My room mate finally hauled his 88 GT into the garage to start the l67 swap. Basically just need an 88 GTA TA or Formula and it would be the late 80's greatest pontiacs.
BUILD THREAD 86 GP 2+2~Blown 6.0
- Thread starter 81cutlass
- Start date
don't throw in the towel on figuring it out yourself just yet, maybe the swap on the fiero will be the distraction you need for inspiration to strike!
on the rims: have you mounted them all the way on yet? I had picked up a set of c4 wheels awhile back, and they won't clear the hubs on the front, and also need a LOT of backspace adapter.... let us know how those do when you mount them up.
on the rims: have you mounted them all the way on yet? I had picked up a set of c4 wheels awhile back, and they won't clear the hubs on the front, and also need a LOT of backspace adapter.... let us know how those do when you mount them up.
Opie Knievel
Rum Fueled Midnight Mechanic and Moderator
Is your roommate doing a build thread on that Fiero on any forum? I love those cars. I'd like to see how the swap goes.
I recently saw an episode of 'Car Fix' where they are going to swap in a Northstar V8 into a Fiero.And my roomate decided he wanted to l67 swap his fiero so I'm a bit slower at making progress.
No he doesn't have any threads anywhere. Did help him pull the K out today.
In my world, Wohoo! The GP runs now!
I bought a GM LS DBW TB and built an adapter plate. Hood doesn't close now since the TB is so much taller but at least it works. I can really hear the blower whine, makes me happy. It is going to be a burn out machine, I am just idling out of the driveway and its already sqwacking tires with a quick blip of the throttle.
Next up fix the GIANT coolant leak coming from somewhere around the water pump and timing cover. Part of it looks like its coming from the seal, to the cover, some of it looks like the shaft seal. Part of its coming out of the rad hose elbow, frickin everwhere basically! Probably a decent rad and cooling fans after that.
And trans stuff. I think I found out what I need to do to get the lt1 t56 behind the long crank 6.0. I need an Ls t56 bell housing since I can't get the 168 tooth LS flywheel into an LT1 153 tooth bell. I also need to get an NV4500 6.0 flywheel. Standard LS1 clutch and a mcleod or preferably Weir hydro TOB since I dont have the provisions for an LT1 pull style external slave.
In my world, Wohoo! The GP runs now!
I bought a GM LS DBW TB and built an adapter plate. Hood doesn't close now since the TB is so much taller but at least it works. I can really hear the blower whine, makes me happy. It is going to be a burn out machine, I am just idling out of the driveway and its already sqwacking tires with a quick blip of the throttle.
Next up fix the GIANT coolant leak coming from somewhere around the water pump and timing cover. Part of it looks like its coming from the seal, to the cover, some of it looks like the shaft seal. Part of its coming out of the rad hose elbow, frickin everwhere basically! Probably a decent rad and cooling fans after that.
And trans stuff. I think I found out what I need to do to get the lt1 t56 behind the long crank 6.0. I need an Ls t56 bell housing since I can't get the 168 tooth LS flywheel into an LT1 153 tooth bell. I also need to get an NV4500 6.0 flywheel. Standard LS1 clutch and a mcleod or preferably Weir hydro TOB since I dont have the provisions for an LT1 pull style external slave.
Very cool build. There is no flywheel for the long crank LS engines. Maybe something like a small Dia. twin disc setup that mounts to a flex plate as a workaround.
Thats news to me. I just bought one out of a salvage yard and its in the post office somewhere between Oregon and Iowa. a 99-00 6.0 does have a unique nv4500 flywheel part number that is entirely out of production and out of stock through GM. Unless they used a short crank and standard short crank flywheel it would have the same part number as a 01+ NV4500 6.0 or 4.8.
Hopefully it shows up tomorrow and I can test fit it.
Pulled the 200r out after work. Man thats dirty! And got the flywheel today so that made it an easy choice.
Clutch setup (to be finalized) Basically, it goes 99-00 lq4 NV 4500 flywheel, part number 12561758 or Mcleod 460537 (not confirmed by me), LS1 t56 clutch and pressure plate which bolts right up to the NV4500 flywheel, LT1 t56 and bellhousing, and a mcleod or weir hydro slave cyl.
An lt1 153 tooth t56 bell wont fit onto a LS 168 tooth bell. The lower 1/3 of the starter gear hits the bottom of the bell.
Cut the bottom 1/3 off between the starter pocket and former LT style pull clutch slave pocket. About 1.75 inches back from the mounting flange.
Clutch setup (to be finalized) Basically, it goes 99-00 lq4 NV 4500 flywheel, part number 12561758 or Mcleod 460537 (not confirmed by me), LS1 t56 clutch and pressure plate which bolts right up to the NV4500 flywheel, LT1 t56 and bellhousing, and a mcleod or weir hydro slave cyl.
An lt1 153 tooth t56 bell wont fit onto a LS 168 tooth bell. The lower 1/3 of the starter gear hits the bottom of the bell.
Cut the bottom 1/3 off between the starter pocket and former LT style pull clutch slave pocket. About 1.75 inches back from the mounting flange.
Yeah I measured and have 1.11". A t5 aftermarket hyrdo TOB one is 1.52 compressed. I need to find .5" extra space between the pressureplate and front plate of the trans. I have the pilot bearing coming that I am going to test fit. Probably buy that TOB and chop it apart to find as much length as I can. Then comes spacing the trans back. If I can find .25 inch on the TOB thats only .25 spaced back.
I did fit the trans in yesterday, Cut the hole in the floor for the shifter and it looks like it fits ok. Had to hammer the spot on the floor in the left of the shifter for the reverse lockout solenoid. I removed the little rubber snubber on the back of the case. Without completely chopping out the floor the tailshaft moves down about 1 inch, that means 1.1 or so degrees down. Its not just the shiter its the whole middle upper portion of the trans.
In my research U joints are designed for like 3000 hours which is 180,000 miles of life. The angle technically does 'weaken' the U joint and reduce the life. How much im not sure. But even if I have to replace U joints every 50,000 miles no biggy. Wont get that many miles on it anyways.
Mcleod sells a 1400-22 hydro TOB conversion kit for these in lt1 t56 camaros, i really dont want to buy it since they are widely recorded as being piles of crap and at almost $400 nope.
I did fit the trans in yesterday, Cut the hole in the floor for the shifter and it looks like it fits ok. Had to hammer the spot on the floor in the left of the shifter for the reverse lockout solenoid. I removed the little rubber snubber on the back of the case. Without completely chopping out the floor the tailshaft moves down about 1 inch, that means 1.1 or so degrees down. Its not just the shiter its the whole middle upper portion of the trans.
In my research U joints are designed for like 3000 hours which is 180,000 miles of life. The angle technically does 'weaken' the U joint and reduce the life. How much im not sure. But even if I have to replace U joints every 50,000 miles no biggy. Wont get that many miles on it anyways.
Mcleod sells a 1400-22 hydro TOB conversion kit for these in lt1 t56 camaros, i really dont want to buy it since they are widely recorded as being piles of crap and at almost $400 nope.
