BUILD THREAD 87 Cutlass EFI build: 9/13/23..NEW STUFF!

[Injectedcutty]

Just a thought -- you can mount a Ford solenoid in that wheel well beside the battery. It'll make it safer running a wire all the way to the front to reach the starter.

I've been thinking about that actually. My neighbor builds racecars and he wondered why I didn't have one already. I might pick one up next week since everything is unhooked right now.
Speaking of, got the battery box removed, and the battery mocked up in the tire well. Need to tweak some things, but made decent progress today considering I went for a couple hour cruise too!

 

[Northernregal]

You don't need a solenoid, a single 100 amp fuse or resetable breaker is a better choice. Kenworth uses a single 150 amp breaker on the ground side of their batteries in the newer T800's, you will never use the same amount of current that a 15L CAT diesel uses. Plus you will know you have a cable issue if the breaker/fuse pops.

 

[Injectedcutty]

You don't need a solenoid, a single 100 amp fuse or resetable breaker is a better choice. Kenworth uses a single 150 amp breaker on the ground side of their batteries in the newer T800's, you will never use the same amount of current that a 15L CAT diesel uses. Plus you will know you have a cable issue if the breaker/fuse pops.

Already have that 150amp unit so I'll be gold then.

 

[Kiko]

You don't need a solenoid, a single 100 amp fuse or resetable breaker is a better choice.

True, but I'd rather have an electrically "dead" wire running along the full length of the car especially since that circuit is only used during startup -- one less wire to worry about. But that's just me...

FYI, here's a schematic showing part of my power distribution circuit. The 200A fuse protects the battery power feed to the fuse panel.

 

[Northernregal]

True, but I'd rather have an electrically "dead" wire running along the full length of the car especially since that circuit is only used during startup -- one less wire to worry about. But that's just me...

FYI, here's a schematic showing part of my power distribution circuit. The 200A fuse protects the battery power feed to the fuse panel.

View attachment 156413

How do you charge the battery?

 

[565bbchevy]

True, but I'd rather have an electrically "dead" wire running along the full length of the car especially since that circuit is only used during startup -- one less wire to worry about. But that's just me...

FYI, here's a schematic showing part of my power distribution circuit. The 200A fuse protects the battery power feed to the fuse panel.

View attachment 156413

If the battery and solenoid are in the trunk isn't the fused 1/0 running the length of the car to the front to meet the fuse panel still going to be hot?

 

[Kiko]

How do you charge the battery?

Northernregal:
I've installed a plug for my Ctek charger. (Note: Since I drive only of non-rainy days -- no wiper system -- and store the vehicle during are excessively long winter here in Ottawa 😢 , I've switched batteries from Red Top to Yellow Top).

If the battery and solenoid are in the trunk isn't the fused 1/0 running the length of the car to the front to meet the fuse panel still going to be hot?

565bbchevy:
Yes, you're correct, but there's no way around that. However, it's now only one live wire instead of two -- 50% reduction to "Murphy's" chances! 😉


As noted on my schematic, I installed two battery cut-out switches -- one specifically for the stereo system (and capacitor) and the other takes care of the whole car. I find this very practical and useful when working on the car. All I have to do is turn that switch and then not worry abount getting zapped when I "wrench". It's also a very inexpensive and easy mod which (IMHO) provides much benefit.

 

[565bbchevy]

Yes, you're correct, but there's no way around that. However, it's now only one live wire instead of two -- 50% reduction to "Murphy's" chances!

You obviously have a very nice set up, but on mine I have my 1/0 coming from the trunk to my solenoid which is mounted on my heater case up front and my factory fusible links go to the hot side of the solenoid and a 1/0 maybe 3' long goes down to the starter so maybe I am not understanding the advantage of the solenoid in the trunk since I still only have one hot wire running the length of the car.
I would guess you would also need a trigger wire from the ignition to go back to the trunk mounted solenoid to start the car.

 

[Kiko]

Agreed -- that works as well. That's how I wired my car initially before the "big mod". I just wanted to clean up my engine bay -- purely aesthetics and a personal choice.

 

[Injectedcutty]

Northernregal:
I've installed a plug for my Ctek charger. (Note: Since I drive only of non-rainy days -- no wiper system -- and store the vehicle during are excessively long winter here in Ottawa 😢 , I've switched batteries from Red Top to Yellow Top).

View attachment 156420

View attachment 156421

View attachment 156422




565bbchevy:
Yes, you're correct, but there's no way around that. However, it's now only one live wire instead of two -- 50% reduction to "Murphy's" chances! 😉


As noted on my schematic, I installed two battery cut-out switches -- one specifically for the stereo system (and capacitor) and the other takes care of the whole car. I find this very practical and useful when working on the car. All I have to do is turn that switch and then not worry abount getting zapped when I "wrench". It's also a very inexpensive and easy mod which (IMHO) provides much benefit.

View attachment 156423

View attachment 156424

I like your charging idea. I plan on stopping by the speed shop this coming week and getting a pair of charging lugs. Mount them in the same area that way I can easily trickle charge it.