What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2023]

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You're gonna buff and polish the rest of the car anyway, right?

I didn't really want to but these fenders are gonna look way too shiny if I don't. My grandfather probably wouldn't have cared if I put them on without painting them but I'd still like to do the best job possible. But I hate to go overboard because this car has plenty of scuffs and scratches elsewhere.
 
I didn't really want to but these fenders are gonna look way too shiny if I don't. My grandfather probably wouldn't have cared if I put them on without painting them but I'd still like to do the best job possible. But I hate to go overboard because this car has plenty of scuffs and scratches elsewhere.
Whelp, there's always going back to the idea of having Tynan help paint them... doubt they'd be shiny or new looking then.
 
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My F150 is due for inspection and I knew the rear brakes were gonna be close so I bought a set of pads and swapped them out today. The original pads have lasted 87k miles so OEM was my first choice but they cost about $75 after shipping from Rockauto which is a bit more than I wanted to pay. I've read a lot of good reviews on Powerstop Z36 brakes and they were about $30 cheaper, so that is what I went with. The old rear pads still had about another millimeter or two left on them, the rotors look perfect. There was one stuck slide pin with a torn boot but it hadn't affected the pad wear yet. I got it freed up for now and a new boot on the way.
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My F150 is due for inspection and I knew the rear brakes were gonna be close so I bought a set of pads and swapped them out today. The original pads have lasted 87k miles so OEM was my first choice but they cost about $75 after shipping from Rockauto which is a bit more than I wanted to pay. I've read a lot of good reviews on Powerstop Z36 brakes and they were about $30 cheaper, so that is what I went with. The old rear pads still had about another millimeter or two left on them, the rotors look perfect. There was one stuck slide pin with a torn boot but it hadn't affected the pad wear yet. I got it freed up for now and a new boot on the way.
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Let me know how they wear in and how happy you are with them vs the Motorcraft stuff. 90k isn't bad for a truck that's both heavy and doing truck stuff.

We did the pads on my wife's beater '16 mustang. Had 135k on the original pads, rotors still OK. Pads were probably down to about 30-40% wear remaining, but, with the mileage I had figured it was time and had already bought them before taking things apart to check so... it wasn't horrible though, price-wise. Only reason I stuck with Ford was I figured the engineers likely balanced the steel hardness of the rotors and the material of pads for wear. I know plenty of those 'lifetime warranty' brands purposely make one thing or the other harder and all of a sudden your 'lifetime pads' chew into the rotors fast... or vice versa.
 
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Power stop is who I used for rear brake shoes on my dually. They're semi-metallic bonded shoes, the only ones I could find like that. They have a GG coefficient of friction and are super aggressive, too aggressive for an empty truck. I've been very impressed with them and it's left a good taste in my mouth for the brand.

Today I decided to try cooking some car batteries to try and breathe some life back into them.

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The procedure was just like using a stick welder, but that charger has a 200A setting so I used that. First up was a group 75 Interstate side post, initial reading was 12.3V and failed the load test miserably. Zapped it for 3 5 minute sessions and it reeked like rotten eggs as I did it, so not sure if I can use it or not. It's a 750CCA battery and showed 800CCA after the 3rd hit and held it. Next up was an Advance Auto Parts battery in my 1500. It randomly became weak, but would still always start my truck so lived with it until now. 10.4V initial and failed the load test worse than the 1st. Was showing near 1000 CCA after the first hit and just over after the second hit so I put it back in the truck. It's like new. The 3rd battery showed 3.7V and was still junk after 2 hits. I'll try mixing some Epsom salt in distilled water, top it off, and go from there to see if I can get that one back, it's sized for the Z06.
 
My F150 is due for inspection and I knew the rear brakes were gonna be close so I bought a set of pads and swapped them out today. The original pads have lasted 87k miles so OEM was my first choice but they cost about $75 after shipping from Rockauto which is a bit more than I wanted to pay. I've read a lot of good reviews on Powerstop Z36 brakes and they were about $30 cheaper, so that is what I went with. The old rear pads still had about another millimeter or two left on them, the rotors look perfect. There was one stuck slide pin with a torn boot but it hadn't affected the pad wear yet. I got it freed up for now and a new boot on the way.
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Were they quiet the whole time?

Mine had 52k and the rears started squealing on reverse. I bought motocraft ones because default and the old ones weren't that worn, maybe 70%?, but the new ones solved the squeal noise.
 
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Reactions: Texas82GP
Power stop is who I used for rear brake shoes on my dually. They're semi-metallic bonded shoes, the only ones I could find like that. They have a GG coefficient of friction and are super aggressive, too aggressive for an empty truck. I've been very impressed with them and it's left a good taste in my mouth for the brand.

Today I decided to try cooking some car batteries to try and breathe some life back into them.

View attachment 215902

The procedure was just like using a stick welder, but that charger has a 200A setting so I used that. First up was a group 75 Interstate side post, initial reading was 12.3V and failed the load test miserably. Zapped it for 3 5 minute sessions and it reeked like rotten eggs as I did it, so not sure if I can use it or not. It's a 750CCA battery and showed 800CCA after the 3rd hit and held it. Next up was an Advance Auto Parts battery in my 1500. It randomly became weak, but would still always start my truck so lived with it until now. 10.4V initial and failed the load test worse than the 1st. Was showing near 1000 CCA after the first hit and just over after the second hit so I put it back in the truck. It's like new. The 3rd battery showed 3.7V and was still junk after 2 hits. I'll try mixing some Epsom salt in distilled water, top it off, and go from there to see if I can get that one back, it's sized for the Z06.
I was told a long time ago never put a battery on concrete..
 
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