Fturd is sitting at Dads place back home.
if I still have a car running on the road at that time I think it sounds like fun.
if I still have a car running on the road at that time I think it sounds like fun.
BUILD THREAD 86 GP 2+2~Blown 6.0
- Thread starter 81cutlass
- Start date
I had to order some speedo and trans TC LU parts for the cutlass so I finally spent money on on the roof rail weatherstrip for this. I gotta get the door seals still but my room mate is going to pull the motor on his fiero in a month and wanted weatherstrip in this so it can sit outside.
Anyways, the options are soffseal or metro since GM NOS stuff is stupid expensive and I really doubt people going straight to "its junk" conclusion.
Ended up going it metro since they are generally reviewed as being better and from MN so thats cool.
I only got the drivers side in, goes into the grooves super easy. Had to adjust the window (obviously, I think most of the people think you can take a wore out GM 30 year old piece of rubber and put the replacement stuff in and it fits flawlessly) but overall its decent. Door closes tough but the door striker is shot (plastic bit in between bushing and ID) so Im blaming it on that right now. Seal fits straight, door just closes bad. There is some wiring gremlins like the passenger switch not working at all, wires being very loose on the drivers window switch, drivers switch occasionally works and only lets the passenger go down, not up, blows the circuit otherwise.
Probably piddle around with wiring tomorrow and get the drivers striker replaced and get passenger seal in.
Anyways, the options are soffseal or metro since GM NOS stuff is stupid expensive and I really doubt people going straight to "its junk" conclusion.
Ended up going it metro since they are generally reviewed as being better and from MN so thats cool.
I only got the drivers side in, goes into the grooves super easy. Had to adjust the window (obviously, I think most of the people think you can take a wore out GM 30 year old piece of rubber and put the replacement stuff in and it fits flawlessly) but overall its decent. Door closes tough but the door striker is shot (plastic bit in between bushing and ID) so Im blaming it on that right now. Seal fits straight, door just closes bad. There is some wiring gremlins like the passenger switch not working at all, wires being very loose on the drivers window switch, drivers switch occasionally works and only lets the passenger go down, not up, blows the circuit otherwise.
Probably piddle around with wiring tomorrow and get the drivers striker replaced and get passenger seal in.
Does the door shut the same with the window rolled down? That would prove your theory that the door shutting hard has nothing to do with the new rubber.
The new window seals have been in there a few weeks and the doors close a little tougher than the 35yr old factory seals in my cutlass but they seal nice and slide ok after I applied some silicone spray. Im happy for as cheap as they were.
I was going to build the th400 i picked up for the car until I found a t56 but I got lucky cruising CL and found a lt1 t56 for a good price. Instead of blowing a month or two getting the th400 in and a thousand bucks im just going to bypass that step and go straight to the t56 like I wanted in the first place. Next task is figure out what clutch and flywheel setup I need to get the lt1 t56 onto the long crank style 6.0. I think an NV4500 flywheel and some type of standard clutch with a hydro conversion throw out bearing will do it but I don't know yet.
And my roomate decided he wanted to l67 swap his fiero so I'm a bit slower at making progress.
I was going to build the th400 i picked up for the car until I found a t56 but I got lucky cruising CL and found a lt1 t56 for a good price. Instead of blowing a month or two getting the th400 in and a thousand bucks im just going to bypass that step and go straight to the t56 like I wanted in the first place. Next task is figure out what clutch and flywheel setup I need to get the lt1 t56 onto the long crank style 6.0. I think an NV4500 flywheel and some type of standard clutch with a hydro conversion throw out bearing will do it but I don't know yet.
And my roomate decided he wanted to l67 swap his fiero so I'm a bit slower at making progress.
Well I helped my room mate get the engine out of the bonerville so I had some time today.
I had to take off the alt bracket/tensioner to free up some space under the hood to get it to close. Ended up taking my "filthy ferret" idler pulley bracket off and ovaling a hole to just slide that around. Not final but good enough to get power steering and battery charging.
And I decided to re-tackle the DBW junk. I had issues with not getting TPS signal after I gave up in May on DBW and went to DBC.
I found out that
1. A 00-01 DBW harness will not send a TPS signal to the ECM without the TAC module
2. A 00-01 DBW harness wont accept TPS signal with a DBC tune and TAC.
So i loaded a DBW tune and hooked everything up off the blower and the DBW worked with the engine running for the first time. I kept the modified DBC ford throttle body on the engine and it worked perfect. Engine ran like junk since the the MAF airflow and expected airflow calculated by the ECM was different. So I bolted the DBW throttle body on and it worked, on startup it runs about 2200RPM for about 5 seconds and slowly idles down so that seems normal. A few times i tapped the throttle pedal and the TB moved like it should. Idle would hang at 3000 rpm for 5 seconds or so but slowly idle down after I let go.
But then I didnt change anything and it doesn't work again. As usual the DBW works with the engine off. But this time when the engine is running it idles at 2200 or so (like it did above) for 5 seconds or so and then slowly idles down to 600. I tap the pedal and the throttle responds but then goes dead. Like usual it won't accept throttle pedal input. I can shut the key off and wait 15 seconds or so and it will work again like normal with the engine off but repeat the dead mode thing as soon as the engine starts.
So after finding out this harness won't accept TPS in DBC configuration it leaves me with 2 options
1. find someone in central IA that knows something about 00-01 DBW setups
2. Throw the DBW stuff on the shelf for a year and adapt a GM DBC TB onto the blower and build a 99-01 DBC harness for the engine. I wanted DBW for the cool factor of the big dual inlet TB an running cruise was super easy. Plus I dont have a IAC port on this TB so I would have had to go with a smaller GM one.
Probably going to ignore the car for a few weeks and make a decision later. I'm decently smart and resourceful at this kinda stuff but I have put everything I have into solving it and there are too many unknowns with the entirely unsupported 00-01 LS DBW world to actually troubleshoot it.
Hey, at least the hood closes and I get to hear cool whiney blower sounds.
I had to take off the alt bracket/tensioner to free up some space under the hood to get it to close. Ended up taking my "filthy ferret" idler pulley bracket off and ovaling a hole to just slide that around. Not final but good enough to get power steering and battery charging.
And I decided to re-tackle the DBW junk. I had issues with not getting TPS signal after I gave up in May on DBW and went to DBC.
I found out that
1. A 00-01 DBW harness will not send a TPS signal to the ECM without the TAC module
2. A 00-01 DBW harness wont accept TPS signal with a DBC tune and TAC.
So i loaded a DBW tune and hooked everything up off the blower and the DBW worked with the engine running for the first time. I kept the modified DBC ford throttle body on the engine and it worked perfect. Engine ran like junk since the the MAF airflow and expected airflow calculated by the ECM was different. So I bolted the DBW throttle body on and it worked, on startup it runs about 2200RPM for about 5 seconds and slowly idles down so that seems normal. A few times i tapped the throttle pedal and the TB moved like it should. Idle would hang at 3000 rpm for 5 seconds or so but slowly idle down after I let go.
But then I didnt change anything and it doesn't work again. As usual the DBW works with the engine off. But this time when the engine is running it idles at 2200 or so (like it did above) for 5 seconds or so and then slowly idles down to 600. I tap the pedal and the throttle responds but then goes dead. Like usual it won't accept throttle pedal input. I can shut the key off and wait 15 seconds or so and it will work again like normal with the engine off but repeat the dead mode thing as soon as the engine starts.
So after finding out this harness won't accept TPS in DBC configuration it leaves me with 2 options
1. find someone in central IA that knows something about 00-01 DBW setups
2. Throw the DBW stuff on the shelf for a year and adapt a GM DBC TB onto the blower and build a 99-01 DBC harness for the engine. I wanted DBW for the cool factor of the big dual inlet TB an running cruise was super easy. Plus I dont have a IAC port on this TB so I would have had to go with a smaller GM one.
Probably going to ignore the car for a few weeks and make a decision later. I'm decently smart and resourceful at this kinda stuff but I have put everything I have into solving it and there are too many unknowns with the entirely unsupported 00-01 LS DBW world to actually troubleshoot it.
Hey, at least the hood closes and I get to hear cool whiney blower sounds.
I've been following the thread and love your work! Have you contacted any wiring vendors with this issue? I'm sure they have run into it before and may have an answer. I've heard great things about www.wait4meperformance.com They do reprograms and rebuild your harness for your needs. Last I knew it $350 to remove whatever you want out of the pcm, and redo your harness.... Just a thought
I have tried emailing a few vendors but no response. I have HPtuners and the harness works, kinda lost to why it doesn't pedal haha. Today I tried putting some voltage to the cruise ports like the brake signal and putting in a fresh battery since I heard things get funny in the DBW world with old batteries and nothing.
I am really close to trailering the car a few hours to a place and telling them to figure it out. I am super against anybody doing anything on my stuff short of heavy dent pulling bodywork but im out of ideas. I might put a C5 DBW pedal on it as a last resort but I dont think that will actually do anything.
Oh the fun!
I am really close to trailering the car a few hours to a place and telling them to figure it out. I am super against anybody doing anything on my stuff short of heavy dent pulling bodywork but im out of ideas. I might put a C5 DBW pedal on it as a last resort but I dont think that will actually do anything.
Oh the fun!
Bad grounds will also create mysterious ECU problems.
You lucked out finding such a rare car that is complete but not a crime to modify.
The Pontiac G8 came with a 6.2L and a T6060. RockAuto lists a flywheel for it: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1963110&cc=1442794&jsn=665
Or you can pick up the complete clutch kit which includes the flywheel. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1403429&cc=1442794&jsn=675
Seems to also fit 98-02 Camaro, Corvette plus 2004 GTO. Here's the clutch slave cylinder: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6786272&cc=1442794&jsn=668
You lucked out finding such a rare car that is complete but not a crime to modify.
The Pontiac G8 came with a 6.2L and a T6060. RockAuto lists a flywheel for it: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1963110&cc=1442794&jsn=665
Or you can pick up the complete clutch kit which includes the flywheel. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1403429&cc=1442794&jsn=675
Seems to also fit 98-02 Camaro, Corvette plus 2004 GTO. Here's the clutch slave cylinder: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6786272&cc=1442794&jsn=668
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I was on CL and made an impulse buy....
$100! Tires are shot but its impossible to find 17's with the right bolt pattern. Chrome is shot and peely but again, hundred bucks! I needed at least 2 for my big brake kit I want to build and sell for G bodies so these were the right price. Not sold I really like them on it, the 18's are a bit big. I'll see what happens I guess.
17's front 18s rear
18s rear
17s rear
$100! Tires are shot but its impossible to find 17's with the right bolt pattern. Chrome is shot and peely but again, hundred bucks! I needed at least 2 for my big brake kit I want to build and sell for G bodies so these were the right price. Not sold I really like them on it, the 18's are a bit big. I'll see what happens I guess.
17's front 18s rear
18s rear
17s rear
