I assume it's like 93 octane gas then. East of the Mississippi, plus Texas, plus something else. At least per a discussion with some Texicans at the track this past summer.
What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2023]
- Thread starter Wraith
- Start date
I assume it's like 93 octane gas then. East of the Mississippi, plus Texas, plus something else. At least per a discussion with some Texicans at the track this past summer.
We have 93 here. It has ethanol in it though. Ethanol free fuel is available in counties outside the greater Houston metro area though. Most ethanol free gas in Texas is 87 octane but 90, 91, and even 93 are available in certain locations.
Won't go super into depth here to waste your time, but tried to bake my tails for the Blazer so I could make up my own custom LED setup for it. Did not go as planned...... debating on what the next step will be. Might try to find someone who can make a clear lens for it, but was trying to avoid that cause I feel like it will be much more expensive than it needs to be
Oil change and tire rotation on the Little Honda that Could..
62° out. I'll take it.
62° out. I'll take it.
Got off work last night and started at about 8pm and spent 4 hours draining and dropping the FULL fuel tank on my grandpa's very crusty '90 k1500 stepside to replace the pump and sending unit.
My grandpa bought it around 2010, and used it quite often until he got a Sonoma that was easier to get in and out of and got better mpg. Last time it was extensively driven was when my mother moved out of her place around 2018 and we used it to haul the appliances to a storage unit. My grandpa passed in 2018 and being nearly 70 my grandma can't get in and out of the truck easily. It's basically been a static display for the last 5 years with occasional outings, namely to plow her own and her neighbors driveways. She periodically started it, had my cousin do a tuneup on it, but after the battery went dead, fuel pump died and the rotten brake lines gave out one winter she hasn't been able to do anything with it. She wants it gone but wanted to keep it in the family. Everyone in my family is kind of clamoring for it, but she decided I should have it, as I'm really the only one capable enough to actually fix a vehicle besides basic stuff like oil changes.
The tires are from 2006 and don't hold air, the u bolts are rusted off and the u joints are bone dry, so there's still some stuff I need to do to make it roadworthy, but hey. Not a bad rig for $1000.
Edit while writing: found the truck on google earth lol, but the 2nd pic is my plans for it.
My grandpa bought it around 2010, and used it quite often until he got a Sonoma that was easier to get in and out of and got better mpg. Last time it was extensively driven was when my mother moved out of her place around 2018 and we used it to haul the appliances to a storage unit. My grandpa passed in 2018 and being nearly 70 my grandma can't get in and out of the truck easily. It's basically been a static display for the last 5 years with occasional outings, namely to plow her own and her neighbors driveways. She periodically started it, had my cousin do a tuneup on it, but after the battery went dead, fuel pump died and the rotten brake lines gave out one winter she hasn't been able to do anything with it. She wants it gone but wanted to keep it in the family. Everyone in my family is kind of clamoring for it, but she decided I should have it, as I'm really the only one capable enough to actually fix a vehicle besides basic stuff like oil changes.
The tires are from 2006 and don't hold air, the u bolts are rusted off and the u joints are bone dry, so there's still some stuff I need to do to make it roadworthy, but hey. Not a bad rig for $1000.
Edit while writing: found the truck on google earth lol, but the 2nd pic is my plans for it.
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Messed with the $17 Pioneer DEH-23UB from the last yard trip to see if it worked &...
CD player, AUX port, tuner all good. USB doesn't support my phone but it does support my old Walkman MP3 player. Now figure out if I'll keep it in reserve with the fixed Delco CD player & the Delco cassette player or pass it on. Could become the garage radio.
CD player, AUX port, tuner all good. USB doesn't support my phone but it does support my old Walkman MP3 player. Now figure out if I'll keep it in reserve with the fixed Delco CD player & the Delco cassette player or pass it on. Could become the garage radio.
It was my project to start with, but then it became GM dealer's project.
Last week, my otherwise dependable 2020 GMC Sierra Denali Ultimate got all UN-Ultimate on me in a hurry. 4550 miles on it, and it's already breaking. I got in the back of the truck to get something out of the underseat box and I saw streaks where water was. Dang, got to get that fixed. Sort of a common problem with these 2014-up Sierra/Silverado trucks with sliding rear glass. The frame apparently decides it will crack and starts to seep. I blasted it with water back there and sure enough, water seeped in. Grrr.
But THEN, the next day, I go to my dentist appointment, get done there, then my remote didn't work in the parking lot. Had to open the door with the manual key, then truck saw no remotes. Placed it in the dead battery remote location and it started right up. Got home, checked the wife's fob, and it too, didn't work. Nothing. First thing to do is replace batteries. 2 years old, so it COULD be that. But....NOPE. Still didn't work. Did the 30 minute process to reprogram the keys. TWICE. Still didn't work either time. One time, the truck spit up a message on the DIC that "theft may be in progress". WTF? Truck would start if the fob was in the dead battery spot, but otherwise, nothing. Spent another hour and a half tracing down every possible RKE or BCM fuse. Luckily I have some schematics for the wiring system. But they're kind of advanced which leaves me less than fully capable. I hate electrical junk. Made an appointment to take the truck in last Friday.
Gets even better- wake up, shower and get ready to go- just for the helluvit, punched one of the fob keys. It unlocked!!! Messed with all the functions and they all worked. Just great. If the dealer can't replicate it, they won't fix it. Wife followed me on the way in...she calls on the cell and says "you know you have no taillights, right?" Um, no. But I do now. Brake lights and turn signals work. Everything is good but no tails/running lamps in the back. BCM controls those too. Auto/manual light switch position didn't matter. Still no tails.
So they've had the truck since Friday. I stopped in today to see what progress, if any. The GM rear window repair kit comes in tomorrow along with some rear cab valance nuts, and they're chasing down the circuits on the tails. They said the circuit is on the same pathway as the brake lights. I have brake lights, but no taillights. WTF? So they're still troubleshooting (sitting around drinking coffee). And the service manager said the RKE module is on back order, but it's ordered. Fobs are still working, but they decided to put in a new module.
Apparently, the rear window leak fix now (it used to be remove rear glass and reseal with urethane sealer) a "kit" of some sort of pourable sealer deal where you take off the rear valance bolts to get better access to the top of the window channel and fill the channel with sealer up to the top edge of the frame. The nuts are suposedly one time use deals, and that's one of the things they're waiting on and should be here tomorrow. The fugged up part of it is the way the window is situated. The top of the frame forms a "moat" below the valance, where water/dirt/crap, whatever gets in there and builds up. Sometimes the polymer frame cracks and starts to allow water in through those cracks, bypassing the sealer and entering the cab. The window is still sealed, but the plastic frame between the urethane and glass now has a tiny channel crack in it. So what the filler sealer is supposed to do is fill that channel up to the top of the frame (about 1/4" or so) so that water drains away from the glass/frame and dirt/debris doesn't collect in there. Sometimes they claim ICE forms and tries to pry the frame away from the seal cracking the plastic frame. The sealer supposedly fixes the problem.
It's warranty work, but still. If they can fix the taillights, great. They seal the window and I can get my truck back and they'll let me know whenever the RKE module comes in and they'll replace it.
Fingers crossed. I hate letting other people work on my sh*t but I don't have much of a choice here.
Last week, my otherwise dependable 2020 GMC Sierra Denali Ultimate got all UN-Ultimate on me in a hurry. 4550 miles on it, and it's already breaking. I got in the back of the truck to get something out of the underseat box and I saw streaks where water was. Dang, got to get that fixed. Sort of a common problem with these 2014-up Sierra/Silverado trucks with sliding rear glass. The frame apparently decides it will crack and starts to seep. I blasted it with water back there and sure enough, water seeped in. Grrr.
But THEN, the next day, I go to my dentist appointment, get done there, then my remote didn't work in the parking lot. Had to open the door with the manual key, then truck saw no remotes. Placed it in the dead battery remote location and it started right up. Got home, checked the wife's fob, and it too, didn't work. Nothing. First thing to do is replace batteries. 2 years old, so it COULD be that. But....NOPE. Still didn't work. Did the 30 minute process to reprogram the keys. TWICE. Still didn't work either time. One time, the truck spit up a message on the DIC that "theft may be in progress". WTF? Truck would start if the fob was in the dead battery spot, but otherwise, nothing. Spent another hour and a half tracing down every possible RKE or BCM fuse. Luckily I have some schematics for the wiring system. But they're kind of advanced which leaves me less than fully capable. I hate electrical junk. Made an appointment to take the truck in last Friday.
Gets even better- wake up, shower and get ready to go- just for the helluvit, punched one of the fob keys. It unlocked!!! Messed with all the functions and they all worked. Just great. If the dealer can't replicate it, they won't fix it. Wife followed me on the way in...she calls on the cell and says "you know you have no taillights, right?" Um, no. But I do now. Brake lights and turn signals work. Everything is good but no tails/running lamps in the back. BCM controls those too. Auto/manual light switch position didn't matter. Still no tails.
So they've had the truck since Friday. I stopped in today to see what progress, if any. The GM rear window repair kit comes in tomorrow along with some rear cab valance nuts, and they're chasing down the circuits on the tails. They said the circuit is on the same pathway as the brake lights. I have brake lights, but no taillights. WTF? So they're still troubleshooting (sitting around drinking coffee). And the service manager said the RKE module is on back order, but it's ordered. Fobs are still working, but they decided to put in a new module.
Apparently, the rear window leak fix now (it used to be remove rear glass and reseal with urethane sealer) a "kit" of some sort of pourable sealer deal where you take off the rear valance bolts to get better access to the top of the window channel and fill the channel with sealer up to the top edge of the frame. The nuts are suposedly one time use deals, and that's one of the things they're waiting on and should be here tomorrow. The fugged up part of it is the way the window is situated. The top of the frame forms a "moat" below the valance, where water/dirt/crap, whatever gets in there and builds up. Sometimes the polymer frame cracks and starts to allow water in through those cracks, bypassing the sealer and entering the cab. The window is still sealed, but the plastic frame between the urethane and glass now has a tiny channel crack in it. So what the filler sealer is supposed to do is fill that channel up to the top of the frame (about 1/4" or so) so that water drains away from the glass/frame and dirt/debris doesn't collect in there. Sometimes they claim ICE forms and tries to pry the frame away from the seal cracking the plastic frame. The sealer supposedly fixes the problem.
It's warranty work, but still. If they can fix the taillights, great. They seal the window and I can get my truck back and they'll let me know whenever the RKE module comes in and they'll replace it.
Fingers crossed. I hate letting other people work on my sh*t but I don't have much of a choice here.
The convertible top hydraulic cylinders are back together and working. No leaks. So two $.13 O-rings did the trick instead of spending $300 on new ones. Works for me. Then I bled the system on the bench and found the pump weeping ATF. I found a rebuild kit so took the reservoir off, changed a couple of O-rings, and tried again. No leaks! I ran the rams up and down and no bubbles in the lines. After a few hours I saw weeping from the pump again. This time it looks like the pump motor may be leaking internally. So back to the drawing board. Another rainy day project.
I've got less money in my 8.1 than he's got miles on the denali.... guess which one ain't broke yet
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