What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2022]

[Hurricane77]

Yeah Mazda was never great with rustproofing. Like your Mazda 3, this CX-5 isn't a bad car, it's just aging faster than I think it should. Wheel bearings that bad to replace?


It's a 2015. I like the SuperCabs. Enough room that I can fit people if I have to, but if I'm with a group, no one is choosing to take my truck if it means riding back there. Its actually not that cramped. I'm 6'2" and I can sit back there. It's tight, but I fit. The supercrews are nice, I love how spacious the rear is, but I never ride back there. The Supercrews with the 5.5' box are very common. The 5.5' box is just too short for what I need to haul and the Supercrew 6.5 bed has the turning radius of a barge.

They're not a unit bearing design like most FWD cars nowadays. In theory, one could remove the CV axle from the hub, use a slide hammer to pull the hub from the bearing, remove the c-clip and then use the slide hammer again to remove the bearing and then do the reverse to reinstall. I've always had to pull the knuckle from the car and use a press to get the hub out of the bear. And every time the bearing has separated on me. So then you have use a bearing puller or cut the bearing race off the hub. And then use the press again to get the remainder of the bearing out of the knuckle. Just a way bigger pain than it needs to be.

If you're not in the rust belt, maybe it's easier. I just find I go through them way faster than necessary.

As for the truck. Yeah, same here. Didn't need the Super Crew for 90% of the time and found the 5.5' bed too small. The things long enough without going to a Super Crew with 6.5'

 

[81cutlass]

Ive hinted that my next project is going to be a 73/74 Omega or Apollo that's more drag focused and is 8.50 legal from day 1 so I can get into drag and drive events. Been looking for a good chassis and there's not much available. I just want something with a title, minimum rust and not butchered.

I don't need something as I'm plenty busy but I've got my eyes open.

Stumbled on one locally. Rural MN car in nice shape that's stayed off the salt. Just a little quarter bubbling that's easy to fix. Factory I6 car that has a 20% SBC swap. Car is clean original factory 60k mile chassis but the guy got in over his head on the engine swap and dumped a bit too much into 70's era speed parts into it and wants out.

He thinks the '4 bolt main SBC that's bored out to a 383 stroker' along with the hooker headers, electric fuel pump and thrush mufflers make it worth more.

I think it was worth more as a nice running I6 car then what it is now.

The SBC needs $1500 of small things to get right and it's clearly a smog era 305 with a rattle can orange rebuild and $100 of swap meet parts.

I'm willing to offer like half of what he wants for it and I tried the 'i don't want to insult you' trick to see if I could low-ball him and he just said your welcome when I thanked him for his time so I think he 'knows what he's got'.

Probably for the best, I've got a lot of other things going on but still probably the only viable candidate I've seen for the last 16 months that I've been looking.

 

[DRIVEN]

Ive hinted that my next project is going to be a 73/74 Omega or Apollo that's more drag focused and is 8.50 legal from day 1 so I can get into drag and drive events. Been looking for a good chassis and there's not much available. I just want something with a title, minimum rust and not butchered.

I don't need something as I'm plenty busy but I've got my eyes open.

Stumbled on one locally. Rural MN car in nice shape that's stayed off the salt. Just a little quarter bubbling that's easy to fix. Factory I6 car that has a 20% SBC swap. Car is clean original factory 60k mile chassis but the guy got in over his head on the engine swap and dumped a bit too much into 70's era speed parts into it and wants out.

He thinks the '4 bolt main SBC that's bored out to a 383 stroker' along with the hooker headers, electric fuel pump and thrush mufflers make it worth more.

I think it was worth more as a nice running I6 car then what it is now.

The SBC needs $1500 of small things to get right and it's clearly a smog era 305 with a rattle can orange rebuild and $100 of swap meet parts.

I'm willing to offer like half of what he wants for it and I tried the 'i don't want to insult you' trick to see if I could low-ball him and he just said your welcome when I thanked him for his time so I think he 'knows what he's got'.

Probably for the best, I've got a lot of other things going on but still probably the only viable candidate I've seen for the last 16 months that I've been looking.

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Looks like a decent car to start with (for Minnesota). If he's so proud of the drivetrain, did you ask if he'd sell the car as a roller?

 

[scoti]

Looks like a decent car to start with (for Minnesota). If he's so proud of the drivetrain, did you ask if he'd sell the car as a roller?

x2

 

[81cutlass]

Looks like a decent car to start with (for Minnesota). If he's so proud of the drivetrain, did you ask if he'd sell the car as a roller?

I did. He wants to sell the car complete. I said I'm interested if the price comes down or he's willing to split the drivetrain.

Knowing the stupid market somebody will probably dump $7500 on it. Maybe we are past that phase with high gas, inflation & expensive interest? TBD....

 

[ck80]

I did. He wants to sell the car complete. I said I'm interested if the price comes down or he's willing to split the drivetrain.

Knowing the stupid market somebody will probably dump $7500 on it. Maybe we are past that phase with high gas, inflation & expensive interest? TBD....

So, what's the target price range? We might help you spy a clean southern or western car, shipping is always cheaper than bodywork...

 

[CopperNick]

So, okay, he says stroked 350 taken out to 383, you say 305. Were you able to access the back of the block and read the casting code? Does he have any receipts for the work done to the block to bore it? Stroker kit used?? Vendor has to have some basis for his claims as to value, not some hype and hoke from Craigs List or FarceBook.

Otherwise, your pictures of the rear end show definite signs of es



Nick

 

[ck80]

I think there's cheaper options out there, but, this is for sale up in Atlanta

Supposed to be a 73 Omega, 350/350 but losing reverse. If you believe things then body and interior don't need work.

But better platform for the money than what that guy with the red one is dreaming of.

 

[81cutlass]

So, okay, he says stroked 350 taken out to 383, you say 305. Were you able to access the back of the block and read the casting code? Does he have any receipts for the work done to the block to bore it? Stroker kit used?? Vendor has to have some basis for his claims as to value, not some hype and hoke from Craigs List or FarceBook.

Otherwise, your pictures of the rear end show definite signs of es



Nick

I don't know it's a 305 in fact, but it's equally worthless to me either way. Whatever I end up putting in it isn't going to be an SBC.

I just assume any time someone has a '383' with orange paint and see black under it I assume it's a lame smog 305 that spent it's rounds in a rusty square body before being parted out.

He traded the engine from his buddy which means no receipts and he's going off someone's word.

I think there's cheaper options out there, but, this is for sale up in Atlanta

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Supposed to be a 73 Omega, 350/350 but losing reverse. If you believe things then body and interior don't need work.

But better platform for the money than what that guy with the red one is dreaming of.

Yeah that particular car is in my saved page. $7500, probably could get for $6000. Its a hatch also so more on my list of desires. Plus it runs.

I'm just not in 'drive to GA' need level of territory yet. Maybe next spring when the cutlass is done and 2+2 runs a 10.

So, what's the target price range? We might help you spy a clean southern or western car, shipping is always cheaper than bodywork...

1000-2500 for a basket case roller that needs minimal rust repair like floor pan and quarter patches at most, 2500-4500 for a 95% rust free roller with mostly complete interior paint condition is flexible, 4500-6500 for a 95% rust free runner that needs some tuning/refinement and light body work.

I value this red one at 4000. Its for all intents and purposes a roller and needs light rust repair but savable.

 

[ck80]

I don't know it's a 305 in fact, but it's equally worthless to me either way. Whatever I end up putting in it isn't going to be an SBC.

I just assume any time someone has a '383' with orange paint and see black under it I assume it's a lame smog 305 that spent it's rounds in a rusty square body before being parted out.

He traded the engine from his buddy which means no receipts and he's going off someone's word.



Yeah that particular car is in my saved page. $7500, probably could get for $6000. Its a hatch also so more on my list of desires. Plus it runs.

I'm just not in 'drive to GA' need level of territory yet. Maybe next spring when the cutlass is done and 2+2 runs a 10.



1000-2500 for a basket case roller that needs minimal rust repair like floor pan and quarter patches at most, 2500-4500 for a 95% rust free roller with mostly complete interior paint condition is flexible, 4500-6500 for a 95% rust free runner that needs some tuning/refinement and light body work.

I value this red one at 4000. Its for all intents and purposes a roller and needs light rust repair but savable.

What scares me most about the red one is those quarters look like bondo jobs? Maybe just picture. Could be bubbling paint looks weird.

But if it is bondo, I'd bet there's more elsewhere that hadn't bubbled up yet, which also brings us to..... vinyl roof. Hider of all sorts of evils on 70s cars that sat around a bunch. A nice painted hardtop is less period correct, but, also hides nothing.

But, with a budget like you throw around, you should be able to get something decent.

Besides, if you do powertour this summer, could plan to look at a bunch of cars while on the trip.