What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2021]

[mclellan83]

Cut out of work early on Friday to change the oil on the GTO and retap the wheel studs on one of my wheels, luckily I did cause I ended up driving it most of the weekend. With the rain possibilities I decided to take it to Cars N Coffee and the Steel City Xpo, stopped for lunch then had some fun runs on the highway between the two shows. Went home cause they were calling for heavy rain, it never showed so decided to go meet up to go to another car show. Was waiting at Get Go in the Monte, since I was waiting a while I shut the car off. When I went to start back up she wouldn't start, battery was right at the cusp and think it could have flooded. Didn't want to start even with the jump pack since it had been sitting in the car a while it wasn't fully charged anymore. So ran home to get some jumpers and between the time to let the flood dry out and get a good feed from my buddies car to the battery it fired up. Driving home it stalled out again once but fired back up, so I decided to not take it yesterday to the other Cars N Coffee. On the way home from the show I ended up losing my roof spoiler, so guess I am gonna have to order another one to replace it

 

[81cutlass]

Cast iron cookware electrolysis.

 

[scoti]

Gave the Cabriolet it's 1st rinse/bath of my ownership.

The 60yr old re-spray job is letting loose fairly easy. It just got a mild spray, wipe & rinse as far the exterior clean-up. I spent some time on the pass side of the firewall & it cleaned up pretty decent. I'll work on the drivers side this week.

My steering column for my 64 C10 is finished @ the rebuilders. I should have it within a week & then I'll get back on it to finish up the front end C/O conversion.

 

[5spdCab]

Yesterday, I drug both of my 2.3L Ford motors out to the middle of my carport and stripped them both of of their intake/exhaust manifolds. The old motor that I pulled from the Pinto was carbureted. The one I want to install is EFI/turbo charged, but I have no tuning/maintenance experience with turbo and fuel injected engines. I was told that the turbo motor "was running when pulled out". To prevent blowing up a turbo engine, I plan to install the old carbureted intake/exhaust manifolds to run the engine for a while, and begin studying EFI/turbo maintenance. Besides that, the car has not been run for 25 years now, I think that I will need to go through and check out the brake system for leaking seals, wheel and master cylinders, return springs, and drums. Critters have also nested in the car, so I will take a good look at the electrical systems and wiring. After that I can search for an engine wiring harness and begin to consider reinstalling the turbo/EFI manifolds.

 

[ck80]

Yesterday, I drug both of my 2.3L Ford motors out to the middle of my carport and stripped them both of of their intake/exhaust manifolds. The old motor that I pulled from the Pinto was carbureted. The one I want to install is EFI/turbo charged, but I have no tuning/maintenance experience with turbo and fuel injected engines. I was told that the turbo motor "was running when pulled out". To prevent blowing up a turbo engine, I plan to install the old carbureted intake/exhaust manifolds to run the engine for a while, and begin studying EFI/turbo maintenance. Besides that, the car has not been run for 25 years now, I think that I will need to go through and check out the brake system for leaking seals, wheel and master cylinders, return springs, and drums. Critters have also nested in the car, so I will take a good look at the electrical systems and wiring. After that I can search for an engine wiring harness and begin to consider reinstalling the turbo/EFI manifolds.

I know absolutely zero about those motors.

That said, it wouldn't shock me if there were differences in pistons/CR or camshafts that would make the turbo motor longblock run like crap with the carb setup on it, not to mention if there are other vacuum, emission plumbing, etc issues and differences.

 

[g0thiac]

Bought a new battery cable for power, I will see about cleaning the ground one since its not damaged but just really dirty.

If that doesn't work, I will buy more lol.

 

[5spdCab]

I know absolutely zero about those motors.

That said, it wouldn't shock me if there were differences in pistons/CR or camshafts that would make the turbo motor longblock run like crap with the carb setup on it, not to mention if there are other vacuum, emission plumbing, etc issues and differences.

I can probably expect lower compression from the cylinders, but I'm thinking that it would probably still run.
I can ask over on the Turbo Ford website, and also on the Ford Pinto website.

 

[CopperNick]

Going to have to make this quick as my body and bones are all the way into high range and over drive in the "we hurt" department.

Just finished executing a snatch and grab on the old TH350 that had been in my G-10 Van since the factory original blew its guts out at a service station that i used to use. Total puke all over the gas pump concrete pads. Needed a ro-ro to come and take it to a local T-mission shop. Johnny didn't even think rebuild, just yanked the corpse and stuffed in a replacement. Never was too sure if that second unit had been given a rebuild or if it was just a shelf critter with a check and go done to it.

Anyway, the old 350 came out without too much sturm und drang. Surprised me as I had thought it might fight back since this was a do it myself by myself operation. That was Part One for the day.

Part Two was to shift the old unit off the transmission jack and over to a flat dolly. Roll it out of the way and move the now empty jack up shop to the cherry picker, remove the 700R4 from the engine stand and deposit it on the jack. Then return the jack and load back under the van and attempt an install. Uh-UH. Come to find out that six layers of cribbing gives great me room but puts the jack out at the limit of its lift ability and beyond it unless a couple of sections of 2" x 10" got added to the tray to lift the transmission just that little bit more. Attempt numero two succeeded.

Which brings me to my question of the evening.

WHAT IS THE TORQUE VALUE OR SPEC IN FOOT/POUNDS FOR THE 700R4 CASE TO EN GINE BLOCK BOLTS AND ALSO FOR THE RING GEAR TO THE TORQUE CONVERTER???

Sorry about the caps; have been told that is supposedly yelling but it has been that kind of a long weekend. Absolutely NO help from the interwebs. The best I could discover was a guesstimate in the range of 35-45 for the case bolts and 35 -? for the converter bolts. As a total sidebar, when I went to remove those old converter bolts, I ended up having to remove the oil filter and use a 1/2 air impact gun; couldn't get enough room to apply sufficient leverage using hand tools and even my longest power bar, nothing happened. Air is wonderful, 6 point impact sockets that have been introduced to a lathe to shave them for better set down are even better. That tapered shoulder is nice but having full flats on the socket sittting against their counterparts on the bolt or nut is pure insurance.

So the 700R4 is currently solidly attached to the block using Grade Eight Capscrews fitted with flats and locks. The factory bolts were grade 5's with the "M" stamped in their heads. They were forty-one years old so about time to retire them methinks. The converter bolts are an ARP product and will get some locktite blue love before I set them into place and torque them.

Appreciate anyone on the board who has a proper and detailed reference text for factory torque values taking the time to post. As I noted above running a search engine for those values got me bupkus in useable replies but a lot of "expert" chest thumping instead. Had considered going to 50 for the case to block bolts given they are grade 8 and 3/8ths, plus going 40-45 on the converter bolts; with the locktite the 40 might be sufficient, but it is always nice to have a seasoned and learned opinion backed by a correct answer to work with.

Thanks in advance, Tylenol feels like it is starting to work so time for a major soak down and the rack.



Nick

 

[Texas82GP]

Going to have to make this quick as my body and bones are all the way into high range and over drive in the "we hurt" department.

Just finished executing a snatch and grab on the old TH350 that had been in my G-10 Van since the factory original blew its guts out at a service station that i used to use. Total puke all over the gas pump concrete pads. Needed a ro-ro to come and take it to a local T-mission shop. Johnny didn't even think rebuild, just yanked the corpse and stuffed in a replacement. Never was too sure if that second unit had been given a rebuild or if it was just a shelf critter with a check and go done to it.

Anyway, the old 350 came out without too much sturm und drang. Surprised me as I had thought it might fight back since this was a do it myself by myself operation. That was Part One for the day.

Part Two was to shift the old unit off the transmission jack and over to a flat dolly. Roll it out of the way and move the now empty jack up shop to the cherry picker, remove the 700R4 from the engine stand and deposit it on the jack. Then return the jack and load back under the van and attempt an install. Uh-UH. Come to find out that six layers of cribbing gives great me room but puts the jack out at the limit of its lift ability and beyond it unless a couple of sections of 2" x 10" got added to the tray to lift the transmission just that little bit more. Attempt numero two succeeded.

Which brings me to my question of the evening.

WHAT IS THE TORQUE VALUE OR SPEC IN FOOT/POUNDS FOR THE 700R4 CASE TO EN GINE BLOCK BOLTS AND ALSO FOR THE RING GEAR TO THE TORQUE CONVERTER???

Sorry about the caps; have been told that is supposedly yelling but it has been that kind of a long weekend. Absolutely NO help from the interwebs. The best I could discover was a guesstimate in the range of 35-45 for the case bolts and 35 -? for the converter bolts. As a total sidebar, when I went to remove those old converter bolts, I ended up having to remove the oil filter and use a 1/2 air impact gun; couldn't get enough room to apply sufficient leverage using hand tools and even my longest power bar, nothing happened. Air is wonderful, 6 point impact sockets that have been introduced to a lathe to shave them for better set down are even better. That tapered shoulder is nice but having full flats on the socket sittting against their counterparts on the bolt or nut is pure insurance.

So the 700R4 is currently solidly attached to the block using Grade Eight Capscrews fitted with flats and locks. The factory bolts were grade 5's with the "M" stamped in their heads. They were forty-one years old so about time to retire them methinks. The converter bolts are an ARP product and will get some locktite blue love before I set them into place and torque them.

Appreciate anyone on the board who has a proper and detailed reference text for factory torque values taking the time to post. As I noted above running a search engine for those values got me bupkus in useable replies but a lot of "expert" chest thumping instead. Had considered going to 50 for the case to block bolts given they are grade 8 and 3/8ths, plus going 40-45 on the converter bolts; with the locktite the 40 might be sufficient, but it is always nice to have a seasoned and learned opinion backed by a correct answer to work with.

Thanks in advance, Tylenol feels like it is starting to work so time for a major soak down and the rack.



Nick

The closest I can come is the factory service manual from my old 89 Chevy truck. Transmission to engine - 75 Ft. lbs. Converter to Flywheel - 62 Ft. lbs.

Hope this helps.

 

[CopperNick]

COOL!!! The 700R4 came out of an 85 C-10 and is being stuffed into an 80 G-10. I have the correct plumbing and electrical bits for the new candidate so that becomes a matter of mating and matching what is there with what is incoming. Those values listed are a lot higher than what I had come across but seem to be more realistic for the job being done. Access to a factory service manual for an 85 G-10 would have been the bomb here but, like chicken lips, they have become rarer on the ground than once was the case. THANKS LARGE!!



Nick