into the front brakes/calipers to stop the stupid rattling. Still a fun truck (except for parking lots).....

 

[ck80]

Need some more input on my wheel issue, got the specs from the forged wheel company on what their "engineers " say should be made. Currently the blazer has the vette 9.5 wide up front and 11 out back with over a 1" spacer to push it out. I am doing a staggered 18/20 with the v1 ctsv big front calipers. They want to do an 18x8.5 up front and 20x10 in the back with only a 3" lip from the looks of it.

Am I crazy to be getting really mad that they are almost like a wheel I can buy off the shelf when I'm dropping over 4k on them? I think up front they can still probably do a 9.5 wide but could accept if they say only 8.5 if the back wasn't such a disappointment. In the back with currently have an 11" work fine with a spacer that's closer to 1.25", since they are supposed to custom make a wheel I would think they could do a 12" wide wheel since I have the cladding to come out and sit flush with. Really thinking of telling the company to shove it and give me my deposit back. Problem is I can't find something with a lip in the back like I want so was willing to accept I have to go forged. But only getting a 3.5" lip when I think it could easily be 6"

Taking a shot in the dark here, but it sounds like their engineers are advising the sales side of things of a maximum negative offset they're willing to put out there, both from a material stress and a handling dynamics standpoint.

If they build it and something negative happens down the road - whether it's 'illegal' due to protrusion beyond the body or someone damages something as a result of improper use - they could be liable for having built it.

Not saying that's the case, or that they're right. But something like that could be a reason.

 

[Texas82GP]

Took it out for a drive. This one has been sitting too much lately. But, it reminded me I needed to lube the suspension pieces (rear 4-bar especially) & dig into the front brakes/calipers to stop the stupid rattling. Still a fun truck (except for parking lots).....

Very cool truck.

 

[motorheadmike]

Need some more input on my wheel issue, got the specs from the forged wheel company on what their "engineers " say should be made. Currently the blazer has the vette 9.5 wide up front and 11 out back with over a 1" spacer to push it out. I am doing a staggered 18/20 with the v1 ctsv big front calipers. They want to do an 18x8.5 up front and 20x10 in the back with only a 3" lip from the looks of it.

Am I crazy to be getting really mad that they are almost like a wheel I can buy off the shelf when I'm dropping over 4k on them? I think up front they can still probably do a 9.5 wide but could accept if they say only 8.5 if the back wasn't such a disappointment. In the back with currently have an 11" work fine with a spacer that's closer to 1.25", since they are supposed to custom make a wheel I would think they could do a 12" wide wheel since I have the cladding to come out and sit flush with. Really thinking of telling the company to shove it and give me my deposit back. Problem is I can't find something with a lip in the back like I want so was willing to accept I have to go forged. But only getting a 3.5" lip when I think it could easily be 6"

They may be doing a failure analysis or they are trying to make it safe for you with respect to fitment.

And I know I harp on this a lot, and it doesn't necessarily apply to you, but people buy the "what's the widest wheels" wheels because they are risk adverse/lazy. Everyone wants that ultra custom maximum effort look - but only want to lift their wallet. And even then only open it long enough to get "a" solution... and their 7/10th safe solution gets them their dopamine hit without the disappointments.

We both know you know what you want.

So you need to demand they be made to your specs, given a valid reason why not... or go elsewhere.

 

[scoti]

They may be doing a failure analysis or they are trying to make it safe for you with respect to fitment.

And I know I harp on this a lot, and it doesn't necessarily apply to you, but people buy the "what's the widest wheels" wheels because they are risk adverse/lazy. Everyone wants that ultra custom maximum effort look - but only want to lift their wallet. And even then only open it long enough to get "a" solution... and their 7/10th safe solution gets them their dopamine hit without the disappointments.

We both know you know what you want.

So you need to demand they be made to your specs, given a valid reason why not... or go elsewhere.

Agreed. If you did your due diligence for validating the numbers you provide to them & are willing to accept the fall-out if they don't fit, they should build what you want if it's within their safety margin.