Huh. Interesting. Did not see any button or drop down for that on my check out page and they were not part of the list of approved payment providers
Nick
Nick
What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2023]
- Thread starter Wraith
- Start date
Maybe they don't deal with international payments through PayPal because of the extra processing time?
Umm, could be. They were very prompt to respond in connection with the order processing. Should have a shipped notice in the in mail bin this AM.
Nick
Nick
I got up on the roof of that enclosed trailer I picked up a few months back. It's a lot more solid than I thought it was and after I scraped off the old sealant the screws for the broken roof vents came right out. I used my cordless heat gun and a puddy knife to clean it up and installed new metal vents so they hopefully last longer than the plastic. Now that no water is coming in the top I can do some work to the inside. Unfortunately that work will have to wait because this weekend I'm putting a car in it.
It belonged to a landscaper before so I'm hoping by keeping out the water and cleaning the inside I can get rid of the smell.
Nicest part about me moving out of the building is all my stuff will be at home or work and I don't have to work on anyone's stuff but mine so I might start getting things done again.
It belonged to a landscaper before so I'm hoping by keeping out the water and cleaning the inside I can get rid of the smell.
Nicest part about me moving out of the building is all my stuff will be at home or work and I don't have to work on anyone's stuff but mine so I might start getting things done again.
Tinted windows for the 1500.
A $22 pull and pay score from May. Also ran the wires for the mirror blinkers. Need to clean the door panels tomorrow prior to reinstall.
A $22 pull and pay score from May. Also ran the wires for the mirror blinkers. Need to clean the door panels tomorrow prior to reinstall.
Ordered up some new hoops for the truck thanks to that carriage bolt. $125 each for some 60K off Wally World. I really miss those 4 for $*** for any size at Pep Boys.
So, with the installation of the refurbished front bumper, I had thought that all I had left to do was to feather some damaged paint on the front driver's side fender eyebrow and go through the set of steps prerequisite to repainting it.
Yeah, right.......................................................
So what you are seeing here is the first two of three patch panels that I had to fabricate to repair the inner shoulder of the fender. As it turned out, when I went to strip the fender of its rust, the whole eyebrow from around the 9 oclock position up to around 12 oclock literally disintegrated as well. With that gone, I could see that the rust had eaten away the connection between the fender's infrastucture as far in as the ears that accept the bolts that marry the inner fender well to the fender proper.
The three basic choices were, almost as always, do nothing, repair the damage, or replace the entire fender assembly, both innie and outie. Option three has two sub choices; new or used. Used is available to me but three weeks before it can be acquired and new is around 200 $$$CAD.
So I went with a hybrid. On an immediate basis, due to time and budget, repair what could be repaired. At the same time, put in a work order for the replacement fender at the yard, with the caveat that no one would know for sure if it was useable until it was removed. I may end up out in the daisies doing a lot of the initial bolt removal to facilitate that process myself. You pretty much have to remove the whole front fascia to gain access to the front bolts; fortunately the donor has had this already done to it.
Apres a little time spent dressing and surfacing down all the tacks and plug welds and seams. If it still seems to look a little rough and unfinished, well that is where I elected to leave it. Remember that this is an inner surface and the only way it will ever be scrutinized by the eyes of the beholder again is if I elect to re-open this can of worms and go for a total eyebrow replacement. That is not an economical course of action. as it would require the fender to be dismounted and put on the welding bench for some serious surgery that I have no enthusiasm for performing.
Finally, just a mock up of the outer eyebrow. It still needs some shaping and the pie cuts that had to be made to tweak the curves have to be fixed by tacks and then filled prior to the final install. As it presently sits what I would get is a lap joint along the perimeter. My alternative is to butt weld the entire seam and to that end I plan to scribe the resident body metal to see what more needs to be removed. My concern is that the cancer extends further and deeper into the eyebrow that is currently exposed. Too thin a recipient edge or surface and all you get is blowout.
While not posted at this point, the inner surfaces have already been given three or four heavy coats of antirust black. That is being allowed to dry for the day before the outer panel gets set in place.
The current temperature locally is somewhere between the middle 80's and low 90's with a high humidex. As a personal precaution my Shop time is being limited to 2-3 hours max, mainly because, after the first hour, it is raining so bad inside my clothes that I am soaked to the skin and have to frequently quit for a minute to go find a towel. All the water on the floor yesterday wasn't from the sanding lubricant, it was from me. I have experienced sun stroke, and even under cover of a garage, overheating is still possible. I have no desire to spend a day in emerg while they pump me full of electrolytes to replace what I lost due to personal negligence.
Nick
Yeah, right.......................................................
So what you are seeing here is the first two of three patch panels that I had to fabricate to repair the inner shoulder of the fender. As it turned out, when I went to strip the fender of its rust, the whole eyebrow from around the 9 oclock position up to around 12 oclock literally disintegrated as well. With that gone, I could see that the rust had eaten away the connection between the fender's infrastucture as far in as the ears that accept the bolts that marry the inner fender well to the fender proper.
The three basic choices were, almost as always, do nothing, repair the damage, or replace the entire fender assembly, both innie and outie. Option three has two sub choices; new or used. Used is available to me but three weeks before it can be acquired and new is around 200 $$$CAD.
So I went with a hybrid. On an immediate basis, due to time and budget, repair what could be repaired. At the same time, put in a work order for the replacement fender at the yard, with the caveat that no one would know for sure if it was useable until it was removed. I may end up out in the daisies doing a lot of the initial bolt removal to facilitate that process myself. You pretty much have to remove the whole front fascia to gain access to the front bolts; fortunately the donor has had this already done to it.
Apres a little time spent dressing and surfacing down all the tacks and plug welds and seams. If it still seems to look a little rough and unfinished, well that is where I elected to leave it. Remember that this is an inner surface and the only way it will ever be scrutinized by the eyes of the beholder again is if I elect to re-open this can of worms and go for a total eyebrow replacement. That is not an economical course of action. as it would require the fender to be dismounted and put on the welding bench for some serious surgery that I have no enthusiasm for performing.
Finally, just a mock up of the outer eyebrow. It still needs some shaping and the pie cuts that had to be made to tweak the curves have to be fixed by tacks and then filled prior to the final install. As it presently sits what I would get is a lap joint along the perimeter. My alternative is to butt weld the entire seam and to that end I plan to scribe the resident body metal to see what more needs to be removed. My concern is that the cancer extends further and deeper into the eyebrow that is currently exposed. Too thin a recipient edge or surface and all you get is blowout.
While not posted at this point, the inner surfaces have already been given three or four heavy coats of antirust black. That is being allowed to dry for the day before the outer panel gets set in place.
The current temperature locally is somewhere between the middle 80's and low 90's with a high humidex. As a personal precaution my Shop time is being limited to 2-3 hours max, mainly because, after the first hour, it is raining so bad inside my clothes that I am soaked to the skin and have to frequently quit for a minute to go find a towel. All the water on the floor yesterday wasn't from the sanding lubricant, it was from me. I have experienced sun stroke, and even under cover of a garage, overheating is still possible. I have no desire to spend a day in emerg while they pump me full of electrolytes to replace what I lost due to personal negligence.
Nick
Replaced the dishwasher in my house (the machine not the woman, she's good), plastic parts on the inside started breaking and it's been in here for a while so time to update.
Got into my truck to figure out the security light issue. It's the PASS 3 System, has a transponder in the key that sends a resistance signal through the key switch to the BCM. It sends this signal when you turn the key to start and holds it until you shut it off.
Cut the yellow and probe the orange out, that's the circuit through the key switch.
Pulled Fuel Pump and Starter Relays, turned it to Run and it pegged right about 9k Ohms every time. Did it 10 times. Here is with key off so it was noticeable.
Install 9k Resistor on that yellow wire and see what it does, goal is to turn this damn light off.
Which if I'm reading that value from the key then the BCM should be seeing it also. This is the known VATS Bypass procedure so maybe one of them wires broke to the BCM, or something in it went bad. I'll pop a resistor in there and see what happens.
Got into my truck to figure out the security light issue. It's the PASS 3 System, has a transponder in the key that sends a resistance signal through the key switch to the BCM. It sends this signal when you turn the key to start and holds it until you shut it off.
Cut the yellow and probe the orange out, that's the circuit through the key switch.
Pulled Fuel Pump and Starter Relays, turned it to Run and it pegged right about 9k Ohms every time. Did it 10 times. Here is with key off so it was noticeable.
Install 9k Resistor on that yellow wire and see what it does, goal is to turn this damn light off.
Which if I'm reading that value from the key then the BCM should be seeing it also. This is the known VATS Bypass procedure so maybe one of them wires broke to the BCM, or something in it went bad. I'll pop a resistor in there and see what happens.
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I bought these wheels to use as rollers. (Not my car, just the one they came off of.)
They hold air, and, they ended up costing me the spanking total of $75, plus got a set of nothing great lug nuts.
I'd sold the set off the rottecarlo ss for $250, so, I figure they'll be trade bait when I dont need them. However, some things are in the works over the next 4 weeks that have me inclined to think I will, indeed, need them.
They hold air, and, they ended up costing me the spanking total of $75, plus got a set of nothing great lug nuts.
I'd sold the set off the rottecarlo ss for $250, so, I figure they'll be trade bait when I dont need them. However, some things are in the works over the next 4 weeks that have me inclined to think I will, indeed, need them.
Went to Walmart and found this beefy 25" made-in-USA pry bar with strike cap for $11. I think that's hard to beat.
Then came home and gave the truck a thorough wash.
Then came home and gave the truck a thorough wash.
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